Have you guys ever looked at the 103450 size lithium ion batteries? These is what I use in my Transmitters. 3 of the fit easily in my airtronics. I harvest them from old laptop batteries.

http://www.sabahoceanic.com/WebRoot/...40663450_m.jpg

my RedCat came with the FS-GT2
but the FS-GT3B is WAY better .

the responce time on the FS-GT3B is sweet 0 lag
and the LCD display is fine you just dont see a backlight in it when your outside.

capacity?

it looks Small

Thickness : 10.5mm
Width : 33.8mm
Height : 48.8mm
Weight : 38.5g



:eyes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sanyo-6-7Wh-UF10...item2c59a22d02

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/28...n_Battery.html

SHENZHEN VICTPOWER TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD.
KING-TRONICS INTERNATIONAL ELECTRONICS CO.,LTD.(HK)
UF103450P SANYO 103450 1800mAh Li-ion Rechargeable Battery cell
Product Description
Cell Type : UF103450P
Nominal Capacity : Min. 1800mAh
Nominal Voltage : 3.7V
Charging Method: CC-CV
Charging Voltage: 4.2V
Charging Current: Std. 1800mA
Charging Time: 2.5hrs
Ambient Temperature:
Charge: 0---+40
Discharge: -20---+60
Storage: -20.--+50
Volumetric Energy Density: 401Wh/l
Gravimetric Energy Density: 180Wh/kg

Application
Audio visual equipment,
Cellular phones,
Office automation,
Notebook PC's,
PDA's and handy terminals.


I think i will stay with polymer.

I charge the little buggers at 2.5-3Amps. Capacity is around 1800mah. It's not like I play for 4 hours straight, so capacity is not really a concern for me.

2.5 to 3A looks alittle high of a charge rate for this type of cell ...........

But if it works for ya thats the Main thing.

I took 8 of the little light blue LG Lithium-Ion 3.3v 1200mAh batteries out of 8 of my old LG cell phones and made a 4S2P pack (13.2v @ 2400mAh) out of them that is very light, has great power & capacity, and works awesome in my Profile (Foamy) R/C Air-Planes!

I charge it at 4.8 Amps (2C) with no problems and no over-heating, and it charges in about 15-20 minutes. I fly the plane until it starts to hesitate instead of being snappy and then bring it down for a recharge.

I am collecting batteries from everyone's old cell phones and will soon have 8-10 awesome (FREE) Li-Ion battery packs that are perfect for my Foamies! The only bad thing is, you can't run them in a car or truck, unless it is 1/24 scale or so (which I am building a 1/24 scale Jeep Wrangler Crawler powered by 2 of the Li-Ion cells "2S1P 6.6v @ 1200mAh"), because they just don't have the output-current required by larger cars and trucks.

If you want to use the technology in a big car or truck, where full-discharge and/or over-charge won't hurt the cells, and you don't need a balancer or anything, get LiFe-Po/Li-Fe (A123) cells...they are great for large 1/10 & 1/8 vehicles!

I purchased this same radio a couple months ago and have hit and miss luck with it at best. This thread has inspired me to trouble shoot and disassemble it.

The first few times I used it it worked flawlessly, slowly but surely It started acting up. I thought at first it was the ESC because the RC would cog and hardly move backwards. Then I tried reprograming the TX to the ESC and never could get the reverse function to work again regardless what I did. At best the reverse would work as described earlier as cogging and no power. A different radio and RX and everything worked perfect. I then tried the 6 different Flysky RX's I have and all did the same, then I tried multiple ESC's and the problem presists. I firmly believe it's the Forward and Reverse switch on the TX. I've removed it and sent a email to Flysky asking if this part can be purchased seperately. I would like to test this at home but have no idea how. Can this switch be found at the local RadioShack ?

I don't care for the manufacture charge limits. There is always a margin they have to go by. I charge all my batteries at 3-4C rates. There is no point of me waisting my time waiting on batteries to charge, just so I can get the most lifecycles out of my pack. If I get 2 years use out of them, I'm good. By then there are newer better cells on the market to mess with. But I wouldn't be so daring with most of the battery cells if I didn't have the FMA Powerlab 8 charger.

Bondo, I would put a soldering iron on all the connectors, just to eliminate cold solder joints. Then you can open up your "switch" aka potentiometer and clean it out. I use to spray just plain wd40 in those things for lubrication and cleaning.

Doing as you suggest now, Thanks Snell.

OK, After hitting all connections with solder iron and wd40 the switch it's still the same :diablo:
Reverse has no power at all and stutters, again this happens with all 6 Flysky Receivers regardless what ESC is being used.

Was worth a shot, thanks anyway Snell

Click on Pic for Video
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...smitter001.jpg

use an ohm meter to see what rating the potentiometer has, or to see if it is malfunctioning (resistance should gradually change as you rotate the dial).

Like brainanator suggested, measure between one of the outer legs to the middle leg and see if the resistance changes smoothly as you rotate the pot. Might want to do the same except with the other outer leg and the middle leg (resistance will change opposite). Go slow when adjusting/measuring though because it may be difficult to see irregular changes on a meter. The pot could simply be "noisy", which may not be visible on a meter; this could cause havoc with the radio electronics too.

That pot looks like a fairly standard part. Even mounts using the shaft collar. Depending on the value, a replacement may be available at RadioShack. To get the value, simply measure the resistance across the two outer legs (the middle is the "wiper"). If RS does have the matching value, make sure it is "linear taper", not "audio taper" (the audio taper resistance changes exponentially to compensate how humans perceive sound). The power rating is irrelevant for what it is being used for as long as the replacement is close to the same size (no PCB mount pots :smile:).

You might also want to see how much extra room (if any) is available around the pot once installed in the radio in case the replacement is physically larger.

Then, it's just a matter of swapping the pots. You could eliminate extra points of potential failure by cutting the connector off that pigtail in your pic and soldering the wires directly to the pot - just make sure you know which wire goes to which pot lead.

Honestly, how hard would it be for manufacturers to use a rotary encoder device instead of a pot? This unit is inexpensive, so I can understand using standard parts, but some of the radios we use are rather expensive and you'd think they would use something that would last a bit longer.

Thank You gentlemen, I'll get back into the TX tonight.

My 2wd pede started doing something like you mentioned Bondo. It would not startup, and I would have to give it a push to get it moving. Once rolling it seemed to work as normal, untill it stopped moving and would not startup. Did this in fwd and rev. I will test the radio gear when I get a chance. Hope it is the esc and not the radio, as I have 5 more rx coming...

It's the radio, you described the symptoms exactly befor it got really bad. If you find something LMK plz. I'm gonna muck with mine more Thurdsday afternoon.

Well that sucks... Figured the sidewinder was going out. Have you contacted hobbypartz?

No, I bought it from these Jackholes http://www.r2hobbies.com/eng/index.php
Worst internet shopping experience EVER, slow, very poor comunication, SERIOUS language barrier. They shipped my TX in a styrofoam box with no RX's(ordered 5 extra), no instructions or paper work. Waited another 40 days befor I receiived instructions and missing RX's. Then the Azzholes tried to send me a PP invoice ??
A couple weeks later Hobbypartz had them in their inventory, only if I had waited ?

Needless to say I wouldn't piss on these guys if they were on fire, let alone ask for product help.

Well, If mine is bad it will be going back to hobbypartz. We will have to see what their return policy is like. I personally would like another one that works, as I really like the radio.

Well, I heard back from SkyFail when I sent a email inquireing abot purchasing a potentiometer from them to replace my switch in my TX.

Good news is they said they would give me the part for free but I have to pay for shipping. I thought this was a great deal and decent customer service ?

The last email they sent;


" Hello Jeff,

if you dont have account of EMS, you need to pay for the shipping fee about $35 and bank fee about $20.

Kind regard "


My return email;


" WHAT ?

Listen, I buy parts from HK,China frequently and have small parts shipped for just a couple dollars and you think I'm going to pay $55.00 ?

I'll throw my TX in the trash befor I spend another $55.00 on this piece of shiz.

F**K YOU ! "

So needless to say I'm off to radio shack and if this doesn't fix it I'm gonna smash it w/a hammer. :grrrrrr::grrrrrr:

Bummer mang. 55 bucks is just nutz.

HAHAHAHA, thanks Jeff, I needed the laugh. I would drop hobbypartz a line and see if they can get the part for you, even though you did not get the radio from them...

RadioShack
or just use one out of an old junk Tx
Everyone has old radios sitting arround.

its a simple fix.

Scavaging a part from a old AM/FM radio isn't a bad idea if I strike out a RadioShiz ?

James, May your next Tootsie Roll be a cat turd in a wrapper..

Man, you only want the best for me huh. Glad I got that restraining order.

haha, great email. Wonder why it costs so dang much to send a little potentiometer?

I have the real cheap and nasty 2 chanenel FlySky radio and the same 3 channel as in this thread but from Hobbyking. Seems to work fine but I found a very odd issue with it. It can actually control multiple Rx's at once. Yep, thats right. I had three receiver on the bench, each with a battery and one servo plugged in and they were all moving in unison. Crazy stuff. So if you finish playing with one of your cars and change over to another but forget to switch the first one off they will both move together. Try it and see. It's pretty funny.

Also one thing that is very well documented is the fact that Exponential setting on these radios do nothing. I have tried and it just does nothing.

When I go to the track I have usually 4 RC's all plugged in and ready to go, I'll drive one till it hits LVC then switch models on the TX(Spektrum) to the next and drive it and so on without ever walking downstairs.
It would be funny to see, driving 3 or 4 RC's around the track in unison.

Nothing would surprise me with these cheap damn things. Def one of my not so hot RC decisions was buying mine.

well i noticed with mine that when i steer quickly from full left to right the trottle will spaz a little. i don't even have my finger near the throttle and the motor just chrips every now and then. its not a bother, but its also not good.

Expo is borked, but some guys over at rctech figured out what you need to reprogram it.
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pro...sp?SKU=51R7448

so a fix should be available at some point.

Sounds good. Hopefully it's an easy and cheap fix. I really like the expo setting. When doing high speed runs I really like having the ability to tame down the steering around the center. Really helps with over-correcting.

I do like this radio and for the price it's a winner but I will only use it with my lesser models (slower and cheaper ones). I feel that I am able to control my RCs better with my Spektrum radios mainly due to expo setting but also the DX3S and DX3R just feel better in my hand. Still I think that they did very well for the first effort and when they do the next model I think they will iron out a lot of little bugs that are present now.

The Company I bought mine from, their web page stated this was the 3rd version ?

they're back in stock at hobbyking:yes:

thank God im not haven anay of these problems......
it looks like sofar i have been lucky ive been usen it with 2 trucks about every day now.
Its the only 2.4Ghz tx i have so i hope it stays that way...................