What about making them from plastic (delrin...)
You can set it once and then set gear mesh with swing arm, like with Nitro.

No, I didn't. Do they fail?

Artur

I would not use a delrin as material for a mount. No heat transfer and too flexible IMO, i tried a nylon mount, of 10 mm thick, but it was too flexible. perhaps you can drill holes in it and push a 7075 aluminum tube in it for support.

Plastic should work nicely for the rear support as long as it's ~3mm+ thick. And I don't think it necessarily has to be delrin, but that sure would work.

Actually, I wasn't planning on using the "swing-arm" Nitro mesh adjustment. It is made for a pinion that sits under the spur really. The traditional slotted holes you made would be better IMO since the motor sits more to the side. I guess you could use the swing arm mesh adjustment to tweak the angle of the mount to suit personal preference though.

I've never heard of a broken motor mount, even with using the 3.3, but it seems like it's kinda cheaply made. It does seem to hold though, so maybe I'm being too anal about it.


Oh, and apologies to Shark413 for hijacking his thread... :dft001:

Sorry, i didn't realized it was a rear support, i thought it was meant as an entire mount.

Brian; if it can hold a nitro motor it can hold an electric as well.

Well, I was just thinking about the instantaneous stresses of an electric motor vs a Nitro.

You trying to say it has more power brian?

I hear you Brian, but the nitro head is sticking out about 4 times as much.

Good call!

Artur

@Serum: Yeah, the Nitro head does stick out more. Like I said, I thought I was maybe too anal. :)

@CHC: Yeah, I think it's safe to say that a properly sized BL setup has more "snap". :)

Since this thread has really gone away from the original topic, I was wondering if a mod could create a new thread and move the applicable posts there?

Update
 

I was finally able to get out to the local track (Hot Rod Hobbies in SoCal) today. The EVO's performance was very impressive. It held it's own agaisn't stock REVO's down the short main straight and killed them coming out of the corners because of the low speed torque. I was worried about the CG but she flew straight and level, easily clearing the doubles and triple jumps. The motor mount appeared to hold the motor very well and there were no problems with gear mesh or motor mount flex. I actually only got one tank through my nitro REVO because I spent most of the day running the EVO, it was that much fun. At first most people thought it was a standard nitro REVO but when it took off with no nitro buzz people started to gather to watch. I think Lipo's will be my next addition to lighten the truck and give it even more punch.

Cool!!!!
Poor nitro revo getting neglected. :D

Update
 

I still can't get over how fast and how well my Brushless Revo handles.

And this is with a mild Novak HV 6.5 and regular NiMh batteries. I

changed out the original battery mounts with some aluminum plate, the

new plates allow me more battery mounting options and are much

stronger. Some updated photos.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r.../batttrays.jpg

Modified the battery trays so they would be more modular and stronger.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k413/clean.jpg
Body finished, has not seen the dirt yet.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k413/dirty.jpg
After a day at the local track.

I just got around to cleaning my EVO and I noticed that the left rear shock rod end was broken. This is the same exact part that I broke on my Nitro Revo. At that time I thought it was because of the hot exhaust pipe causing the Rod end to melt. But Since the EVO doesn't have a hot exhaust pipe I guess it may be a design flaw. I changed the rod end out with an alloy part.

Shark, glad you liked the mount.

Sorry I haven't been around much, primary job has been killing me.

I'm not following on the chassis flex issue and I'd like to better understand what flex you are seeing there. It is probably something easy to fix with the right cross bracing.

I have a few updates to the kit I've made including a mount that moves the ESC up over the rear shocks where fans can get some air (close to the cooling holes in the nitro bodies on the Traxxas lids). When I get a few run off you and the others that have bought get free upgrades (just pay for shipping).

Can you shoot pics and maybe point out where the flex it coming into play?

I've had ZERO issues with the setup flexing on mine but I might not be pushing my machine as hard as you guys do, I just beat around the ramps at the skateboard park near my house and in the front yard.

It's been awhile but I seem to remember that your mount bolts directly to the Revo chassis without using the stock Revo nitro mount. In that configuration I was seeing some flex in the chassis. The Motor kinda hangs out there on two thin pieces of aluminum, and without the nitro mount to tie the motor/mount to the main chassis/diff I was seeing some flex in the chassis (between the motor and the main chassis). I modified the nitro mount so I could use it with your mount and no more flex. Your mount is still going strong and I have a more powerful motor on order. Yeah the tray over the shocks would be great, I am currently running my ESC over the front shocks, but I would prefer it in the rear. The only issue is the Novak ESC with its built in fan is kinda tall.

Yeah, I had a little flex with just using the chassis (not using b0gh0s' mount). I got the one in the RCM store (which uses the stock Nitro mount) and the spur is in great shape which tells me that the mesh is solid (no flex). Even though the Nitro mount is nothing special, the way it wraps underneath to the bulks really helps shore up the chassis in that area.

b0gh0s; nothing against your mount at all - I think it's still very nice. I just think some way to strengthen the chassis would help. Don't forget; some of the motors we use are a little heavier and longer than the HV motors, so there is more stress on the mount, which is transferred to the chassis.

Sweet revo shark. Did you get any pictures while you were at the track?

RC, those pictures were taken a while back and no I didn't get any track pictures. But the next time I go I will try to get some pictures and video. I filmed video of my nitro truggy but forgot about the Evo because I was having so much fun with it. Since the pictures above I have gone back to the stock Revo truck body so everyone knows what I am driving. I have also added the following:

Tekno extended wheelbase rear a-arms
Hitech HS-985MG steering servo.
Single steering servo mod
Steering Mod
Alloy parts for all shocks (caps, spring retainer, rod ends)
Alloy tie rods and push rods
Removed one spacer from push rod to lower the chassis
Close ratio gears and FOC
Spektrum receiver and telemetry module
50wt & silver springs front, 60wt & blue springs rear
RPM carriers
Novak HV 4.5 motor
Alloy pivot post
Ti pivot balls
23mm hubs

well u cant brag with out pics ;)
LOL

sounds sweet! looks awsome!

Ok Ok, here are some pictures I dug up.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...413/evotop.jpg
Evo sitting on my tool box.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...13/buggy-1.jpg
No that's my 1/8 buggy, but the Evo was in the pit area

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r.../intheback.jpg
See the Evo in the back behind my truggy?

SWEET!

i like that paint job! and looks like a buggy that aint bl.......lol

Updates
 

Since I originally put this Brushless Revo together I have made some significant updates. I have added Tekno extended a-arms to strech out the wheelbase, added RPM carriers, Center diff, rear brake, brake linkage, updated the engine from a Novak 6.5 to a 4.5 and I moved the ESC to the rear. I have the 1/8 diffs and Will add them as soon as I have time.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...13/updated.jpg


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k413/top-1.jpg
Top view, showing rear brake linkage.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/bottom-1.jpg
Bottom view, motor mount utilizes the stock nitro engine mount.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k413/diffs.jpg
1/8 diffs

Looks good man. .. Is that the traxxas 2055 servo for the break? What else is hooked to it .. the red servo arm linkage.. whats that doing?

rear brake link

Trick440, good eye. Yeah that is a stock Traxxas 2055, borderline I know. But for braking duties it is ok. I have $600+ dollars worth of servos in my road cars, nitro Revo, truggy and buggy, plus a few spares so this is all I could afford right now. At least I have a Hitech HS-965MG on the steering, which is again borderline but adequate for now. And as GriffinRU pointed out the red servo arm works the rear brake. Since I am running a center diff you need a front and rear brake.

i've been wondering how brakes work with center diff, when you brake on your motor?

Brakes on the CD work just like they do when using the motor to run the CD. Since you are braking on the CD, the end with the least amount of traction will have more of the braking force - which is usually the rear end because of brake dive. This tends to make steering quite sharp.

Very nice work!!

jollyjumper, since I am using the Revo Nitro tranny, reversing the motor won't brake the car, it will just freewheel. So the disc brakes are necessary to stop the car. You need front and rear brakes because the center diff basically splits the drive train in two (front and back). I have the ESC set to only have forward speed and brake, no reverse. But the ESC brake action works the brake servo via a splitter (when the ESC sends a brake command the motor stops, but the tranny free wheels, but the signal is also sent to the brake servo, via the splitter, which works the likage connected to the front/rear disc brakes. It has very strong, consistant braking action that can easily be finetuned. I much prefer this setup (disc brakes) to the ESC/motor braking action in a normal electric car.

Using mechanical brakes is better for the ESC too. However, I'm lazy and don't want to find extra room for the servo. :)

Man, all of these revo threads are really making me want to do one myself.

What's that? I think I hear a Revo faintly saying "AAngel, convert meeeee". :)

Man, I think I hear something buzzing in my ear.

Thought my mind that was playing tricks on me..

convert me.. convert me.. listen to that poor thing!.. It's allmost begging!

I am going to work on mine today.. Thinking about getting those GRP wheels for her.

I've been checking out that guy on ebay selling brand new rolling chassises for less than $300. On the other hand, I have a friend that got out of RC and he has a practically new Revo 3.3 with the center diff and I could get that for under $200.

Ohh, you guys are killing me. Actually, it'll be my wife that's killing me if she walks into my shop and sees another RC vehicle.

Remember; in these circumstances it's the truck of your best friend. If you don't have friends you can make one up, and call it Steve.. You met Steve at the hobby shop you visited because you wanted to sell some of your trucks (because you have got your hands full on 1 truck) and he wanted to have his revo converted.. (Mind you; Don't try this if your name is Pinocchio, because your nose would be most likely poking her eyes out)

It's not that hard to avoid the killing, you see?

Rene. that is the best excuse!!!

You simply hide your least favorite one so the vehicle count will be the same. Or, don't let her in the basement. Or, make your work area such a mess that she doesn't see it sitting there among everything else. See? There are ways, you're just not trying hard enough! Where are your priorities? ;)

Sounds like someones has done this before :005:


You can also have it shipped to a friends address and say it's his and your working on it ;) Just make sure you pay him cash so there is no paper trail.

Actually, no. lol. It was just a few ideas off the top of my head. :)