Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks! And I agree 100%, I upgraded my E-Maxx until it was 100% aftermarket, not a single 3906 E-Maxx stock piece left on it, and it still broke every time I ran it.

And the dimensions are... (from towerhobbies)


Length: 22" (559mm)(bumper to bumper)
Width: 17.25" (438mm)(axle end to axle end)
Height: 10.75" (273mm)
Wheelbase: 14.5" (368mm)
Ground Clearance: 3.5" (89mm)

And it weighs a full pound less than my E-Maxx at 12 pounds 2 ounces. Not bad considering it's bigger than the E-Maxx.



EDIT: Does anyone know if I would have bad interference issues if I put the receiver up front in front of the motor? I am running 2.4GHz, but I am somewhat paranoid... just want to make sure it will probably be alright before I go ahead and try it.

I use Spektrum in my 3905 E-maxx, the rx is just in front of the motor, stock location in front of the gear cover. I'm running a brushless setup and have no interference or range problems

I went ahead and tried it, no issues and it looks much better!

Anyway, I ran it again today, was excellent! I got lots of video clips as well so I'll probably have a video uploaded to youtube and posted sometime tomorrow. Performs great though, jumps well from a properly made jump, but the jump I have in my bashing area has a good side and a bad side, off the bad size it wants to nose dive horribly and wont recover and ends up using the front bumper as a shovel when it lands, but off the good side it flies nice and level and lands on all fours with a soft thud and keeps on truckin'. :mdr: Anyway, expect a video sometime tomorrow, probably in the evening.

(I'm sure you know this but I'm throwing it out there just in case)

hitting the throttle in air will bring the nose up, and hitting the brakes will make it nose down. It's due to the gyroscopic effect of the high mass tires on a MT, and is quite extreme with brushless. (thats how people get front flips, and double backflips and what not)

Maybe it's just a small jump on the "bad side" and you don't have time to correct, but using the throttle/brake in the air can save almost any off kilter jump. Almost.............

Sorry if you knew this, but i didn't know until I read it. Looking forward to the vids!!

Yep, I race so I know alot about air control. It usually has the nose down flight attitude off the "bad side" of the jump when I hit it going full throttle and I cant give it anymore throttle to make it rotate quickly enough. If I hit the jump at about 5/8 to 3/4 throttle, then I can control it a bit better but the bad side of the jump seems to kick the back end up really far and it's too extreme to recover from. No biggie really, a bit of suspension tweaking (adding some more rear preload or thicker rear shock oil) would probably help, or not hitting the jump at full throttle... :mdr:

I'm still debating if I should include all of the crashes and bad clips in my video..... maybe a bloopers video, too? :oops:

Just finished clipping the video together and such, so I will be uploading it soon. I'll keep it a surprise though, no hints about any cool clips in the video.... :mdr:

Video!!!

Enjoy

And remember, it is undergeared, so don't expect any land speed records in the video, but its fast enough to get some great air off a somewhat small jump. :mdr:

<object height="344" width="425">


<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/nYYltzo6p8Q&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="344" width="425"></object>


(Sorry about the screamo towards the end, I edited out what I could of it.)

Damn, that truck is way undergeared! :lol:

Lets see the video in real time! Nice conversion!

As far as tire choice, if I were going to build another MT, I would definitely use the Losi Claws. They are pretty nice!

:lol:


Thanks. I will get a real time video tomorrow if I can, probably a 1 clip wonder or something easy.

Coolness, tough truck. Looks huge though, wouldnt think its only ~.5" longer than an emaxx..

New video! Speed runs!

I stuck my 13tooth pinion on the motor and did a few passes and ended up breaking the truck.... So watch the video to see! I'd say it's hitting mid to high 50's, the video doesn't really do it justice though. I'll calculate theoretical speed on the speed calculator for that gearing. Anyway, here it is!

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MV3ZeadYY7o&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MV3ZeadYY7o&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Tires must be taped. I would say it is doing mind 40s... Looking good though, enjoyed the vid!

No actually they aren't taped. Or did you mean they need to be? The video honestly doesn't do it justice because its pretty damn fast with a 9 tooth, I wanna say high 30's to maybe 40 or 41 with the 9 tooth. I really need a radar gun or a local cop to radar this thing for me.

If the tires are not taped, you are not getting much ballooning, and I have run those tires un taped and under about 40 they do not balloon much. So I just do not think you are doing more than 40 cause of the lack of ballooning. Just my experience though. Get a radar gun. I have the bushness one and it is great. We used it to get accurate reading on all of my rcs. I compared it with my cop buddy's mounted radar and it was only a few % off.

They were ballooning alot actually, I'll have to get another video sometime, maybe with my Badlands when I get them. I dont think you can see it in the video that well but you can hear it. At 25 seconds to 29 seconds and at 36 seconds to 39 seconds and at 47 seconds to 50 seconds, that sound that is like a helicopters blades is the tires vibrating when they balloon, they only make that sound and that extreme when they start ballooning. And it's not just the fronts... I'd say at full speed all 4's have about 1 inch of ballooning. I know that it has to be going faster than mid 40's.
(See the attachment pictures)

But I do need a radar gun, I'd like to know just how fast it's really going.


EDIT: Also, screenshots of the video and speedcalc results, you can see the tires ballooning, fronts and rears, and here are the speed calc results with 1 inch of tire ballooning and nominal voltage (which is probably less than it actually is since I doubt those Turnigy 40C/50C batts have that much voltage drop (from 4.2 volts to 3.7 volts) on a full charge).
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l.../speedcalc.jpg


http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ningtires1.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ningtires2.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ningtires3.jpg












EDIT EDIT: Probably shouldn't bother with the speed crap anymore, I dont want to start anything with anyone about it, but I'd like to believe its going faster than low to mid 40's.

On a high traction surface with plenty of room to build up speed, I see no reason why that setup could be doing atleast mid to high 40s. A Bushnell radar gun is only $70-80 new, less used on ebay...

So I got my Badlands glued to some half offset wheels, and put an extra body I had for my truggy on it, and it looks awesome! Pictures tomorrow if the weather isn't crappy. Will finally get to test it out with the badlands tomorrow also (if it's not raining that is). Other than that, I don't really have any updates for this truck.

I have some new updates planned for this truck, not letting the cat out of the bag just yet though. Possibly some teaser pictures next week some time.

I guess I am a bit late with a teaser shot, but here ya go.... a very pixelated screen shot of my CAD drawing, and the drawing isn't quite done yet.

A couple hints, it isn't what you probably think it is, and it will be cut out with a PlasmaCam CNC plasma cutter.

And I am not saying what material it will be made of.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...MGTpaint-1.jpg

Ooh i know what it is

Well don't say! I want to hear some wild guesses and see if anyone gets it right.

CF? Looks nice btw (truck does)

Is it the motor side of a CD mount? Is it a chassis?

Big fan of this project BTW. Although I won't go along with it being better than a Maxx. Maybe tougher and bigger than a stock Maxx, yeah I might go along with that.

peanut butter in the chocolate? No no, chocolate in the peanut butter. I don't know. It's not better than my maxx:na: Show us please!!!

Nope.... and thanks.

The first one. :wink:

Thanks. So far, this truck has been alot better stock vs. stock than my E-Maxx, even better stock vs. upgraded E-Maxx IMO. I was snapping RPM arms at the hinge pin hole with smaller hits that this thing is just driving away from perfectly fine.


Where the hell did peanut butter and chocolate come from? :lol:

I guess I will show you guys though......


A screen shot of the completed center diff top plate and center diff motor mount, brace not shown.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...Tfinalcopy.jpg


I am still not going to say the material or what the final product will look like, you'll just have to wait and see. :na:

What do I win? RPM arms does not make an upgraded EMaxx.

I know. You're making the cd/motor mount out of marshmallow fluff and you are using bananas as driveshafts. The chassis becomes a dish and you use maraschino cherries as body posts.

Everyone loves a banana split with a center diff but it is too little too late. Been done too many times.

Even carbon fiber sprinkles are played out. You gotta step up your game man.

I didn't have just RPM arms, I had a UE Knucklehead towers, UE monoblock, FLM combo bulks, T-Maxx chassis, GH aluminum center braces, HCR titanium skids, Lunsford titanium hinge pins, all 3.3 spec shafts and knuckles, rear RPM true-track, front Traxxas Tubes turnbuckles, FLM aluminum diff cups, GH aluminum steering setup, and the center diff setup that is now in my MGT used to be in my Maxx. It was upgraded enough to a point where it probably shouldn't have broken very often, but it did, so I ditched it. Maybe I am just a sucky driver or abuse my trucks too much, but so far the Monster GT has been alot stronger.

When it broke the front lower RPM arms at the hinge pin hole, it also bent the front lower Lunsford titanium hinge pins. IMO because of poor design, there is no middle hole for the arms like on the Monster GT, meaning less arm support, which results in bent hinge pins, and broken/bent shocks from the arms twisting around. I really liked my Maxx, enjoyed it alot for over 2 years, and enjoyed upgrading it and such, but having to fix it after every run got kind of old. The Maxx may be alot better with like every UE part on it, but that's because they alter the design and improve on the Maxx. Parts that utilize stock designs still seem just as bad as stock parts sometimes. Just my opinion though. The MGT works better for me, your Maxx works better for you, so lets leave it at that. :wink:

You know, with that kind of imagination with food, you could be on one of those Food Network "Challenge" shows, you could make a killer RC themed cake. :lol:


It wont be carbon fiber, it's something that can cut with a plasma cutter. Let me put it this way, you will think it's 1 or both of these things once its done.... "What a stupid metal to use" and/or "That is overkill". But it will look cool. :mdr:


This will probably give it away, but what do you guys think of powder coating for RC parts? Any good? I don't want to leave it as bare metal, but I don't really want to paint it.

powder coating is cool, especially on a part like a center diff that won't really come in contact with anything.

Just like anodizing anything that bumps or scrapes something solid will leave an unsightly blemish.

Unless you are going to make a shelf queen i'd just spray paint the parts and spend the money you saved on getting laid

I may just polish to a mirror finish and clean it with a rag and WD40 every few runs to keep the finish.

polished will stay shiny if you clearcoat it (think integy)

True, but my luck it would end up looking worse. lol

I think I know what the metal is too :P

Somewhat bad news, I just realized that plasma cutters have about an 1/8'' cutting width (roughly), so it would probably cut the holes way too big (the 4 small ones at the middle and bottom of the motor plate, and top plate). So I will probably have 1 cut with the holes just to see how it looks, and if it fails, then I'll delete the 4 smaller holes on the motor plate and the two holes on the top plate, and narrow the 3 motor holes. I might also have to get rid of the heatsink fins, depending on how they turn out on the first one I have cut out.

Expect pictures of the close to finished product tomorrow night.

PICTURES!!!

And don't mind the welds on the one that is already welded together, I still have ALOT of finish work to do, and I had to do a bunch of smaller tack welds because my attempt at a bead made a globby mess (I think I had my voltage and wire speed up too high for small stuff like this, and it's welded using MIG. When I weld the others I will lower the settings alot and see how they turn out with legitimate weld beads).

Anyway, all the parts came out great, the CNC plasma cutter is amazing. Very little slag, only a couple of the motor plates had real stuck on slag, everything else just came right off with the wire wheel. I still have to drill holes in everything though, if I left the holes in the CAD drawing for the CNC plasma cutter to cut out, it would have made them way too big since they have like a 1/12'' cutting width.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1242.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1243.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1244.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1245.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1246.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1247.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1248.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1249.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1250.jpg

:gasp:

What's the weight on that fatty?

It weighs 6.75 ounces (192 grams). Not too bad considering it's 3/16'' (4.5mm) steel. Possibly overkill, but I didn't want it to bend. :mdr:

I'm dumb, but what's those spikes things for?

also guessing, those "shinier" spots are sanded down? Why not sand very lightly and get a nice shiny finish? Probably something else..

The "spikes" were actually supposed to be heatsink fins, since steel holds heat better than aluminum does. Seemed like a good idea at the time, but hey, they still look cool. :mdr: