I guess :)

And I also wonder if it matters a whole lot if the 1 cm of material is moved up above the batteries and then the battery bay is inserted as a skidplate?

To be continued tomorrow :)

Probably not. If you look at my thread thats exactly what I had arrived at as a plan of action.. at least until I decided to switch gears and just use a truggy as the base platform (trying to turn a savage into a truggy and then into a 5th scale buggy seemed to be a lot of unnecessary work).

That's a darn big motor.

Hehe just skimmed your thread... its more or less the same plan... except for the 5th scale bugy part :)

firstly i love the lipo placement... im sure you can come up with a way to protect them!!!

You are going from an already overkill 1717 to an out runner? what sort of specs is it? kv? max rpm or lipo cells? It is HUGE! will you need a new centre diff setup?

No no :)

The outrunner is a project on its own with direct to F/R diff connection. The battery placement will be identical for the two setups (CD+1717 & Huge ass outrunner).

The spec's are here: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=2097

Gunning for 38mph @ 6 cells and 57mph @ 9 cells... according to the speed calc.

Regarding the battery placement Im not that concerned. I'll make sure the skid plate protrude a bit to each side under the battery. With that and a set of 40 series mashers on each side Id say they aren't that exposed. Once I blow a battery up I'll look into better protection ;)

WOW 280kv! THAT IS LOOOOWWWW you could push a bloody 30lbs baja easily with that...

So these outrunners do not require a diff as the shafts from F&R diff go directly to the motor?

Yep thats the plan. There are a few of these outrunner direct to diff conversions around here if you want to read a bit about them :)

Im a little concerned about the start up of the truck... which is also why we picked a BIG motor with low KV and alot of poles.

CD & motor mount done. Nothing Fancy. Should be able to accept down to 10T pinions - might need to file down 3 of the ribs on the engine for that. Engine plate is 6mm. hope it will hold the 1717 alright... time will tell ;)

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301396758
The circular hole in the motor plate is proff that we consider the environment and recycle as best we can :)

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301396758

Nice work on the mount!!! Clean job!!!

i have also been doing some gearing calculations... and it looks like i may need to run a 9-10t pinion!

I really dont like the idea of running something so small... it will wear quickly wont it? especially with the brushless power...

More or less ending up in a G-Maxx layout I think... Question is if I should keep the cut out and try to get the bats as close to the dogbone as possible or simply use the TVPs as sidewall in the battery "tray". Having the bats outside would leave plenty of room for the wires ;)

Cut out placement:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301397323

Bats outside TVPs:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301397323

Pretty low CoG:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301397323

Skidplate mounting to the front bulkhead. Using the 4 existing screws in that area. Just swapping them to slightly longer counter sunk screws. the rear will bolt with 4 screws into the CD mount (CD mount will bolt into TVPs with 8 screws)
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301397323

Expecting to use 3mm alu for the skidplate and trim TVPs/skid as best I can to loose weight at a later time.

Brian G's speed calc gives me theese figures when I run 40 series mashers (6.6 inches) and add 0.25 of ballooning. They are belted... hope it will last ;)

Anyway, the speeds come out like this:
10T 44.22 mph
11T 48.64 mph
12T 53.06 mph
13T 57.48 mph
14T 61.90 mph

No clue on wear... but I my 13T pinion didn't wear too bad last season (Robinson racing). Have 9-10-11T Novak pinion in the mail :)

hmmm i would look to gear 12t or so....according to those numbers...
Doubt you should have any probs with heat issues running such a bit motor and 6s.

I would personally like to have the batteries half inside the chassis... But it could make strapping them in a little awkward?

That mount is great. I'll definitely be copying that for my Savage. I want to try using 3/8 lexan though since I have a lot of it laying around.

Looking forward to a lexan version Brm4life :)

Jahay, your right. Moving the bats too far out on the sides will mess up more than it will fix... I was hell bend on having the wires inside the TVPs but in reality it doesn't matter. Will flip the batteries 180° and push them as close to the center as possible. Strapping will be solved... somehow... ;)

Look what the new 3D printer coughed up with :)

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301496771

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301496771

Its nothing short of amazing that you can do prototyping this way!

nice!

I like the extended parts, help distribute the load on the XL axle. However there is still a problem with the XL (and X) axle with the pin being so close to the threads; with the bigger wheels I snapped a bunch of XL axles at where the threads meet the rest of the axle. If you are making parts, I'd really look to replacing the XL axle with a truggy style axle; or at very least look to putting another hole in the axle further up the axle and using a truggy hex adapter or truggy axle extender, sorta like what I did with the XL axles to mount the Baja 5B 24mm hex hubs.

Seems like we need to push the rear bearing a bit back - 1mm should do.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301496965

Might have to push the whole front a bit. That dogbone has a fair bit of play!

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301496965

In the front we need to adjust the opposite way... fun :)

We also need to shave off a good bit of material... because as it is we have 2° steering throw in both directions... we need as much as the standard setup and then some!

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301496965

This is where the pin hole should be positioned.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1301496965

Something like the hex for the RC8T (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVKH7&P=Z) is what I was thinking of. If I could find someone that could drill a pin hole (perpendicular to the existing one) so that the end of the RC8T hex nut is within .5mm of the bearing, I would be happy.

that is so impressive! Im loving these 3d printers!!!

How long and how much is it to print a single hub like that? Also how fragile are those 3d prints???

To get rid of the xl axle, why not make use of the savage 5t truggy style axle. And build this hub to that specification so the pin is in the perfect place?

I'm actually about to do that right now. Got access to a drill press at work, just need to get some time to do it.

This is the how to video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEZDk_0iNBk

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEZDk_0iNBk[/YOUTUBE]

That would be a good idea too, but can you even get those anymore? Thought they discontinued the S5T... and I know you can't find them in the states. Thats why I proposed my solution which is similiar but uses existing easily attainable parts.

oh yea... i keep forgetting that these parts were europe specific... and yes i had a little look, they are now discontinued

Thank you for the constructive feedback! :)

At the moment Im doing changes which will bolt onto existing HPI savage parts. Im at E-Savage v3.0... perhaps v4.0 will start adapting parts from other trucks.

For a moment you had me worried that there would be slop in the hex, pin, axle, bolt, wheel setup. But after rechecking Im feeling better... when the bolt is tightened firmly the wheel is sitting rock solid on the axle... no slop, no nothing. The only issue is that Thzero experienced axle breakage when running BIG wheels. The truggy adapter would help in this area... but then we would be back to a situation where the two bearings sit very close to eachother. So I'll go along with the standard axles and see how it pans out.

Jahay, I think the process time is about 2-3 hours. The plastic is quite hard but I do not know if it is strong enough to be used for anything more than prototyping... again time will tell. Otherwise we'll have to have them made in aluminium. The granulate used is a little expensive... but as it is a new machine in the toolshop, the guys have to use it to get experience in what they can and can't do. Might as well do wide hubs/knuckles instead of random test samples :whistle:

Yeah, I've had one or two go boom on my nitro truck that is running 3.8" Big Joes with some beadlocks, and on some Baja 5B tires. I've yet to run into the issue with the 3.8" Trenchers now that I'm running my Flux in 'standard mode' with standard Flux axles.

Any recommendations in regards to a good pivot ball / rod end combo?

Im not 100% sure of the servo placement yet but Im sure I can find or fab a rod that fits my needs... as long as the ball / rod end have no slack and is able to handle 40 series wheels I'll be in good shape.

Working assumption is to have the servo laying flat on top of the batteries... might as welll place it low now that I can.

That is hardly a how-to video. Nowhere in that video does he say anything about how to do it.

Sorry but that is impossible to do on a drill press. Try a bridgeport.

Hadn't see that video before, but that was my plan. Had something done similiarly already for the Baja 5B hubs.

You're right. It was very difficult with a drill press. The fact the hubs have 6 sides makes it impossible to clamp them in a vise with the pin hole vertical. I gave it a shot anyway. Some of the 17mm hub pin holes got a little widened (either due to bit wobble or some other crap), but I think they should hold up. I only had one pair of hubs at the time with another set on order. I'll have to drill those hubs out a little bit for the pin to fit and only time will tell if it all holds up.'

Anyway, here's one done.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...x/CIMG0608.jpg

Nice.

I guess this build ended up in a quest for a god damn low CoG... did we get there?

Well, for a Savage Id say we did :)

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1303885821

Motor, ESC, Servo, 2,4GHz RX placement:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1303886056

The battery compartment in spe:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1303886056

The cut outs in the TVPs will be 155mm x 32mm... thats enough to fit most LiPo's out there... horizontal of course :yes:

Hmm lol the frontal part is sitting upside down... the dogbone cut out is supposed to open the part in the top... good morning! ;)

Judging from rough mock ups the balance of the truck is pretty good... slightly tilted forward... but only slightly.

The batteries will rest against the U-shaped alu part in the center line... which will protect dogbone from bats or is it the other way round? 10T pinion fitted on the motor :)

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1303886956

Servo setup:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1303886956

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1303886956

WOW that looks awesome and very solid!... also maybe a little heavy??? Could you maybe have braced the centre diff plates straight to the tvps???

I really cant wait to see how the lipo relocation works out!!!

AWESOME STUFF!

Finally got around to it... TVP's cut to allow horizontal battery placement:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1304504828

Batteries inserted:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1304504828

They protrude 2 - 2½ cm to the sides:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1304504828

Im thinking that two vertical straps going from the skid plate to the TVP might be the best way to secure the bats...

Another idea is a "gorilla style" strap going from the front of the cut out to the end. It should push the batteries inwards and against the U-shaped dog bone guard.

Need a bit of counter sinking, final servo placement, wireing and a custom dogbone... then Im good to go :)

Ohh... also need to drill the side holes in the CD mount and thread them... 12 m3 screws should hopefully do it!?

Weight reducing this build will be looked at once Im up and running :)

this is such an awesome setup! I love it! As long as you can maintain enough structural rigidity and lose enough weight, this will handle so well for a savage!!!

I wish my current build, utilised a similar setup!
You now have plenty of space to mount things above the lipos! Maybe even a large 12s ESC ;) and have the battery slots large enough to take a 4-5s lipo each ;) And a huge motor in the rear haha

Anyway loving it!

Took the G-Savage for a test run and it handles MUCH better than it did last year!! :)

Since I havent balanced the new wheel/rim bombo I ran the old terra pins... still feels a little like driving an elephant on stilts at high speeds - but much less than last year! Im hoping the Mashers will perform better due to the lower side wall (and taping).

Turning radius is absolutely great (tho I dont really understand why a CD help in this area? This was especially noticeable when I let got of the gas and turned at reasonable speeds the truck would turn on a dime! Sweet :)

Will have to play with CD oil... couldn't make the damn thing wheelie no matter what I did! Need to find the golden optimum between handling and MT behaviour!

Will update with some pictures once wireing is done nicely :)

And I still have to figure out how to secure the bats... strapping tape around the TVP's doesn't look good at all... but it works ;)

I have some untaped 40 series masters on my xl length flux and they handle much better than I expected. They handle great for being such large tires. Also, I have mine mounted to some axial beadlock rims.

For my XL length build with CD:-
100K CD fluid - difficult to wheelie and sustain.
500K fluid - easy to wheelie but can be hard to sustain as front wheels still spin up a bit.
Ofna diff lock fluid - v.close to feel of the stock gearbox. easy to wheelie and sustain.

A quick picture of the fatty's ground clearance with Terra pins. I put 1½cm of fuel tube inside the shocks in order to get horizontal "arms"

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1305019722

Here they are:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1305019891

Thus I have an "on-road" as well as an "off-road" shock set :)

The truck weights in at 6,5kg (14,33 pounds) with the 1717, terra pins and 2 x 5800mAh Turnigys