The slayer shafts would fit directly to the pede 4x4 diffs. But you do need some sort of spacer to take up the slack between the output and the diff. Are revo outputs slightly shorter than the pedes? I will have to eyeball the expolded diagrams.

You can replace the revo/slayer stub axle with the axles from the old maxx. Then all you need is a 6x10 bushing to fit inside of the tekno inner bearing. Already tried to figure out a way to use the tekno hubs to my benefit. May just buy a set and try, as that will be easier than just about anything else.

Ok, here are the destruction pics. The motor side rear diff output last all of 2 packs, and the other side rear output made it thru about 20mins more. The other shaft is the maxx 2.5 one that I grenaded last night. I replaced it with another just like it and we will see.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4803.jpg

I also removed the rear diff and filled it with traxxas 50k diff fluid. Seems a bit better, does not go "one wheel" during wheelies as much as it used to.

Now I did some tinkering with my selection of cvds. Since I have gone to 6x12 bearing I can run any cvd for an older maxx truck, but they will be too long. So i figured i would get a cheap "shiny" set of ebay, and cut them down. I have had good success with these cvds, I have them in the 6x6 maxx and they work fine. I have also cut/welded them before with good success. I would like to find an "off the shelf" option, so i will research that too.

Ok, figured how to make a useable cvd setup.

Big mixture of parts here, I had all of it laying around. There may be a better way to do this, but I do not have the parts to make it happen at hand.

So start by picking up a set of original emaxx center cvds : http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-E-Maxx-1...item53de2b8356

And 2 lst axles, these are lst1 parts, the sliver and black ones have different handed threads, so one would be better placed on the right side and the other on the left, to keep the wheel nuts from backing off. I am not sure which is which but will check.

http://cgi.ebay.com/LOSI-LOSB3503-FR...item43a15e64eb

http://cgi.ebay.com/LOSI-LOSB3504-FR...item3ef83edcff

Now the emaxx cvd shafts will fit with the lst axles. So well they must be exactly the same. You can even use the rubber boots that come with the maxx cvds, nice to keep the grease in.

Now the lst axles are 6mm, so you will have to be running 6mm bearing and enlare the hexes to 6mm.

And the lst axle is too long, so you need to make/find a 7.5mm long 6mm id spacer to slide over the lst axle before you put it in the hub. This places the axle pin hole just where you need it, and should allow for a traxxas 6mm id teflon washer to fit between the pin and the outer bearing. The spacer also places the dog bone end of the cvd the correct distance in the drive cup.

Here is the issue, I tried a bunch of different loose drive cups that I had laying around. The ones that came with the emaxx cvd kit are too shallow, and the slots are not cut deep enough into the cup. They were 5mm id so the bolted up directly to the 5mm diff outputs on the stampy (kinda weird, as I though emaxx pinions were 6mm od, so the cups should have been that size?). So I tried a bunch more and found some diff cups from a no name brand of revo cvds. They are 6mm id, so you will have to swap the stampy diff outputs over to revo diff outputs (those are 6mm).

So not optimum, but workable. And you end up with stuff designed for a much bigger truck, so they "should" last.

I have had excellent success with the cvds that I linked, even though they are not name brand.

Pics on the way.

Picture time!!!

Ok, these show the lst axle with the spacer so that the emaxx center cvd will sit correctly in the revo diff output cup.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4804.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4805.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4806.jpg


And these show the spacer on the other side of the hub, this will not work with the emaxx cvd, but if you had a 8mm longer cvd it would. I plan to cut and weld a lst cvd and use the lst axle this way. I can run a 2wd pede rear wheel (different offset to the 4x4 pede, as it uses 2wd pede front wheels all around) and give the other 2 front wheels i have back to my 1/7th scale pede based tube buggy. With the 8mm spacer on the outside the 2wd rear wheels have excatly the same width as the stock 4x4 pede setup. Nice how that worked out.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4807.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4808.jpg

Not sure what to do with the front, but I think the stock sliders will be just fine. After the few packs i have run they are not worn or twisted at all. If they do crap out I will likely mod up some lst cvd/axles to work there as well.

Or I could use old tmaxx cvd axles and the lst cvd shafts cut and welded. Here is a pic that shows the old maxx axles v/s the lst axle. As you can see the maxx axle is much shorter and the pin hole is closer to the cvd joint.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4809.jpg

Just in case anyone was wondering, the spacer I use was a cable stop that I found at the local hardware store. It is made of al, and is designed to be crimped on a cable, looks like the stock hole in it is about 1/4". All I did was drill it out to 6mm with a 6mm drill bit. It was just the right length, right at 8mm. Depending on how you mod your hubs to handle the 6x12 bearings you may have to sand some material off this spacer, or add a shim or 2. Fow me it was just about right, I removed some material so I could use a 6mm id traxxas teflon washer behind the axle pin.

Dang, you must have been hard at it today. But it looks like you have it figured out. Now I guess only running them can tell if they will work good. You better try 6s, just to be sure.

Yes, went thru alot of parts to figure this out...

I have a feeling that if I use 1/10 and 1/8 mt parts i can have a solid setup. I did run a lst quite a bit with the stock lst1 parts before going to lst2 parts and the old stuff was decent. Considering this truck maybe weighs 6lbs I have a feeling it will be fine.

Now I have to pull the diff, change the outputs, and reinstall with the revo cups. And cut/weld the shafts. I may try to find some steel tube to sleeve them, not really necessary but i will take a look. And I will make 2 more 6mm id al spacers, using the drill press this time. I did the 1st with a cordless drill and the vise and it is not quite perfect.

Still waiting on the 12mm endmill to mod the other hub. I would really like to use the rpm hubs i have as they are a much better fit with the lower hingepin (stock hubs are really sloppy fit) but the rpm hubs do not have much meat on the sides to bore out for the 6x12 bearings. I will have to measure them carefully and see if they can be modded.

Picked up some 1/4" steel brake line, slightly too big for the lst shaft. I think welding will be fine, but I would like to find a decent tube should I want to extend any of these shafts. They are great for center cvds, as the lst1 wheels shafts, and all of the other center lsoi shafts can be swapped on the various cvd cups and axles.

great work lic, i went the easy way and just bought tekno's, but if i kill the tekno's i will have to build some hybrids since i have alot of lst and maxx cvds laying around too

Harold will be jealous ? :whistle:

Something you might not know about brake line: In the last year or so they changed the metal it is made out of and it is softer than the stuff they had in the past. They did this so it will bend easier and it also is able to bend back straight and not kink or tear like the old stuff. The reason i bring this up is because it might not be as strong as you need. I actually built my own brake system for my drag car last winter without the use of a tubing bender, just my hands, something i was never able to do before with older stuff. Just an FYI.

Honestly, I don't know why you guys say things like that.

Anyway... Looking good snuggle bunny!! err... umm... Lincpimp:whistle:

OK linc, just go ahead and change your lady parts to Harold's muppet.

There was something else relevant I was going to add, but now I can't get those dang muppets out of my head.

Yeah, it does seem different. I remember brake line was zinc coated this stuff is painted. I will have to look online and see if I can get a high grade of steel tube, maybe even hardened.

For these cvds I just plan to cut and weld them. They should be just fine.

Dont know if you have a LHS or not but most have building materials IE a assortment of Stainless tubing. Thats what I use when making my own axles and it works very well. The biggest PITA is getting them to spin straight and true befor you weld them solid.

I have not welded stainless before. What equiment do you use to weld it? Currently I have a mig setup for steel, and the god ole gas torch mainly used for heating and some cutting.

Nothing fancy needed, SS welds beautifully with reg mig.

what wire do you use?

My welder is a smaller 110v/130a Miller and the small spools are kinda pricey so I get what evers on sale or cheapest at the welding supply store.

You have to use stainless wire, right? I was under the impression that was what was needed. Also, do you use argon/co2 mix or is the wire flux core? We weld at work with no flux core wire and argon/co2, but that is for regular sheet steel.

SS wire is not needed, unless you want the weld to not rust ?
Argon/CO2 is all I use brother.

Your set, get to welding your shiz !

Alright. Well I may weld up one shaft cvd today to check fit. Waiting on the endmill so I can mod the hub on the other side.

I really need to clean up the bench, might do that 1st. Hard to find a place to work!!!

For something that small you are going to want TIG, You also want to use argon and sst welding wire. If you use standard mig wire it will be weak as all get out. Mig is fine for large materiat and structure, but for fine work it sucks. Stainless is very strong even getting a tack broken loose is a pain. Stainless will move on you as well. It warps easily if you are not used to working with it. If you need I could weld you up anything you need in sst. I do everything from 20 gauge sheet metal to 3/8" 100% through welds.

Jeff

Yeah, I had read a fair amount about welding stanles a while back, and thought that tig was the way to go. Thanks for the info, and your weld is beautiful!!!

I may have to take you up on that offer. I have a lst based 6th scale buggy project in the "brainstorming" phase and I will need a front shaft made up out od a lst cvd. Can you weld stainless to steel, as I can imagine the lst shaft is chromed steel. I doubt it is stainless. I had to cut it with a fiber disk, the saw would not touch it so it must be hardened, or maybe stainless...

A good way to tell if something is hardened or not is to run a file across it. If it bites in it's not hardened if it slides across it like glass it is. Mild can be welded to stainless, but you need to use stainless rod. I use 316 rod 1/16" diameter for most things, but for something that small I just use 316 mig wire. One thing about Stainless is that it cannot be hardened like mild steel can it can be work hardened, but not hardened. Take stainless knives for instance they never hold an edge like a steel blade will.

Stainless it a very strange metal, it's soft yet hard at the same time and it's very gummy to machine, unless you use Carbide bits then it cuts like butter.

I don't see why I couldn't do it I make rollers for conveyors out of 11ga (.120") and they are always straight, and if they are not I nudge them into shape. :wink: They usually turn between about 400 and 850 rpm and we use then for conveyors with a scale under it, and we weigh all the way down to a gram and any vibration gets transfered to the scale throws off the weight so I think I can handle it. Send me a sketch and I'll put it into Autocad to make sure it's exactly what you want.

You can usually find sst tube and rod in most hardware stores, along with brass copper and extruded tubes and such.

Jeff

This cvd must be hardened, a file would not bite and the bandsaw would barely scratch it.

May take me a few weeks but I will get back to you. Do you think welding a rod in the middle of a cut cvd would be best, or welding a slip fit tube to the 2 pieces? I plan to cut one of these same cvds down and weld it in the center, I guess I will see how that goes and report back.

Very nice weld J57, I have seen a lot of stainless welds in my career and that is top notch for sure.

What grade stainless is that?

Made a cvd tonight out of and lst1 driveshaft. Cut the center out and made a cvd shaft 70mm long fron the center of the ball end to the center of the drivepin on the bone end. Fits nicely, could have gone up to 72mm before it would bind in the cup at full up travel. Welded together with a mig, this stuff is hard, but when I got it hot the metal welded very well.

Well, I think the rear shocks need 1/4" or so of fuel tubing to limit the up travel. Right now the suspension can go up enough to get the cvd in a bind at the drive cup. So I will do that before running it again.

I also put revo outputs in the pede 4x4 diff, so I could use 6mm bore drivecups from a revo. Straight drop in mod. I did notice the diffs are not the newest revo spec units with the center support. They are the older original revo diffs. Not likely to be an issue, but there is upgrade potential there.

And before anyone asks, I doubt I can fit a lst diff in there!!!

Just waiting on the 12mm endmill, so I can properly mod the other hub. Then I will check that side and make another driveshaft. I have a feeling I will have the inner bearing seated in a bit more so the cvd shaft may end up longer. Not a problem, as the current parts are prototypes and can be modded if necessary.

I guesss I should have mentioned I have a mill too. Lol Sounds like you got it together, but if you need anything welded or fabbed let me know. I have been watching your build since I am buying one of those rollers too and was worried about the drive system.

Thanks for the compliment. That material was 316 and was used as a stand for an enclosure we made for a company that makes turkey bacon. I actually had to make 16 of them. They have been in for 2 years now and even with the caustic cleaning solution they still look brand new.

The material is finished before it's welded. Raw SST is really rough and it takes a bit of grinding to get it to put that brushed and polished finish on it.

We use a tool called a Dynisher (it's basically a 7" bench grinder with the head rotated 90, and an inflatable bladder, like a slick, then you put a short sanding belt, then finish with a scotchbrite belt). You might have seen one before.

Jeff

Very nice. Most of what we dealt with was bending strip in to large rings, welding them and making it look like there was no weld. This were pressure rings for metallic gaskets. Everything from 304 and 316 to inconel's, hastelloy's, tantalum, etc. Most of these welds had to be x-rayed per the specs. The rings really were only grinded on the welds to be smooth and seamless.

We don't do any of the exotics but for corrosion resistance and for the price point nothing beats 316. Actually I am not even a welder, (I'm the service manager) I just started seeing the frames we were buying from other vendors and they were always so out of shape we couldn't use them. Not even Boropark could build a frame that was straight. I ended up bitching so much about them that I said I could do a better job. My boss said see what you need so the next thing I know I was the welder. So along with my other responsibilities I was welding and fabbing most everything we make. Finally we started looking for a welder that was good at stainless. I went through 5 guys before I found a good one. My only requirement was that he was better than I am. :lol:

Jeff

Linc have you fired up that beast yet?

Yeah, good welders are hard to find, awesome welders are scarce. I had the privilege of having an awesome work for me for a while, the stuff he did was amazing.

I would have thought it wouldn't be that hard to find a decent welder. I only set up 2 tests. T 2 pieces of 2X2" .120 wall, weld all the way around and the pieces could not have less than .002" over a 12" length using a straight edge. I set the machine to 0 on all the settings and disconnected the cables and told them that if they wern't used to the machine let me know, and I'll help. 3 guys couldn't even get the polarity correct and the other kept sticking the tungsten to the work and couldn't even form a puddle. The last guy ended up doing a good job.

The very next day he needed a piece of 3/8" thick 2" X 4" but we didn't have any. He ended up welding 2 smaller pieces of 3/8" together and with a straight edge I could not tell they were 2 different pieces. I told my boss "We gotta keep him."

Jeff

Just picked up a stick welder today after not touching one for ~15 years :lol:

Didn't do too bad, but I admit not nearly as nice as I used to do...:whistle:

I have not, still waiting on the endmill so I can "properly" mod the other hub carrier.

I also found some more cvd drive cups and may use them instead of the revo ones I had laying around. We shall see. Still thinking 71 or 72mm would do.

Now keep in mind if you plan to do that and want to keep the stock rear wheels and do not have the lst driveshafts, you can use old maxx cvds (for the 2.5 tmaxx or 3906 emaxx) and they have the correct length axles to use the stock pede 4x4 rear wheels.

I am using the lst axles casue my pede 4x4 came as a chassis and I robbed the wheels off 2 of my other pedes, and would like to put one of them back together.

If you buy the same ebay brand maxx cvds off ebay the lst axles wil also fit. So you could swap them out and use either wheel, or run the lst axles and stock wheels for a 8mm track width increase per side.

So I received my Tekno's. I thought they would be beefier. Here they are in the middle, with a Stampede 2wd MIP, same size and a Savage SS dogbone.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../395216017.jpg

Installed easy, and the outputs and axles do look strong. Along with the carriers.

I have to say the SCT combo has been pretty good on 2s. For the long term, My plan is the 3800 motor, with a different esc on 3s, but I'm kinda testing the limits of the Sidewinder, just to see. Plus my Gens 5000mah 40c 3s shows up Monday, and none of my other 3s fit, so 2s > 0s . I'm currently running ZombieMaxx 320s tires, which are smaller then stock, but have these coming, http://prolineracing.com/tires/trenc...n-truck-tires/ I started conservative, but am now running 17/54, and radared at 42mph. With temps around 60 ambient, and relatively aggresive driving, had temps at 135esc, and 125 motor, with no fan. I have to admit I was surprised. I thought the esc would be to hot at anything over 35ish.

i ran the tekno's all last summer with no problems on a 4x4 slash (i know lighter tire and less stress) they are more beefy that the cvds on my 8ight-t so i do think they are over kill on these little trucks

Well the lst cvds I am modding are the same size as the X dogbones. So the teknos should be fine, as long as the cups on the axles are up to the task and do not wear or shatter.

I know lst cvds are good, I have run those alot, in much heavier trucks with more power. Never broke one, or wore the axles out, they are very hard material. I have worn pins and eventually the cvd shaft, but that was cause the pin wore out and caused alot of slop. The cup looked like new, the holes for the pin did not wear. I was impressed.

Ok, my 4 flute 12mm endmill arrived today. I will try to make some progress tomorrow after work. I need to figure a way to hold the rear hub without distorting it, but make sure it stays parallel to the cutting face of the endmill. I have a few ideas.

What does the hub look like? I might have a vice I can loan you.

Jeff