The Ultramaxx gears are for the original Emaxx trans. Top input shaft was metal from Traxxas then UE made steel idlers to fix those. That left the output gears to be destroyed which is where the Ultramaxx gears came in. They would be the only manufactured gears for the original transmission.

Nitrostarter, that's good to know. I may check some local machine shop shops to see what I can come up with. Of course, I will need the existing gears to see if they can duplicate them in metal.

The key to Ultramaxxed gears was the idler gear it was made out off Ampco 18 which is a
blend off Brass and Copper which made it not wear the aluminum gear and the top steel gear! it holds oil really well! that what i have read any way! just my 2cents worth=)
WEB

Honestly though, if you are going with a newer Emaxx transmission, get the one from the current brushless version. I doubt you'll blow it out.

Thanks you WEB and Nitrostarter! The only reason I was considering metal gears for the 3905's was to upgrade. I did research the durability of the brushless tranny and discover they were very durable.

Yep. The new transmission is WAAAAYYYYYY ahead of the old one. I had an Emaxx over ten years ago and destroyed idler gears every run until I found the Unlimited Engineering Idler's.

I've run the new transmission on 6S with a 2100KV Tekin truggy motor and it has not flinched. I bent a stock motor plate, but went with the FLM sideways motor plate.

So far, in my research, that will be the way to go - KMN. Considering the torque of yourt 2100kv Tekin motor, as well as the Castle's motor for the E-MAxx, certainly tells a lot about the brushless tranny.

I still use the old one , have a single speed conversion and steel idler .
have not broke it yet on 5S ...

Thanks again Tinuss! The input from this forum has been helpful.

Well, another question has come up. Those HPI HB D8T Diff Pinion Gears are not working with the Traxxas steel driveshafts. The pinion shafts are too long for the driveshafts, both front and rear. The dog-bone will not fit cause' of the length of the pinion gear. Are there shorter 10T Straight Cut pinions that will work on those HPI HB D8T Diffs?

Could you get a picture of what's going on?

If it's too long, can you grind down the pinion, or get a shorter dogbone?

I ended up with Mike's chassis, and if I remember correctly, 115mm rear dogbone, and 125mm front. I have the 35mm chassis extension on there and a Kyosho MP9 center diff, so those numbers will be different. I probably tried several different length bones before I finally found some that fit.

:whistle:KMN, I am getting ready to shorten the shacks on the pinions - right now as a-matter-of-fact!

Well, I did shorten the shanks on the pinion gears with plenty of room left to utilize the set screws. The center drive shafts are fitting just fine. The dog bones were butting up against the pinion shanks, but not any more. I will post some pics to show the progress of the build. Thanks again for your help everyone. The build is still fun for me despite some of the challenges.

The challenges are what makes building fun for me.... probably why I've built over 40 or 50 RC cars in the last ten years. I keep getting into a cycle of building, then selling for way less than I had in it. So not financially correct.

What have you kept and why?

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...psnarrkpi7.jpg
http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...pshbbvwlpy.jpg
http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...s7i2qqxu1.jpeg
http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...suwlk4cy0.jpeg
http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...psoaxanmtf.jpg
http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...sj6rtauef.jpeg
http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...s6wytaax0.jpeg
http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...swrjfiskb.jpeg
http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...ssub15iv3.jpeg

Here are some recent pictures of the updates to the V-MAXX build and more to come. i will be using another body for the build; however, another 73 Bronco and different color. I just recently ordered a Gen-3 Robinson Racing slipper clutch to replace the stock slipper clutch.

Nice build.

Thanks Arctik! This forum has shown kindness and favor in assisting me in this process of learning how to build my own E-MAXX..

That's coming together quite nicely. I love the Hi-Res pics. I can't wait to see what else you've got planned for it.

Thanks _Paralyzed_! I just installed a Robinson Racing Gen 3 slipper clutch to replace the stock one. I am working on all the mechanical parts for now. Later on in the build the electrical components will come into play cause' I enjoy the research end of the build. Look forward to posting the results of the build.

Here are some pics of the number two truck (roller for now) with FLM chassis. Getting it ready for brushless combo. All that is needed is 1/8 scale diff cases before purchasing brushless combo.

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...stzxunswx.jpeg

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...syfdeeo6k.jpeg

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...sljp3bdoj.jpeg

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...s9v6kexbx.jpeg

Looking good man!!

Thanks Nitrostarter! This truck is a up-grade project.

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...sucffsp5y.jpeg

Recently installed a Robinson Racing GEN 3 68t spur gear. Will install the pinion gear with Castle's 2200 kv motor. Any suggestions for the tooth # for the pinion?

I used 16T pinions with that same spur and 6S. Was pretty healthy.

KMN, is there less issue concerning heat w/batteries, ESC and motor using a higher tooth pinion- since I have 43t/10t diff-gears? Also, how would 16t pinion affect the diffs? Thanks for your assistance again.

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...sdj3ebbu2.jpeg
http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...sddamfeup.jpeg
http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...shl9nw1uz.jpeg

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/...s9xncixtz.jpeg

Pics of recent additions to the V-Maxx build. I have installed a Hot Racing aluminum bearing saver steering kit. I removed the blue anodized part of the kit and polished it. (Blue did not go with the color scheme.) Also installed the receiver case. The extra FLM diff case and gears are for the FLM chassis #2 truck upgrade. Getting the second hybrid diff case soon.

Looks good ..... sooo clean

Thanks Tinuss! Both the V-MAXX chassis build and updates on the other trucks are lots of fun to me.

yeah building is just as fun as driving these things

I am sure you would know considering how many you have built! You have help me a lot - thanks again.

Yes , I love building and are always building hahahahahah

There is a very nice setup coming up .... just wait and see in the next weeks

Tinuss, I look forward to seeing your creative works.:yes: Let me know when your finished and which post or link.

What kind of screws are you using? Are they stainless steel?

Tony's screws for all my builds

Silver5 - they are stainless steel screws from my local hardware store for the V--MAXX build. The # two is using the screws from FLM for that truck's upgrade.

Thanks. I know Tony's Screws are the best but I am thinking of running in wet weather and I hate rusting screws.

So Silver5, can you post which screws you decided to use? No more bent, rusted or stripped head screws is a good thing!

Hi, I haven't decided on what screws to use yet. I believe RCscrews make stainless steel screws but they aren't as strong as Tony's screws.

Silver5, here's another consideration in case you are still researching:http://www.rcscrewz.com