Cheers :) I don't think it will fail, it'll be a pain to adjust the gearing, but as I only have 2 pinions that potentially fit, I don't think that'll cause me too much hassle oddly enough.

http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/al.../240820061.jpg

I have enough space in there to mount the warrior vertically against the other TVP. Means I only need uber short cables for everything if that works :)

Looking great! The TF trays aren't in the store but Mike has them. The TF trays also fit 7 cells flat aswell. Thats the main thing.

Nice to see you are working on it allready! How do you change the gearmesh?

The integy shocks; how long are they? with the the UE shocks are about 113.5mm, and they limit the travel. for a basher, the stock shock are the way.

To change the gear mesh, I can reach in the side of the TVP and adjust the motor screws with a 2.5mm ball drivers like these:

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/b/bonr1205.jpg

Alternatively I can take the motor out with the mount by undoing the two big ass screws holding it in, and adjust it a small bit at a time.

I'll get back to you on the Integy shocks, I don't have my Emaxx to hand. I don't think they are much longer than the UE ones. I'm just a bit concerned I might bend the shafts easily in the stock ones because their length?

yeah that bending is what made them famous..

Don't forget your initial goal; A basher. From that point of view, i still recommend you to use the stock shocks.

would ofna dominator shocks work? they seem pretty long....just the rears?

I agree. Work with the stock shocks or see if any of the long 1/8 scale buggy shocks from Kyosho or Ofna will fit. Put the Integy in the "circular file". That's where they belong in my opinion. I owned a set. What a mistake that was.

I still think you should go the E-maxx route but then I'm partial to the E-maxx. The Savage is a bit tougher out of the box but as soon as you start adding mods the Maxx catches then far surpasses the Savage. As always the real answer is "it depends".

Just my opinion. Good luck to you which ever way you choose to go!

BTW, I have a set of 4 of the XL Ofna shocks. Would you like me to measure them for you? They are in fact longer than UE Supershocks by at least 5mm. I believe the eyelet to eyelet dimension is 118mm. Could be as much as 120 but I'm pretty sure it's 118mm.

The ofna dominator shocks would be okay. The fronts are the same as the rears.

To get an emaxx as strong as a savage, you need to invest 3X the money. A stock revo is tougher than a maxx.

(allmost) All cars need certain hopups to get them tough.

I like my e-maxx over the savage in terms of building, but with the proper diffs the diffs of the savage is as tough as the UE diffs. (both 6 and 8 spider) Ue is topnotch, it's great, but it's not holy. the ringgear and pinion of the savage have got a larger contact area.

Thanks for the info :) I'm not parting out my Emaxx until I've given the Savage a good few runs, but I think it'll be a better basher, and more fun to drive. Still keeping the Emaxx in reserve for a little while though, maybe I'll do something else with it like adapt it for beach use or light rock crawling.

I'll rebuild the stock shocks this evening and re-fit them. They seem undamaged by the previous owner so should be good for a while. Part of the reason I don't think they'll last long is because I bent, buckled and snapped my stock Emaxx shock caps/shafts very quick once I started driving it hard.

Thanks for the details on the Ofna XL's. A precise measurement would be most useful, if they fit the bill for the size, you think it would be a good idea to invest in some, if my stock shocks start to fail me?

Just to be clear, with the exception of the longer FLM chassis and essential drivetrain upgrades, I would like to keep it as stock as possible. For the mean time. But the shocks are my primary concern.

Oh and I ordered a Y harness to get the brakes working with the ESC today. Anyone know how to disable brakes on the 9920?

go to the sticky in the BL forum, it should tell you there. When programming, i think you just pull the throttle back, let it beep, then put it to nuetral, let it beep twice and then you should be set. unplug, then replug.

When you program it. It beeps for the neutrel position. Pull trigger to forward position and hold until you her and single beep and then double beep. Unplug and reinstall red jumper.

Nice and simple, just the way I like it :) Thanks guys. Sorry I missed the warrior programming sticky, I'll give that a good read as well.

Hey, i was close without reading first! LOL

Well, just get a set of the stock shocks on ebay, they cost next to nothing..

I didn't popped a cap off yet, they are pretty tough! their plastic is better than the plastic that's used for the maxx. My maxx shocks kept popping and popping though.

Don't use too thick oil (30-35 wt is good) get a piece of silicone hose inside the shock on the shaft (suspension limit) but it also serves a good purpose in keeping the shafts straight. (because of the piston is further in the shock, it's less 'fragile'

AHHHH! Sacriledge! :mad:1

JK. It's great stuff but thats not to say there can't be other products on the market that could meet or exceed its performance.

Procharged - that was too funny! Serum is right though! I love my UE, but, until you dip it in holy water......

What!?!?!?! You mean you haven't????

JK! :005:

LOL..!

Arh, again, it's great stuff, great engineering as well. Too bad it's not an enthusiastic company for our rc hobby anymore. I am anxiously waiting for the aluminum extension, but i am glad i am not holding my breath on it..

:012: Yeah, no kidding. The availability is limited on many products and very few new products have been released. :012:

Now the Strobe Slipper (I know, not UE, but related) is discontinued

The Lightning chassis is discontinued :012:

And Robin's High-Tech world beater chassis is no where in sight. :032:

I would love it if they "ramped up" production and/or released some new products. I'd still like to have a lightning chassis and might be willing to shell out the $$$ since I've been fighting with getting my ill-fitting FLM Extended E-Maxx chassis to fit correctly. :031:

Has anyone heard anything from the UE camp on new products?

I would PM on his forum and see what he says.....since it has been so long, maybe he is in the works of something?
Have you contacted FLM?

Last thing developped was the setback arms, and the ext piece.. I heard robin is now into making Harley Davidson parts..

Geez...Those are gonna be expensive I bet...Not to mention....well I won't go there...

Big update today. I've got the batteries all mounted up, new spur fitted, mechanical brakes tuned & working fine with the reprogrammed 9920, and modified the motor plate to let the rear dogbone clear without binding. Also disassembled the entire rear end and cleaned it all up. Had to use a blunt knife to get the crap out the wishbones it was that filthy when I first got it.

My battery mount on one side I'm very happy with, but on the other side, I've had to offset it, to clear the brakes. Does everyone else do this, or is there a way to re-run the brakes? At the min that side flexes a bit so I'm not happy with it.

Also needs a new pair of front braces thanks to the last owner, and I noticed the tvp's are also tweaked when I was drilling them for the batts, so I'll be picking the FLM ones up next month. It'll still run though. I've done a full electronics test on the bench and its good to go. Even the two speed is shifting at what I believe is the correct point.

Unfortunately it doesn't look like I can fit the warrior inside the tvp's, as i'll risk having the cables get chewed up on the spur, and I don't have anything kicking about to fabricate a good cover with. For the min I'm gonna mount it roughly where you see it in the pics, unless anyone has a better suggestion :) Should be safe there and have good ventilation.

Looks good, but won't it be kinda nose heavy??

Possibly. I wanted to keep the weight quite far forward, if it upsets the balance or rear traction, i'll move them further back. Easy to do.

rtsbasic, where'd you get that battery holder from?..

I made them out a pair of old TC3 graphite chassis's. Pretty stiff units, should do the job okay.

Gonna try and get a test run done today. Can't wait to see how it drives. Just need to rebuild the shocks and mount the esc up. And put the 7 cell packs together.

Just been out for a test run, with the only illumination coming from my cars lights, and on soaking wet ground. But it works! :) And works well. After a couple of mins of easy driving I started pushing it, and it goes nicely. 2nd gear shift point is a tad late, easy fix (I think?). Suprisingly it felt more stable than my Emaxx, well as stable as a car can get in the soaking wet anyway. Performance on 12 NIMH isn't much different from my Emaxx - backflips on command at low speeds, good low end acceleration without lifting the front too much. Didn't do a top speed pass as its way too dark :010: Its RTR weight with 12 GP3700's is 5.8kg, or 12.8lbs. This is just over 1lb heavier than my Emaxx RTR with the same electronics and wheels, so I don't think thats too bad. I'm going to switch to RPM arms as they're a bit lighter and indestructable, not sure where else I can trim the weight though. Any suggestions?

Suspension impressed me. A 3ft drop and it doesn't bottom out. Still on the soft side though. Love it.

Definately not used to the feel of mechanical brakes. I'm used to the instant response of motor brakes. They do the job though, once they kick in. Is there any way I can ditch the mechanical brakes, while keeping the 2 speed intact? If I have to, I'll just throw a faster servo in there and hope it improves the response time a bit.

Couple more pics for those still following this thread :)

Your truck looks great.

WOW!! Less than 13Lbs... that's awesome

Nope..

No need for RPM arms, the stockers are rather light and strong.

If you want to save weight, look closer to your wheels.

I'm going to purchase some Masher tyres for the RPM rims..wonder if they'll be much heavier than the Savage ones. I'll stick with the stock arms, they look very beefy so i'll probably break other stuff way before them.

Another test run today, with a few jumps. Goes well, no problems at all yet (well, it backflipped and snapped an arial, does that count? :) ). Spur still looks brand new so I'm fairly certain theres no flex going on that can adjust the mesh. Battery mounts are holding up fine so far, and I'm getting used to mechanical brakes. Needs reverse though. Time to bump it up to 14 cells..

good to hear it's going well! Sounds like you have done a great job!

Wow been a while since I last posted in here, time for an update. Just today I rebuilt the car with Twin Force trays I got from Mike (cheers mate!). Changed the wheels/tyres to GS SUT ones, with 17mm hex's. These don't balloon wildly and make the car a bit more fun to drive :) The power it has is impressive, a hex forced its way around half a turn in one of my RPM wheels and left it with two very big cracks. Ouch. Last time I use 14mm..

Car also has new TVP's, alloy braces, and a better steering servo in. Motor mount is unchanged as it does the job perfectly. I moved the batteries about an inch further back as it did end up being too nose heavy, hopefully that should sort it. Looks a lot neater with the TF trays. Plus they sit lower, it was already hard to roll, now I'm hoping it'll be really hard to, what with the motor sitting so low as well.

And..its lost weight. Now weighs 12.47lb RTR with 12 cells, compared to 12.8lb it weighed before with 12 cells. If tomorrows test run goes okay I'll finally get 14 cells in there.

looks good... what kind of battery holders are those?..

Twin Force battery trays. I can see why a few people recommended them to me, do the job very well.

Yes, Mike should have them in stock. They are quite beefy as well. Another option is using associated battery cups. The kyosho's are better IMO

Yup. They're a bit more flexible than what I thought they would be, but do the job very well, much prefer them to the AE cups and TC3 trays I made.

True, the AE au cups have much more flex. I thought of a cool thing as a batterieholder, i will get some proto's done this weekend i hope.