Here is a pic of the four screws removed and me about pushing the plate around with my fingers.
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...8%3C2336nu0mrj

Pushing the plate is easy. there is no pressure from the top deck and i did not need to remove it in order to access the plate. Honestly once the plate is attached to the lower chassis you really don't need to move it at all. Another great thing to note about this craftmanship is this: YOU DO NOT NEED TO DRILL YOUR CHASSIS. if you notice all i used were the existing chassis mounting holes for the top deck. I will get in to this a bit further but for now check out the pic
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...8%3C6336nu0mrj

Before i start showing you pics of the plate removed i want to show you a very trick mod. On the bottom of the chassis the front brace holes are slotted. What this means is that i can make my CDM wider or narrower depending on the width of the diff being used. For example when i was using the Kyosho 44 tooth spur my center diff was much fatter. Then i decided to switch to a 50t spur that was light weight and narrower than the kyosho. As a result I needed to push together the CDM. By adding this feature i was able to remove all the slack that everyone has with their bearings not fitting correctly. My bearing now sit inside the CDM and there is no need for shims!!!!!!!!
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...8%3C5336nu0mrj

NO bearing SLOP!!!!
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...2%3B7336nu0mrj

Again no bearing slop, and you can see that the top chassis deck was slightly drilled to accomidate larger spurs. This pic shows my 50T spur with no clearance issues at all. Also you can see how clean and put together it is. You will also not that the holes in the top chassis were used to help hold down the top deck....
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...9%3C8336nu0mrj

The original chassis comes with braces that hold the top deck to the chassis. Well to improve upon this design a larger diamter piece of aluminum tubing was used and adds to the rigidity of the chassis. Here is a pic of the differences in diamter of the braces used. The stock ones are the skinny ones and the fat ones are the improved modifided versions that help tighten up and strengthen the chassis!!! I removed the plate for easy viewing...
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...8%3C3336nu0mrj
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...3C%3A336nu0mrj

After you remove the 4 bottom screws the entire CDM can be removed.
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...9%3C3336nu0mrj

Then if you remove the other 4 screws that hold the CDP, you can remove the plate.
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...2%3B8336nu0mrj

Then if you want you can connect the two again lol just for fun; more importantly though you will notice the spaces for adjustment at the front of the CDM mount.
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...%3A36336nu0mrj
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...CG%3D35365753%

another thing about the plate is that the screws are counter sunk so that it looks trick and all the edges have been machined for the professional look.
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...9%3C4336nu0mrj

G4-Maxx with CDM and CDP!!!! Any questions??
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...88935336nu0mrj
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...3C%3A336nu0mrj
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...%3A34336nu0mrj

I'm sorry for taking sooo long with the pics. The pics don't do this piece of craftmanship justice. I need to polish up the truck a bit but otherwise this Center Diff Plate (CDP) is top notch. Machined edges, multiple diff positioning, available dog bones, larger spur clearance for spurs gears up to 50t, no bearing slop, easy removal of CDM and CDP, uses stock chassis holes, and is an easy project BUT great improvement!!!!!

A lot of thought went in to this piece. Now all you need to do is see my CDM for my THUNDER heheheheheeeheheh WORK of ART!!

Piece of art, looks really good. I like the CDP, could use one of them for my G4 :smile:

Now you just need the most important upgrade, bulkheads. As you probaly know, the plastic ones are proned to brake.

I do have an 8 gear spyder VBS; i just wanted to build an old school maxx that was somewhat light weight. LOL

if the cost of an aluminum lower plate is too exspensive (price TBA), there will be one made from Delrin for you light race trucks. The delrin design will be exactly the same but lighter and black in color.

I do have an 8 gear spyder VBS; i just wanted to build an old school maxx that was somewhat light weight. LOL

if the cost of an aluminum lower plate is too exspensive (price TBA), there will be one made from Delrin for you light race trucks. The delrin design will be exactly the same but lighter and black in color.

That's some nice work done on the truck :yes:, but I agree with Klausen... plastic bulks might be a little weak for this build... especially with Aluminum shock towers and arms...

Alien

I like the plastic blahhh

I knew you had a build somewhere finally found it. Heres my similer build I did over a year ago called it the Silverback named it aftere the infamouse Rasorback that robin made 12 of.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2595.jpg
Thought about doing the center diff mod but the revo spec tranny fits in there so perfect and since I really dont race I figure why bother. I removed and sold the racerx suspension and I am going to run a mono with rpm trutrac suspension. It should be the same wheelbase as yours for the price of a mono.

you will need to find someone who can make you a rear center drive shaft if you plan on doing this. The G4 as you know uses the mono drive shaft. So if you go longer with the mono you will need a drive shaft that is the length of the mono shaft plus an additional 25mm long (25mm to compensate for the added length of the mono). Your truck looks good!!!!!!!

Actually with this transmission(different cup placement then the center diff) and no mono the UE 110mm titanium dogbone fits (Its the one used for hardcore chassis trucks back in the day). And with the mono, the long Savage xl driveshaft fits perfect. No need to find someone to make those. Its looks good there with all that nice UE billet but its definatly going to look a little different with the rpm trutrack suspension. I am still trying to decide if I should go with knucklehead towers with a dd wing mount or my titanium duh engineering towers. I was also debating on the 6 spider or the 8 spiders diffs as I have either set I could use. I have a rcm center diff I was wondering what are you getting for one of the adaptor plates?

The reason his stock G4 chassis has the same wheelbase as his Thunder+Mono is because his G4 has Setbacks and his Thunder+Mono doesn't. The Setbacks increase the wheelbase, so if both trucks had the same rear a-arms, the G4 would be shorter than the Thunder+Mono.

Just my $0.02...

Nice work wish they still sold this chassis

Chassis is nice and smooth. Good layout, could have had the upper praces designed a little better, but this is just my oppinion.