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Oh and on another note: I got to try the 1520 in the 8ight for about a minute and HOLY CRAP! i almost pulled a backflip off the speedbump on accident! :lol: But the MMM isnt working right (or Servo). So no full Runs yet...
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Thanks for the info.
I should be able to start making my mount next week or so. The idea about removing the end bell to get the proper spacing is seriously smart, I think that's how i'll do mine. |
To use the words of neil, that motor is Mahoosive!
Yeah man nice Maxx!! And as I've said your modded Badlands make me want to get them again and do it right like you did. I'm glad some one understood my "glittery". I can't think of a better term for the way our oil looks. I was afraid of using metal a few years ago. Now I recommend it, certainly for 1/8th scale. -Zack |
:lol: Really! I really like the badlands for grass and park running. Why dont you just bake your other ones from the buddy truck and stretch em...? Or are they about toast?
Bondonutz had a good tutorial on The tube. Its extremely easy. 325 for 15 turn and 15 more... I did that with those Zombie Maxx Tires you see on the Yellow rims. They had stripped 14mm hex so They were useless on the rims I had. And they were the best tires IMO. Now Im glad I bought that complete unit from the bay. That spur sure came in handy. |
Hey,
I'm just wondering what sort of tap and drill set you used. I have a dubro set coming but i am unsure if they'll be able to tap ally. Also thanks for the link for the mill. I think i will get a mill from here (australia) as then the measurements should be metric but i'll be getting some of the other stuff from the US as it's heaps cheaper. |
Although I have no experience with a Dubro Tap. I dont think you will have a problem tapping the Aluminum. Which type AL are you going to go with 60 series or 70? I just used a cheap Kobalt brand tap and die set. Bought from Lowes. I think it is the Lowes "Home Brand". Just take your time and make sure you get the tap started in the hole straight.
Thanks for posting in my thread. I was just reading through yours yesterday before you commented. I looks forward to seeing what you come up with as well... |
Al is very easy to thread. I do alot of mine with just a screwdrive style tap holder and a steady hand. M3 and m4 threads usually do not even require any cutting oil. Just go slow, and when you feel some resistance turn the tab backwards 1/8 of a turn or so.
Best method I found to getting holes tapped perfect was to chuck the tap into the drill press and just turn it by hand while advancing it with light pressure on the press handle. |
So I am sitting & looking at the Excess 1/4" 6061, I have here and I thinking I can make an easy extended Rustler Chassis. I already have the FLM "Extended chasssis" But it only pushes the wheelbase to 12.5" ( 1 inch extension) and that thing is still just a wheely king.
I have just enough to make a simple chassis that will stretch the WB of the Rustler to about 16 inches even. I am thinking about trying out a "Mini Baja" type vehicle. Instead of a body maybe make a roll cage out of some Nylon rods or something. Anyone ever seen a Rustler with an extreme WB like that ? I would love to take a look... :neutral: Thanks, Sean. |
What I have been working on...
Some goodies from Christmas and I am getting a power upgrade and a new Short course look.
I got a Mamba Monster, 2 x 3s 5000 40c Zippy for 6s and I swapped my Castle 1520 in there. SC10 Body, FLM Rustler bumper, RPM Slash front Bumper with SC8 Front bumper mount, SC8 Rear bumper and SC8 rear mount. <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5499.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5499.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5484.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5484.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5483.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5483.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Here you can see Where I flipped the FLM Rustler bumper around. Mounted the RPM Slash bumper to it. Then drilled holes through so I could mount it to the chassis. Then I hooked Up the SC8 front mounts to the shock tower, and drilled two holes through the RPM Slash bumper. This thing is Rock Solid. <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5486.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5486.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5485.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5485.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5487.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5487.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5492.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5492.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5490.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5490.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> |
Rear Mount
So here is the SC8 bumper Mounted to the Hinge pin cap. and Drilled two holes in the tower added a spacer screw and done.
<a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5488.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5488.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5493.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5493.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5489.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5489.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5491.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5491.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> As you can see here and the Top shot above. The length on the Slash bumper and SC8 bumper works just right... <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5494.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5494.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5495.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5495.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5496.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5496.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Towel holding the body up. I gotta redo the mounts... Should be simple, I use new square style Maxx body mounts, They are easy to mount and tough. <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5498.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5498.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> |
Raced the Maxx against our Ofna buggies and I was keeping a 1/2 lap lead for a good 6 laps. Man this thing is handling SWEEEET! :party:
I WILL Have videos. Our "Track" is just an Oval out in the riverbed. But it is so much fun! I blew a rear shock on the SC8ight and I think I might buy some MBX6 shocks for all around rather than a rebuild..... Maxx 1717 CD 14/50 Badlands 55mph... LX1E 1512 2650 14/51 Stock tires 65mph... LX Comp 1518 18/51 Proline Crimefighter. 62mph... All 6s, Crazy Fun :yes: Oh and bought all new bearings for all three of my rides for 48 shipped from avid RC |
Have you ever used Avid bearings before? I am using them for my Jammin on-road, so wondering how they are. I got the dual-sealed (one metal shield, one red rubber seal) to try out.
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No, this would be my first purchase from them. But I have many good things about them. I was also going to go for the "Revolution" or something 1 rubber 1 metal side. But I opted for dual Rubber since I run 80% off road.
The Revo. should be optimal I would think for the On-road though. minimal dirt/dust:smile: Have you looked into bodies yet>? I really like that CF build. Top notch. |
Been browsing for awhile, still need to save the cash up for one. I'm either going to get one of the Deltaplastik, or a pre-painted, pre-finished IGT1 body. I'm leaning towards the IGT1, the Deltaplastik bodies are awesome and tons to choose from, but $90 for a clear body might be more than I'm willing to pay.
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Good stuff man. I really like the Avid bearings. I am using them in my Mutant Maxx in all the knuckles. Revolution on the inside and rubber on the outside. They are all smooth.
That Maxx does sound like a good runner. 6s woohoo! lol |
Well, I got the new bodies all painted and they are looking pretty killer... I got some shots but I am at work and I didnt load them to photobucket yet... I will post them up later along with some shots of the "Rustler"...
Well I made my new chassis for the Rustler. It was actually extremely easy. Only took about an hour and half to file, drill and countersink all the holes. Its not something crazy fancy, its actually more like a Low CG - Super Stretched Stampede. Only thing I need to MOD is how the Steering top plate connects. The plates sits about 1/4" too wide for my chassis. So I may just make a small Block to attach the chassis to the top plate behind the servo. Should be simple and actually will act as a battery stop for the front. It is 1/4" 6061-T6511 ~3 wide (not at home, cant remember). Wheelbase is right around 16 inches, and is not too stupid looking considering the width ( I have the EXT FLM Arms). It should actually look pretty cool once I hook up some "Roll Bars" to get that Baja Look. This will be ran on the CC-1512 - 2650, Mamba Max and use either 3s or 4s Depending on where I will run it. Geared 18/56 I should be right around 50mph on 3s with my Masher 2k's and I also have some Badlands 30's (about same height at 5" ) I will most likely switch to when I get the Roll bar done. Now I should be able to mount the batteries far forward and blast on the throttle and not just wheelie all day. I would guess about 5-6 lbs when I am finished. Also, I bought a complete rebuild kit for some old 8ight shocks I had. I will rebuild them and slap em on here as well, to get a nice plush ride, 15mm shocks on a "Rustler"... Should be sweet. POST SCRIPT: Anyone know the best kind of material to make a ROLL Cage out of ? I was thinking 3/8" Nylon Rod. But I am not an expert on plastics and am unsure if there is a more suitable material? Thanks - Sean |
Some Pictures!
So here is where it starts. I have had the rustler for about 4 years and its time for a little change. It has all the hop ups I needed then and I will make it as bullet proof from here out as I can. I plan to make this a jumper, as it is very light and I will have some nice shocks on it. As you can see it is narrow but its pretty much the same width as my brother law's FLM stampede chassis.
<a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5514.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5514.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Here you can see I have 32p gears. I think its a 56t Jato spur. FLM Tranny, And if you look up in the front, you can see the posts for the front top deck are just off too far by about 1/4" <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5515.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5515.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Here is an easy fix I came up with. I will just drill two new holes in the top deck, and mount the posts 1/2" closer to the center and 1/4" back (I put the screw app. where I'll mount it). This will also be an nice battery stop when I as some sticky foam to it. I got a 20kg/cm servo. So it will be no problems steering this. I also will put on my 4mm turnbuckles I had for over a year sitting here and replace the 3mm crap... <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5518.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5518.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Another shot of the Rear. I keep the bearing carriers plastic as a weak point. I plan on tapping the arms at the hinge pins and using set screws. I have some serious slop around the holes and I dont want to send them back to FLM yet. But I probably will later and get a new full set...I also have Ofna dog bones for shafts so no worry on twisting them... <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5519.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5519.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Shot of the rear tower with an Ofna Raze wing mount. <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5516.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5516.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> The mounts that came with the FLM chassis really made this easy and solid. <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5517.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5517.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5522.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5522.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> |
A bit more...
And here is a shot of the wheelbase. It ended up at about 16.4 inches.
<a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5525.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5525.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5520.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5520.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5521.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5521.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> So I threw my old E-maxx body on for fun. I will probably bash it in half till I can come up with a roll cage, but a little shoe goo here and there I should get a dozen runs or so... Its got tape on the windows and rear from when it was muddy and I didnt want it in the car... <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5512.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5512.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> And lastly, I really like this tire combo. I think it would be perfect for a stampede 4x4... They are masher 2k's stretched onto proline 30 series rims which are like 2.8" mounted on the insisde bead like people do to the half ups. ( Inspiration ). Lo-Pro Mashers, it really gets rid of the side roll problem inherent to the 2k's because they are soooo soft. <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5513.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5513.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> |
So I finished up the electrics on the Rustler. 1512 on 4s geared 18/56. FAST. But damn near uncontrollable. The masher 2k's get absolutley no traction whatsoever when Off-road (probably because the 1512 and 4s). I might as well have just run around on just rims. :lol: So I slapped on my pin tires (Hotbodies ST tires) for my Maxx . and it handled great around our river track... Even for 2WD I was getting some good laps in. Even the GF was having fun with it, while my niece loves watching. So I ordered some Komodo LP tires, Ofna MT3 rims I will dye black, Just need to build my 8ight shocks and fill them up and slap em on, also ordered my "Rollcage" material. I went with the GS Nylatron 3/8" and I bought some .060" lexan as well to form a Body over the cage. Should be slick when its all said and done.
The 8ight has turned SC8ight. Body is mounted and looks good. Just need to rebuild my shocks and we will be rolling this weekend. I replaced all the bearing as well. The CD bearing were SOO shot, they had like 2mm play each. :gasp: Also, when I rebuilt the diffs,I used a Nova-RC cup for the CD. Rear is Losi HD cup and front just stock... And the Maxx, I rebuilt the 4 RC8 shocks with 50wt oil. I added LST2 sway bars to the rear (and it came out Fing Sweet) Just need to figure out how I will do the front sways. I also replaced all the axle carriers with new Slayer Pro knuckles and fresh bearings. And I will rebuild the diffs, When I do the front and rear diffs they will be getting Nova-RC cups as well as new AVID bearings. They have a sale on the bay right now for $6.50 a cup. (CHEAPER THAN HD PLASTIC CUP). Will get some Pictures when I find my camera. Kinda sucks I got so much stuff and I cant take any pics... All my rides are being re-done. Will post soon. -Sean |
Some new Pics and Vids
Got some pics now that the "Raja" is done.
<a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5533.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5533.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Here you can see the 1512 and if you look close you can see I had to add some maxx big bore springs inside the losi spring because I wasnt about to spend $30 on adjust collars and more springs... But they actually fit great in there and will work perfect <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5534.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5534.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5532.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5532.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Everything sits nice and low but I still get some good ground clearance. Maybe 3" or so. <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5538.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5538.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Overall... :yipi: <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5541.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5541.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5542.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5542.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Still waiting on the Nylatron, but I did get the Lexan sheet. :smile: <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5564.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5564.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> TURN YOUR SOUND DOWN. HIGH WINDS. That is grass roosts not dirt LOL http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...h_100_5570.jpg |
Some Pics of my Swaybar Setup
<a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5560.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5560.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Simple 6061 block. using existing screw holes in the chassis and a notch for the bar to go through. Then just drilled small hole in front of arm and screwed in the Pivot point. Very easy <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5561.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5561.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5559.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5559.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> The front wont work this way so I will rethink that one... But I think the rear came out good... <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5563.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5563.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Short VID - TURN SOUND DOWN, HIGH WINDS. http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...h_100_5571.jpg |
Looks good and seems to be very stable.
EDIT: both of them. |
Thanks Man. The Raja is planted really well in that grass and is friggin ballastic. That vid didnt even have any full throttle. Maybe 3/4 most. I was trying to get a run without blowing the tires off in the first 2 minutes. But the Shotty front 17mm hexes came loose. I am using some Maximizer ones meant for the Maxx. The rear is fine because the upgraded axles from FLM are 6mm but the front is just rolled with aluminum tape to get from 5mm to around 6mm... :lol: I will probably get some of the FLM ones actually meant for the front axle...
Now the Maxx is still hard to control. It really wants to kick the ass out sideways when I get in heavy on the throttle and I broke the Fing Hitec servo again! It sucks man. I am gonna rebuild the diffs with some lighter fluids this time and of course those Nova Cups F/R. I was almost able to pull a standing backflip and that was after 15 minutes of full bore running. BTW Kcaz, if you were ever gonna get one of the Nova cups. Now would be the time, They got them for less than half normal price... http://stores.ebay.com/Nova-RC-Produ...=p4634.c0.m322 Oh and I finally got the Nylatron Rod. Woohoo, Now I gotta look at some sand Rails and think how I want the bars to look. |
So I got some new goodies coming. All three rides are down but parts are OTW. Raja is getting some FLM 17mm hexes for the 5mm axles up front, as well as a new UBEC from Turnigy ($3.69 - Sweet) I also made some progress on the Roll cage. It came out OK. Not perfect or symetrical but I think it looks good and It should work alright. Just gotta attatch the "Body Panels".
The SC8ight stripped the plastic spur so I am getting a 47t Steel spur off Ebay. The ride still needs a bit of tuning in the shocks but at least It has full new Seals and bearings. The Maxx is getting some new servos. I sent the Hitec in for Repair and I am kinda disapointed with it. So I bought some Turnigy MG959 Full alloy servos. The Entire case is machined from 6061 and has metal gears. It only cost $22 and has about 190oz/in torque. So I will utilize the Dual servo slots and run two... I keep on breaking the plastic case inside the hitec... So the alloy cased servo seemed like a good option. Unless I can get a case for the Hitec machined...:neutral: Which I may look into... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=12451 |
Not much love in here lately... :oops:
Oh well... Updates anyway. Just some pics of the roll cage I made. It'll keep the dirt out that for sure... It actually drives really well, I had to make a shock preload spacer out of some 1" PVC and it didnt take the black dye well at all... But it was free and sets the spring rate just right... <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5622.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5622.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> I made one side panel able to fold down so I can get the battery out from top or side and use 2 hands doing so... See clips here: <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5621.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5621.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5623.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5623.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5624.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5624.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/?action=view&current=100_5625.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii169/reltsurlxv/100_5625.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> I will get some better shots of how its all connected later, I will have to pull off one panel and solder a new UBEC and get rid of the RX Pack. Almost finished... |
Cool rig. I was concerned at first with the length you were stretching it to, as I didn't have the greatest results with my last stretch chassis project. Glad you're happy with the hangling. Its funny seeing those big ass shocks on that truck though! A little suggestion, instead of body clips for the side panel, how about reusable zip ties. Body clips tend to get lost in rollovers, and those reusable zip ties won't take much longer to install/remove.
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http://www.supermaxx.info/images/LiVBSM1.jpg http://www.supermaxx.info/images/LiVBSM2.jpg http://www.supermaxx.info/images/LiVBSM3.jpg _________________________________________________ Anyway, your rigs are awesome! You have thought of, made, and pulled off some extremely cool mods, and man...I really like them! |
Posting your Revo pics is just plain thread jacking, at least the Lightning pics make up for it though! :lol: Just don't do it again, until you have a Razorback to show off anyway!:intello:
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Razorback...DROOOOOL!!!!
Speaking of UE Razorbacks, have you seen this bad-ass thing [here]? Candyman made every single part by hand, and ended up with a sick E-Razorback with Racer-X & VBS!!! http://www.ukmonsters.co.uk/emaxx/2011chassis/14.JPG Sorry Zippy, I didn't mean to Thread-Jack you, I just got excited...my SM does that to me! |
Thanks OverDriven! I was worried it wouldnt handle that great either. Was really just something I was playing with as I had leftover metal from the Maxx CD Mount. But it works pretty good and the Full Offset wheels kinda keep it from being too narrow and long. I bet once I get the RX pack off the front and tighten the slipper I could still pull some easy wheelies. Will have to play with that this weekend after I add the UBEC. I will look into the reusable zip ties. Great Idea. Those Clips were like $.35 each... :whistle:
Chadworks - I appreciate your comments amongst the thread jacking... :lol: Alot of time has been put into all of my rides, and I am proud of the way they came out. So thank you for noticing the details and taking the time to keep my thread up. You might recognize the Ti skids... :mdr: I got a few new things to post up later. Still need to get those better inside shots on the Raja, and the new servos for the Maxx (MG959), They really do look sweet. Almost full alloy case. I will be swapping back to a stock plastic Brushless Maxx bellcrank. The Golden Horizon one kinda sucks. It was designed off the original 3905 saver and doesnt "give" when the servo needs it. Its more of a " V " as opposed to " U " I tried to sand it round but really just messed it up. GH needs to update the design. A UE saver would be good but its too much $$. |
Chad, I was just messing with you, you didn't have to delete the Revo pics. Those are some sweet trucks you have there and I don't mind seeing them. Yes I've seen Candyman's Razorback, extremely drool worthy.
As are your trucks Zippy. As much as I enjoy the eye candy, home brew ingenuity takes the cake in my book. My old Tmaxx was like that, nothing was just bolted on, everything was rubbed on in some way. That's probably why my current Emaxx is kinda boring to me. I'm going to have to wild on it soon. Speaking of Maxx trucks. Did your Golden Horizon servo saver come with a spri g or did you have to reuse the stocker? My stocker is so loose it's ridiculous and I'd hate to buy another stock spring and have it be weak like my current one. |
Necessity is the mother of all invention. Right? I NEEDED :lol: all those upgrades. I actually have as much fun making stuff like the CD mount as I do racing sometimes. I get so excited thinking of the next step. Keeps me up at night. :lol: Plus doing it this way is a lot easier on the wallot. $13.50 got me a CD Mount and a Chassis. :smile:
and No the GH uses the Stock Spring... I used the stiffer black one the silver was mushy. But I do not like the GH because of the not actually doing its job of "SAVING" the servo. My Hitec 7950 Ti gear has broke the middle case 4 times and Luckily Hitec was cool enough to send me a whole new Ti gear set. I have actually worn 1/16" of slop inside the gears. They look like a pinion gear after a lot of use... like the teeth are sharp. not flat and even. I do not recommend it. Oh and thats the other thing about rides like Chads. I could never do the stuff I do to Mr. Maxx. I will have to get vids of the other park. Huge hills and Jumps... |
hmmm, didn't know there was a black and a silver spring for the Maxx servo saver, I'm going to have to look into that. I know trying to shim the one thats in there now is next to impossible I've tried.
Yea its always fun making, modifying, and stuffing an rc with stuff it never should've had to begin with. Then going out and driving it like you stole it, I mean "testing" the modifications out :intello: |
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At least you get it with "testing" if it doesn't survive the 1st or 2nd pack what good is it? :neutral: |
Zippy, so those are my old Ti Skids, huh...heh! I hope they are holding up well for you!
Overdriven, I kind of figured you were just kidding, but it really was wrong of me to post so many pictures of my rides in Zippy's Thread, especially posting Revo Pics in a Maxx Thread, so I just removed them to keep the focus on Zippy's rides! Zippy, what is the inside & outside diameter of your servo-saver spring? I have all three different weight springs for the UE GenIV Servo-Saver that you could have (or you can get them from the UE Store) if they will fit. I don't know if they will help, but you never know! Plus, I believe I have all of the parts in my multiple parts boxes required to build a complete UE GenIV Servo-Saver (minus the Ti Drag-Link) I could send your way pretty cheaply if you want...I will just have to locate everything, which is all scattered among my many parts boxes and work bench drawers! |
Chad - If and when you do find those Saver parts shoot me a PM with a price. I May take you up on that if the price is right.
Man I went and ran a pack through this weekend on the newly rebuilt diffs. CRAP, I locked/blew the rear diff on the first run. Nova cup actually failed. The pins that hold the 4 spider gears mashed into the sidewall on the Diff Cup. Therefore locking the diff and chipping some of the gears teeth. But you should have seen the "doughnuts" I was doing. It was literally like a Gyro, the faster I gassed it, the faster it spun. Spun so fast It was just a big blur. :lol: Crazy. So new Bevel gears are OTW and I will just go back to the Losi HD cup (on the rear). What a shame. The CD is holding up OK. |
No prob man...I found the springs, just gotta find the rest of the parts!
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I thought the same thing about the Aluminum Nova Cups Being bulletproof. The rear cup is useless after 1 pack and I just took the CD cup out to refill with a lighter fluid and give it a thorough inspection and it actually is starting to wear pin slots in the side of the cup as well...(at least a dozen runs or so) I can try to get a picture but Its not that cool :lol: Well there goes $40.
I will just go back to the Losi XXL HD plastic cup. I looked at the one I was using for over a year in the rear diff and it looks new...:whip: the ring and pinion also look brand new. :neutral: I guess those little metal inserts in the XXL really save the cup. I think a CNC cup designed after the XXL cup would be bulletproof, but not cheap to get CNC'd... |
Weird though since people have no issues with the nova cup at all. A 7075 cup cant be that soft. When exactly did you buy the cup? FYI, Nova changed the material to 6061 recently. Are yours 6061 of the 7075?
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