Good Job stepping up to the plate young man !

You have great photo skills, nice clean crisp pics.

Seal? I'm not familiar with that

A good idea but because im gonna be bashing in a variety of terrain vs doing track runs, i'm gonna need the suspension to be independent, articulate and absorb alot of punishment for my needs, especially if I land jumps poorly.

Love the grub screw idea, I would have never thought of something like that. Going to LHS tomorrow to pick up a bunch of them to do the same.

It does sound like a good idea, but what if one vibrates loose to the inside? I know hes putting loctite on them, but im just saying...

Well I'd use red-loctite... but what about like just putting tape over them? Like electrical tape, or something more sticky like gorilla tape?

aluminum HVAC tape works great! It's sticky as can be, very thin and it's aluminum so it will not hold any excess heat in

Hence the loctite :mdr: You could use electric tape also. I did it last year on my Flux but it looks really tacky.....

Hmm actually red loctite isn't a bad idea considering the heat and vibration that motor is gonna put out. I actually just checked my blue loctited screws and they wern't very attached at all, which surprised me.

I'm gonna put on some red loctite and see if they stay on tight and let you know what I find.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...x/redscrew.jpg

Hey FREEZE glad to see your back at it!
What about just using a little high temp. black silicone?
The red thread lock is apita to get back apart if you ever decide to use that motor in another build or decide to sell it.

I suppose you could do that also, it's just gonna look crappy IMO. My Tork motor isn't going to be going anywhere either

Silver Aluminum tape saves the day again, IMO.
I do like the grub screw idea but for reasons mentioned I wouldn't be able to get the possibility of them creeping inside out of mind.

Well Sweet Dreams then Bondo. LOL

Red Loctite is Permanent, and only softens when heated in excess of 500 degrees.

I would think Blue Loctite would work well for this.

If you want the "middle of the road" between Blue and Red, Green is the middle choice.

Welcome Back Mr. Freeze. :yes:

if i were you freeze, i would get those set screws out immediately. you will not be able to get them out once it hardens. trust me, blue is enough. if you want to use this motor for anything else or sell it, you're screwed.

You could replace the endbell with the Castle repair kit in the event the screws can't be removed.

Glad you are continuing your thread here on RCM.

1. Likes the set screw idea ... going to put tape op my motor tomorrow, never thought of it tbh.

2. Greased Lightning :D ... it works awesome, have to find that around here to, I hate purple.

3. Servo spring saver, will upgrade it as well. I don't want my precious DS1015 to get harmed.

4. Steering ball bearings .. will look into that as well. Think I will tear apart my Savy and give it a good cleaning and check up. I hardly even check anything because this monster never stops running.

Like Bondo said, ++ on your pics!

GLHF
(aka : Good Luck and Have Fun)

Already tried blue and it didnt' hold worth crap.

Looking into it I realized that I would only really need to plug one or two of the extra mounting wholes on my castle motors. Mikes mounts cover most of them, that and the traxxas mount covers all of them on the 4x4. The ten t has the best coverage with the newer style motor mount. The Raze-E has one obviously exposed, but it is in a place where I can just stick a short button head screw in it and probably call it a day.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...sealmotor2.jpg
Which in you case Freeze seeing as HPI uses the floating mount you could have probably just used short button head screws instead of the grubs. That way you can stick with the blue loctite and not have to lose the mounting holes if you plan to use the motor in another application.

I won't be using/transfering the motor to anything else so im not concerned with that.

True if you could find the right size hex head screws that arn't very long, that would work also.

Shortest I could find, I am sure they make a 3x3 though.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ton-Head-Screw

Those would fit just perfectly actually, hmm.......

Went ahead and ordered those and i'll update my findings when I get them installed, good find reno!

Sikes I gotta correct you here, I keep seeing this mistake on the forum.

Blue is temporary

Red is semi-permanent

Green is permanent

Blue is really quite weak and should only be used for screws that have LOW stresses on them, or for holding a bearing in a slightly oversized bore. Blue is about as strong as wood glue.

Red should be used on things like pinion setscrews, but IN MODERATION. You'll only need a torch if you soak the whole thread.

Green is permanent, and should almost NEVER be used in RC applications.

This would be much simpler if they'd use green for weak, yellow for medium and red for permanent, just like a stoplight. Things are never that clear though are they?

So, again-

Blue is temporary
Red is semi-permanent
Green is PERMANENT

Freeze, silicone does not expand with heat, neither does standard oil. The less air the better, just an FYI.

Looks like a fun project, you'll be tearing it up soon :yes:

Cheers!

I didn't know this was going to be Loctite 101. :whistle:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml for more info.

Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing.

Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Due to it's low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need to disassemble prior to application. Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It prevents loosening from shock and vibration and leakage from shock and vibration and protects threads from rust and corrosion. The product can also be used to fill porosity in welds, casting and powder metal parts. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for disassembly.

Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is ONLY removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

Don't take my word for it. :whistle:

Well.... I have to inform some people of this!

The only time I've ever had trouble getting anything apart was when I used green. I use red almost exclusively and have for at least 20 years.

I guess you have the green light to use green Freeze, and I stand corrected sikes.

I knew something wasn't right about your original loctite post but I was to lazy to google it

Green Loctite is a Bearing Retainer Compound, Mainly used to secure a pinion to a shaft without a grub screw.
Purple Loctite is sometimes called Screwlock , weakest one.
Blue Loctite is called Nut Lock, Blue and the best one to use for RC's
Red Loctite is called Stud Lock, it's Red and near impossible to undo once it's cured.

So I got a few small button heads into the exposed holes on the motors. Freeze these will definitely work better than the grubs, in your case they should look pretty slick since they put more holes in that motor that the actual castle neu. Im a visual guy, part of me wants you to rotate between a black oxide screw and a stainless every other hole!

^^ +1 Nothing better than bling that serves a purpose.

Part 5: Wheel/tire prep and assembly


Next on the agenda is to get my wheels and tires prepped up for mounting and gluing. After much research and thinking, I decided to go with the stock HPI GT-2 tires. I have found the traction to be all around decent with these on my first Flux and they are fairly light weight, especially in comparison to the larger and heavier GT-S tires. Due to the fact that "Frostbyte II" will have an widened wheels base, this will create higher pressure points on the axles, hubs, bearings, arms and turnbuckles. As such, I wanted to keep the weight down as much as possible to prevent overstressing arm components. I also went again with the original HPI dish wheels as used on the original "Frostbyte" I They worked well last time, they look good and are very light weight yet strong. a perfect combo all around with the GT-2 tires. With that settled, it's time to get some CA glue on my fingers! *always happens*



Lets go over my tire mounting supplies and tools that I use. We've got our light CA glue of course, 91% rubbing alcohol to clean the anti-aging powder and dirt off the tires, rubber bands to hold the tires in place during glue setting, sandpaper to rough up the edges of our rims to help the CA glue bond better and our first attempt with using Gorilla tape to reduce tire ballooning. In the past, I have used strapping fiber tape.


http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...te2/wheel2.jpg


I start with removing the inner tire foams and flipping them inside out to wipe out the inside thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and shop towels. This helps clean and preps the rubber to help keep the tape attached to the tire.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...te2/wheel3.jpg


I also do the same with the outside rim of the tire that will be glued to the wheel. Again, cleaning the surface of dust, dirt and contaminates will help the glue bond better to the tire and reduce the chance of tire shredding at high speeds. You can see the yellow/greenish anti-aging powder coming off in this picture on the towel. That's what we want as it reduces the ability for both the CA glue and tape to attach to the tire if its not cleaned off.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...te2/wheel6.jpg


With the tire's inner rubber prepped, it was time to give this Gorilla tape a try. I never have used it personally up until I few months ago when I helped my father in the garage and he was using it to attach a few pieces of carpeting together. I was simply amazed at how incredibly sticky the stuff was as it took a good amount of muscle to pull off sections of tape! It also was very hard to rip and tear. Duct tape might as well be desk clear tape in comparison to this stuff!

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...te2/wheel4.jpg


Using a long, single strap, I slowly wrap it around the middle of the tire and overlap it about one inch before I cut it off and press it firmly down all around with my fingers. This Gorilla tape is pretty damn sticky, I'm pretty optimistic that this will help reduce ballooning even more then the strapping tape and hold better under high tire stress.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...te2/wheel5.jpg



With the tires themselves prepped, it was time to give the rims some attention. This may be considered overkill to some people, but after you see the amount of force applied to RC car tires under brushless, lipo power and turning regular wheels into high speed, expanded rubber discs of self destructive energy, I prefer to go the extra mile to help make sure my tires stay together and get my money's worth. It's a simple matter of taking some medium grit sandpaper and lightly roughing up the outer and inner edges of the tire rim.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...te2/wheel7.jpg


The small scratches and grooves in the rim will help the CA glue bond even better to the rim and tire, therebye reducing the chance of a high speed tire explosion. I consider that well worth the extra 10 minute prep time. Afterwards, I wipe down the rims with a wet cloth to clean off any residue, sand particles plastic filings so its a nice clean and rough surface.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m.../scratches.jpg



After all that prep, its time to get these bad boys assembled. Its a simple matter of GENTLY inserting the wheels and slowly nudging them into the tire without tearing the foam.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...te2/wheel8.jpg


With the wheels and tires installed and checked over to make sure there are no uneven seems, I slowly began adding CA glue in small drops, peeling back the tire from the rim in 2" increments. Afterwards, I wrap several rubber bands to help keep the tire tight against the wheel. I then run small bead of CA glue between the tire and wheels seamand rotate the tire so I basically "seal" the tire and rim together with a thin layer of glue on the outside. I then let them sit for an hour, remove the rubber bands and repeat on the flip side

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...te2/wheel9.jpg


After a few hours of curing, I remove the rubber bands and give the tires once over. They look firmly glued in place and feel nice and bouncy without being too heavy but have a nice monster truck look to them. Were done here!

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...e2/wheel10.jpg



Stay tuned for my next section as we begin final re-assembly of "Frostbyte II's' main chassis, axle and tranny upgrades!

Nicely done and they look good, a couple of points though if i may.
- With a high profile tire like those that are mounted normally (ie not on inner bead of larger diameter wheel) you will get a fair bit lateral roll. HPI firm inner foams might have helped with that.
- Also, using a single strip of tape that doesn't cover the entire flat area of the tire will usually allow the edges of the tire to still balloon a bit.

I'm not looking forward to gluing my set up on the inner bead this weekend. It's a PITA. If only a manufacturer would get around to making a decent MT tire for brushless we wouldn't have to jump through hoops just to put a tire together.

Correction
 

Freeze, silicone does not expand with heat, neither does standard oil. The less air the better, just an FYI.

CORRECTION. standard oil does expand with heat. I worked onboard ships for many years and supervised transfering gasoline, diesel fuel, jet fuel, and lude oil from one ship to another and I can assure you that petrolium products do expand as the temperature rises. If you put any oil product into a container and change the temp of that substance the level will change accordingly. Hotter will make the level rise, colder will make the level drop. I remember how surprized I was when seeing just how much the levels of tanks would vary in changing temps. Maybe you were thinking about how you cannot compress oil. It is not compressable.

I'll have to try gorilla tape next time I build tires. I used the reinforced packaging tape last time, and was less than pleased with the results. Its lasted a while, but eventually peeled back and ended just a wad of loose tape after a yr or two of bashing in water, dust and mud.

Conditions
 

Under those conditions I dont think there is any tape that will do much better. There is no such thing as permanent tape. The best long lasting tape I have seen is aluminum tape, but the added weight may be too much to deal with and its flexability is limited.

UPDATE: Motor sealing


There once again has been a change in regards to how I sealed the endbell up on my Flux Tork motor. There was a fair amount of concern at the RCM boards in using set screws to seal up the endbell to keep dust and debris out of the motor housing, as was my original idea. However, t t was feared that even with loctite, there was a real possibility that the set screws could eventually work their way loose and fall into the motor housing and be thrown around while the motor is working. Needless to say, that would be VERY bad. Even though the possibility of such a thing happening, especially after using red loctite was very remote, I began to worry if it was too much of a risk to take. A fellow board member at RCM gave me a recommendation of using some button head hex screws that HPI themselves makes. These would not only seal the motor up from dust intake, but also prevent the very slight but possible chance of the regular set screws falling into the motor.


With them only being a few bucks at Amain hobbies, I decided to order them and give it a try.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...sealmotor1.jpg



Needless to say, they fit and worked perfectly! They seal up the mounting holes very well and with just a small dab of blue loctite, there is very little chance for them to be worked loose and even if they do, the head prevents them from falling into the motor! Many thanks to Reno 911 for the suggestion! Plus, it gives the motor a cool "custom" look to it!

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...sealmotor3.jpg


Now that I FINALLY have found the best and safest way to seal up the motor thanks to Reno911's suggestion, were ready to move onto the final stages of "Frostbyte II's" build! Stay tuned!

That really looks cool.

The best part about it is:

You know it's done right and there are NO worries. :yes:

Looks great Freeze! If I can find enough extra stainless button head screws at that size I'll stick them in the mail your way. That way you can have the extra bling of oxide, stainless, oxide. You should only need four right?

Lol, thanks for offer but i'll pass, I won't care much for that look on the motor.

Oh wells worth a try, still looks pretty slick as is.

i really like the look of the motor with the button-head screws. i will seal up my flux motor the same way after i get some more screws from the local hobby store.