Yes, yes, yes... nough said :lol:

Ok, so then how does the 1518 compare to the 1520?

Little more kv might be beneficial on 5S. Still seems like a brute of a little motor!

1520 on 5S with bigger pinion would be better for same speed ;)

So a 1520 on 5S running a 17-18T pinion (final gearing 17/46) is feasible?

I am interested. Looks like the motor only weighs about 50-60gr more than my tekin.

Yes, you could gear up to 55-60 mph without heat issues with this 1520 :)

Double.

Sounds like the 1520 would be a good fit overall for the truggy. It basically means I'd be down roughly 1850rpm with the reduction in KV but I wouldn't think that would be too tough to overcome with gearing changes and if it'll pull the bigger gear without overheating (which it sounds like it will with ease), that would be ideal....

Certainly seems like the motor makes significant steam!!!

I went out for a run again after tying fishing line around the savage tires so no tire balloon effect for this test. I tried 4* of timing and ran it for 15min. I burned up 5ah at 23v(6s) in 15min with 16/54 in a 12lb. rc8t. 125*F motor temp. Something seamed a lot more tame about it. I think it was the lack of the tire balloon effect. I will have to retest with a higher timing setting.

do you think this motor would be suited for a savage flux geared at 25tpinion/44t spur and 39t High speed idler? That should bring me to a 60mph top speed on 6s right?

This might help with finding mphs check it out. http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/index.html

with high gearing, would temps stay in check? Has anyone run similar high gearing on their truck without temp problems?

What are your objectives with that setup? just speed runs or bashing?... the truck's weight and tyre sizes should be factored in also...
did you try your number in the calculator? If you post the results from the calculator here, we can look at it a little closer and
see how best to approach your setup.

Alien

A 12lb truggy?...That thing needs to go on a diet!

Alien, i only bash but i have plenty of space to run and love my high speed runs... But i dont do repeated high speed runs like some do. My truck is around 13lbs and im running strapped HPI dirt claw tires on SPI Rims.

these are the results i got from the speed calc

Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 2.215277777777778
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 44
Pinion Tooth Count: 25
Total Voltage: 22.2
Motor KV: 1800
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.91
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0.5
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 1.76 : 1
Total Ratio: 12.89632 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 21.71 inches (551.39 mm)
Rollout: 1.68:1
Total Motor Speed: 39960 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 63.7 mph (102.32 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 1800
KT constant: 0.75 oz-in/A

As you can see on a 6s running 44/25 and accounting for tire ballooning at 0.5" i can hit 63mph supposedly... This setup doesnt include the 39t Idler which would probably give me up to 10mph more.

If i really am capable of these speeds then i would def gear down as i would never reach those speeds anyway.

hmmm... Interesting... but i'm a little confused... Do you want to run 1520 or a 1518? the 1520's KV is 1600 (you have 1800 which is the 1518's KV)...
I am pretty sure the 1520 can push that truck to the 60s, but if you are going to bash with it geared that high (accelerating hard and braking hard), the motor
might start getting warm a little faster... I have geared my truck for the high 40's to 50's and the motor handle it well... but I don't think during bashing
I have ever gone past the lower 40's... So now I am geared for the high 30's and the motor seems to like it temp wise and the acceleration never gets old.

Your setup with some changes:

Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 2.215277777777778
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 44
Pinion Tooth Count: 25
Total Voltage: 25 <------------- 6s on peak charge
Motor KV: 1600 <-------------- 1520
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.91
Tire Ballooning (inches): .5
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 1.76 : 1
Total Ratio: 12.89632 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 21.71 inches (551.39 mm)
Rollout: 1.68:1
Total Motor Speed: 40000 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 63.76 mph (102.42 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 1600
KT constant: 0.85 oz-in/A

I recommend you gear down for bashing (it should make your Batts happier too)::lol:
Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 2.215277777777778
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 44
Pinion Tooth Count: 18
Total Voltage: 25
Motor KV: 1600
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.91
Tire Ballooning (inches): .5
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.44 : 1
Total Ratio: 17.91156 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 21.71 inches (551.39 mm)
Rollout: 1.21:1
Total Motor Speed: 40000 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 45.91 mph (73.74 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 1600

Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 2.215277777777778
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 44
Pinion Tooth Count: 16
Total Voltage: 25
Motor KV: 1600
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.91
Tire Ballooning (inches): .5
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.75 : 1
Total Ratio: 20.15051 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 21.71 inches (551.39 mm)
Rollout: 1.08:1
Total Motor Speed: 40000 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 40.81 mph (65.55 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 1600

although i think the torque of the 1520 would be ideal... i think the 1518 would be more suitable for me. My truck isnt too overweight compared to other savages...
I think i would run an assortment of pinions depending on what surface or what sort of running i would be doing that day (asphalt, grass, dirt, or pure jumping) I am just making sure that if i do run on asphalt and run high gearing, that i do not cause any damage to my motor or esc. I would probably no run 25T most of the time... But i would like the assurance that i could if i want to and get away with it.

Hello Jahay.
Anyway, the 1520 would be the best choice for your application, because it can handle more power than the 1518 and had always an higher efficiency.
Where the 1518 works good, the 1520 works just better in truck and truggy. You have all to gain by choosing this one, and the cons are insignificants : +30gramms and maybe +10-15$ with the insurance to keep the motor cold even by pushing it hard.
The 1518 should be the right choice for buggies geared in 5 or 6S for high speed tracks but it just can't match with a torque monster 1520 in heavier vehicle like truck or truggy/muggy...

Thanks nuz for your opinion... The difference in price between the two motors really isnt a factor when you are spending this sort of cash. neither is the weight i guess. But i guess i am worried that i will not be able to gear high enough to reach my desired speeds. but according to this gearing, it looks like i can just about considering the high speed idler gear will be installed.

Differential Ratio: 3.2222222222222223
Transmission Ratio: 2.215277777777778
Other Ratio: 1 + high speed idler gear should add around 8-10mph
Spur Tooth Count: 44 stock spur
Pinion Tooth Count: 25 largest pinion
Total Voltage: 22.2 ideal average voltage
Motor KV: 1600 neu 1520
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.5
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0.5 Hpi dirt claws on spi rims
Motor Current Draw: 0 not sure how many amps the motor would draw on stated gearing. would esc overheat????
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 1.76 : 1
Total Ratio: 12.56309 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 20.42 inches (518.68 mm)
Rollout: 1.63:1
Total Motor Speed: 35520 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 54.67 mph (87.82 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 1600
KT constant: 0.85 oz-in/A


if this speed calc is accurate then i would get the 1520 immediately. i need a motor asap... starting to get savage withdraw symptoms haha.

IMO, the 1518 is waaay more motor than a buggy needs and plenty for all but the porkiest trucks. The 1520 is plain overkill unless you have a 15lb truck with big aluminum rims or something.
Jahay -an idler gear doesn't add any speed or take any away - it is simply there to create space(usually to allow proper gear mesh with a larger diameter motor or small spur gear) and it reverses the direction or rotation(as far as the gear ratio goes...it is "idle"). :)

i thought 1520 would be completely un necessary, considering i thought my torq2200 was pretty adequate already.
So i may just get the 1518 and can also gear a couple of teeth lower on the pinion considering it spins a little faster than the 1520.

Nice1 Mike. I think they are in stock in the rc monster store...

i would love to get that 1520... but for the speeds i want to reach i think it spins too low... 1518 will be better for me. I bet the 1520 just has way to much torq!

No one is saying you can't reach 'those speeds' with a 1518... all we are saying is that the 1520 will get there with a little efficiency... 1600kv is not that low... as said before, if you gear it appropriately it will still do the job.

From Wikipedia: 'Torque, also called moment or moment of force, is the tendency of a force to rotate an object about an axis, fulcrum, or pivot. Just as a force is a push or a pull, a torque can be thought of as a twist.'

So, the higher 'moment of force', the faster motor will achieve it's "twist'... which translates to greater acceleration and getting to 'top speeds' quicker...

See the comments below:

As the thread name says, '1520 - your experiences'... I can only really speak to the 1520... but I am sure the numbers also speak for themselves... I too believe that the 1520 is overkill,
but that's what i love about it. :yes:

Alien

angry alien... looks like i will go with the 1520...
The 1518 is out of stock everywhere.... I will just gear it a little higher when i want to do speed runs... and im sure ill enjoy the torq when gearing lower for bashing...

Thanks for the advice... really appreciate it

No worries man... :yes:

:o

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/7759/15201t.jpg

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/6964/15202.jpg

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/6660/15203o.jpg

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/906/15204.jpg

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/5079/15205.jpg

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/2668/mugenq.jpg

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/1337/mugen2.jpg

:)

So happy to finally get it ! That was quick, US ==> FRANCE : 7 days :D :D

mmmmm... I love that new motor smell :lol:

The tekin truggy and other "truggy motors" just cant match with this little 2000 Watts monster ! :na::na::na:

Not sure they're not trying too...

I guess I don't necessarily follow the bigger and bigger motor theory. Sure it makes more power so you see less peak current draw but at the end of the day, it still requires motor current just to run it due to it's size and the field required to run it... Otherwise, we'd just run the 1717 or bigger and call it a day.

I'm pretty sure the constant uncontrolled wheel spin doesn't help your lap times either so whatever small efficiency gain your getting is lost while your not turning faster laps :wink: It's certainly not like the tekin's are considered underpowered.

It's like saying running big block nitro motors is more efficient because they make a ton of torque so you can gear them up, requiring less rpm and thus allowing for more run time per tank... I have yet to see that work out.

Certainly, a more powerful motor has to work less hard to get the vehicle to speed but there is also a point of diminishing returns. There is something to be said for easy to drive....


Maybe I'm completely wrong here and I'll get one and see for myself but I guess I don't see where the benefits would be here. That being said, Nuz, if you come back praising this thing and you picked up 3-4-5min run time even with the taller gearing and the temps are icy cool, I could see me picking one up for sure...


Just sayin :mdr:

I bought this motor for its efficiency, not its power ! Its the motor that will give me the longest run times with my truggy application and the lower amp rate with his low kV !!!
I do not attend to use it like you US bashers with your 65mph monster truck wheelings and other crazy stuff :yes::yes::yes::lol:
For exemple, i will gear it first for 40 mph, not more :D And myabe later, i will try some 22-25 pinion gears to push the motor (or the truggy) to its limit :whistle::whistle::party::party:

Hahahaha!!!! Basher....??? Clearly your misunderstood.....

Anyhoo, my mbx6t is 9.3lbs ready to run in full race trim as it sits right now. With my tekin 1700kv it's geared to do your exact race spec 40mph (15-16/46).

I want to run 20min mains on my 4200mah setup. I'd run a 5000mah but it's 101grams more mass. 5500's are another 171gr over the 5000's (272gr total over the 4200's). Not worth the weight increase for the capacity gain. I could go down in capacity and deal with a batt change but the mass difference between 4200 and 3300 is only 40grams and less to the 3000's, so again, not worth the sacrifice. Doesn't make sense to drop more capacity to save that little weight.

Now if we look at the weight difference between the 2 power systems we get more interesting info (for those of us bashing and all )...

MMM/1520 combo - 603gr

RX8/TT2322 combo - 480.5gr

Difference of another 122gr or a 27% :wink: It's my belief that a lighter setups with well sorted driveline is worth more efficiency (wasted diff or wheel bearing will kill your efficiency). Takes less current to get it to speed, etc. Matter of fact, the slipperential I installed is on my short list already. It may provide driveline protection and some tuning options but it's much heavier. I'm planning on trying the delrin plastic gear to reduce the mass but a plastic geared stock mugen diff wouldn't weight beans by comparision. I'll be weighing the benefits closely once I get my setup on the track...

Like I said, I'm not saying it's not a good, viable option. It might be a great setup out there. Goodness knows I love power to spare (heck, I ran a Rody C5R in a truggy before). I'm just not sure this buys me anything. I could just as easily run a 1300-1500kv tekin on 6s for efficiency sake... All that being said, if you come back with great efficiency gains and cool running animal, I'm all in...


< --- Clearly a well developed bashers setup :yes:

Not to dissuade anyone from looking at the 1520. I think it's going to be a GREAT motor especially for those looking to build complete land animals. I think Castle makes great stuff and I'm sure this will be a great powerplant.

I didnt say that your tekin truggy wasnt efficient. But the tekin truggy motor handle already less power than the 1515 1Y castle (1400w vs 1500w for the castle). It means that your tekin will virtually run hotter than a CC/neu 2200kV. As my opinion it will run as cool as a CC 2200kV because its lower kV and 5S.
But here in Europe, we stated that a 1500W motor is a little weak for truck heavy like monster or truggy, at the end of one run, the motor often rises to 150-160 °F with a tekin truggy or a CCneu 2200kV. And thoses high temps will literally kill your efficiency...
I started with a 1000W ORION combo 2050kV in my stock inferno VE, my runtimes was about 15 min with 150-160°F in the motor. I bought then a CC 2200kV combo, and i am now at 100°F max with 65-70°F outside and 20min of runtimes !!!
==> That mean a motor which can handle a lot of power consume less amp than a small motor that is pushed to its limit. A motor which can handle more power dont consume more amp than a smaller motor (there is a limit too, full throttle all time wil consumme more with a powerfull motor ^^^). Your tekin truggy, even geared to 40mph, will probably run above 130-140°F, and, for me, a motor which run above 100-110 °F isnt in its max efficient range.
As the 1520 handle theoritically 2000Watts, I think it will run at 90-100°F max, thats why I take this one instead the truggy or other lighter motor.
Here in Europe there have been many fried rx8 ESC too, and it appears that the mmv3 is the way to go. Its another reason to stay in Castle.
Third reason, castle motor cans are totally closed, and wires already solder internally so its really ready to run (I am not good at solding wires !!!!).

I'd agree that higher temps are not efficient. It brings the wire resistance up and hurts the magnets performance so a loss for sure.

The nice thing about motors is they pull the power they need so overall output isn't that big a concern too me personally. Most of these motors are overkill for our apps regardless. BUT, like you mentioned, if they are running hot it's not an ideal setup.

If we're looking at efficiency I'd continue to look at the entire package. I'd eliminate the motor connectors (deans/bullets/everything). I don't care what they say, with the current levels these systems are capable of pulling (160A in cases), they're not efficient. Wire length/guage should be checked, etc (I'm direct wired on the motor).

If I can stay in the 130-140 range, I'd be ok with that at this point. Obviously if I could roll at 100* it would be better for sure. With the only slight decrease in kv, one shouldn't even feel the top end difference (1850rpm @ 18.5v).

IDK, I guess I'll have to see how that 1520 works for you. My guess is, it'll be better on shorter course slower tracks where there is a lot of part throttle (prolly be better with high traction surfaces too). Longer, tracks with fair WOT time, the increased efficiency will probably be curtailed some due to the overall greater power it "should" consume.

It's only ~75gr heavier so coupled with a RX8, it's tolerable for sure mass wise.

Alright, it's growing on me some more :mdr:

I would rather have bought a castle 1520 1.5Y 1300kV if it existed for efficiency :angel::yipi: but castle seems to keep going with high kV motor for their "High speed powerfull" reputation ^^
For me 1500Watts is perfect for a buggy so a truggy need 1800-2000Watts. And the tekin has 1400Watts :whip::whip:
I didn't take a neu because a neu hasn't big bearings, has hard wires (very easy to break or to short), and open cases which is very awfull for off road application !
So I have this small monster ^^ let's see how it works :yes: just have to wait my RC monster conversion kit, some holes in chassis to adjust battery tray and GOGOGO :D

Keep me/us post on how it works out. I'm interested to hear how it works for you.

It's certainly a powerhouse. We'll see if it's driveable. Bruce certainly has his RC8e running strong with it.

I totally agree with the 1300kv version. Run it on 6s and you'd be set.

Posted on Friday, received on Tuesday (from Belgium)

Long ass motor for sure. :intello:


http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/4...cn1439x.th.jpg

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/2...cn1440z.th.jpg

http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/4...cn1436l.th.jpg

Don't want to think what'll happen if the lipos get hit.:lol: Probably gonna order a FLM tower, I think it's a bit thinner and won't bend and puncture anything.

impressive! big motor... at least i know it will fit in my chassis...i thought you were running the db-17 xxl chassis....

If i were you i wouldnt bother with FLM towers... everyone is saying bad things about bending them!!! And when they bend, they dont bend back.... I would stick with stock and modify them if necessary to get the lipos to fit...

Looking good though! Tell me how the motor performs in the xl... and please get a vid if possible.
What gearing are you running? considering the power of the motor i was going to run 21t pinion and 44 spur with 39t high speed idler (locked second gear). I have a 25t pinion for road use too :-)

Hey guys i think the castle 2200KV setup for a truggy is power enough for racing as long as it is setup properly in terms of gearing and voltages. However if you want to bash and have a good time and be capable of those really high speeds and not destroying motors or speed controllers than a bigger motor is the way to go. I run a NEU 1521 1Y (Castle motor not available at the time) in my MBX6T and a 1527 1Y in a G3R and temps and speeds are impressive to say the least. So are my run times. In my G3R i will get bored of doing the same circuit in the back yard before my LVC goes off. But if i want to do a speed run and try for 100mph plus i gear up and volts up and away i go. No issues except keeping it on the ground. The most valuable tools you can have in terms of electric setup are your temp gun and a data logger.

But remerber at the end of the day this is still a HOBBY and is supposed to be FUN. So have FUN:party::party:

My 1520 has another small brother 1515 1Y since yesterday ;)

http://img10.hostingpics.net/pics/23...stleFamily.jpg

You can see the ORION vortex 8 2050kV (dead) between the 2 monsters :D As long but not as heavy :lol:
Castle family is growning !
Still waiting RC monster conversion kit for my MBX5T... It smells like customs :oops::oops:

The "bad boy" mounted in the chassis :yes: :

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/2876/derrire.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3342/carrodevant.jpg

Gearing 15/46, 6S 4000mAh (a little heavy), runtimes under track conditions are 19-20min, although the gearing is a little too much to race !
Temps : when ambient is 55-60, motor reaches 100-105 °F after the run :yipi:
I do not know the weight of my truggy, but I am pretty sure that it reaches 11 lbs (a little heavy compared to a nitro MBX5T).