I read that and will be replacing it. The metal gear was when I was running nitro.

I just have to figure out what gear combo I will need.

Thanks for the compliments.

Hi rckcrwlr,

I was running a 7XL with BK warrior 9920 & 5 or 6S lipo with 2 speed / mechanical brake & 15/49 gearing in stable condition before I got distracted. This is for bashing condition only though. Theoretical speed with this setup using 5S is around low 40's mph. She'll get there faster than the nitros though.

If I have enough money, I will go for 8XL with 6S using the same controller for a cooler running esc.

I also ran the same truck using 16/49 gearing with a Quark 125 & everything else the same on a track but ran into thermal ussues after a couple of laps.

Now I'm back to 5S, warrior 9920, 15/49 gearing & mech. brake. Will try this out soon on the track where the stress on the truck is much higher compared to bashing conditions. Hopefully, it will be ok.

Oh, by the way I live in the tropics where thermal issues are much more pronounced.

Regads,
Joe Ling

PS : are u the same person from clodtalk ?

Joe,
Thanks for the info. I am new to this as you read in the thread. This will mainly be for bashing and maybe some friendly dragracing. I want to run NiMh in the beginning and then go to LiPo. I think 40 mph is pretty fast for a MT. Especially that it will get to that speed a lot faster than nitro. I am hoping to that with the 3 speed it will keep temps down.

Not that is not me on Clodtalk...that is probably the only forum I am not on.

John

That looks nice. I like the savage x slipper more than the reg one. I has two pads instead of one.

This is a slipper of the savage X leroy. this one comes with the X-SS kit.. it's a steel spur. i too fancy the plastic spurs and the 'real' savage-X spur.

It don't look like the one I had for mine. I had the plastic with the twin slipper
pad setup. It was alot more capible of holding power.

Yep.. You didn't had one from the X-SS i think? (that's the kit version)

Nope I bought it seperate. But you know how that goes. :D

Does the X fit an SS tranny? I would think so...

I had to buy the plates and stuff to fit it. That was all I needed.

I have been in a holding pattern. Waiting for some parts. I should have them by next week. I will send pics and updates at that time.

John

Yeah, please share pics!

Well guys it has been a while...RC Rockcrawling comps (1st place in 2.2 class and 2nd in Supers) took most of my focus over the summer...well that and camping.

To get everyone up-to-date:

Currently running:
9L Feigao
Mamba Max
14 cells
14T Pinion
46T Spur
2 sp HD Tranny w/o reverse
Weighing in at 10 lbs w/o cells

Here was my first and only run...tranny blew up

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...h_1b5ce85c.jpg

Then the tranny blew...dropped in a 2sp HD.

Now with my question...

I am now jumping into LiPo...

What would be the best to go with...I am just getting into it.

Is the MM the right ESC and I know the 9L should be different...

I sold one of my crawlers so I want to buy the right stuff for this rig.

Give me your suggestions in this format:


ESC:
BL Motor:
LiPo Cells:

Comments:

Thanks for your patience and help on this..

John

I ordered a 5s LiPo for my savage...then realized that the MM will only handle 3s.

I see that Mike is changing vendors on escs. Would the Quark Monster Pro or the Barracuda be the best for my setup?

Please someone respond.

Thanks,
John

ESC:Quark 125b (will need the heat modification sooner or later after you start running it), or MGM 160/18.
Motor: 10lb truck, hmm,.... 9XL.
Lipo: Anything 5s? I would say maxamps, trakpower, trueRC- all the well known brands basically. Look for the voltage you want to run, a minimum of 4000mah, and 20-25c ideally. Obviously, the better the specs, the higher the price (true rc does 8000mah 10c packs that would be good; so long as the batteries can cope with the amp draw of the motor, you will be fine).

Whats your budget for motor and esc? there are much more efficient motors available than the feigaos, but with a lower kv rating like the 9xl it shouldnt be in danger of running too hot, especially with a fairly average weight truck- not a 13lb lump thankfully.

I can't spend a ton of money...this is going to be a backyard basher...would it make more sense to go with a 10xl with 5s to keep things cool?

Here is my problem...I have gone the wrong direction too much with this truck by purchasing the wrong esc and a 9L before I really got on this site. I now have a new 9L sitting...I want to do the right thing, only once.

I was looking at the quark monster pro esc in the store, is that what you are referring to or is there another Quark 125?

Soooooo Confused.

Thanks for helping.
John

With these numbers, do you think the 10xl would be the way to go???




Vehicle Weight (approx): 10
Desired top speed in MPH: 40
Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 1.6956521739130434
Additional Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 46
Pinion Tooth Count: 14
Battery Voltage: 21
Tire Diameter (inches): 7
Total Ratio: 18.42857 : 1
Tire Circumference: 21.991 inches (558.575 mm)
Required Motor RPM: 35397.099 RPM
Required Motor KV: 1685.576 RPM/V
Good Motor Choices:
BK Wanderer 11 XL (kv=1516)
BK Wanderer 10 XL (kv=1668)
BK Wanderer 9 XL (kv=1853)

Better Motor Choices: No motors of this class fit the parameters you entered.
Best Motor Choices:
Neu 1515 2.5d (kv=1700)
Neu 1515 1.5y (kv=1500)
Neu 1512 1.5y (kv=1900)
Neu 1512 3d (kv=1700)
LMT 1940/10 (kv=1588)
LMT 1940/9 (kv=1742)
Neu 1521 1.5d (kv=1860)
Neu 1521 1y (kv=1577)
LMT 1950/9 (kv=1452)
LMT 1950/8 (kv=1634)
LMT 1950/7 (kv=1867)

I think the 10XL should be ok on 5s. Your going to use 5s aren't you? Because 21V is what you'd put in the calculator if you were using 6s. 5s comes off the charger at 21v, but when you put load on them the voltage will come down. 5s is 18.5v nominal, and for the calculator, use maybe 17-18v. Good batteries will hold their voltage better than lower quality batteries under load.

I don't know why it kept defaulting to 21V. I put in 5 cells at 3.7V each...It came up 18.5...I will try again to see...

Here it goes...


Vehicle Weight (approx): 10
Desired top speed in MPH: 40
Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 1.6956521739130434
Additional Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 46
Pinion Tooth Count: 14
Battery Voltage: 18.5
Tire Diameter (inches): 7
Total Ratio: 18.42857 : 1
Tire Circumference: 21.991 inches (558.575 mm)
Required Motor RPM: 35397.099 RPM
Required Motor KV: 1913.357 RPM/V
Good Motor Choices:
BK Wanderer 10 XL (kv=1668)
BK Wanderer 9 XL (kv=1853)
BK Wanderer 8 XL (kv=2084)

Better Motor Choices: No motors of this class fit the parameters you entered.

Best Motor Choices:
Neu 1515 1y (kv=2200)
Neu 1515 2.5d (kv=1700)
Neu 1512 2.5d (kv=2000)
Neu 1512 1.5y (kv=1900)
Neu 1512 3d (kv=1700)
LMT 1940/9 (kv=1742)
LMT 1940/8 (kv=1959)
Neu 1521 1.5d (kv=1860)
LMT 1950/8 (kv=1634)
LMT 1950/7 (kv=1867)
LMT 1950/6 (kv=2178)

This is my recommendation to you:
ESC: MGM 16018 (I say this ESC over the 125b just because of the heat problem that it tends to have)
BL Motor: Feigao 9XL or 10XL; would you prefer more speed, heat, and less run time or less speed, less heat, and longer run time? (If you can swing it, go for a Neu 1515/2.5d; 1700KV)
LiPo Cells: TrueRC 5s2p 8000mAH pack will work great (There are better out there, but they also come at a price. Many people have had great luck with these TrueRC packs, including me :smile:)

Will I have heat problems with the Quark???? I was going to buy the heat sink too. Would it be better to just get the 16018????

Is it easy to program? The other ESC I had was a pain.

When you give me the options for the motor...what are the differences in speed, heat and run time? I can't swing the Neu...

Thanks for the input...

It looks like with everything else the same that here is what I will get:

11xl = 40 mph
10xl = 45 mph
9xl = 50 mph

Which is going to run the coolest???? the difference of 5 mph is not going to matter to me. And that is with my current 14/46 gearing. I could change that to get more speed. Knowing that which would be better for me to bash around with...

I can't really comment on the programming of the 16018, but I heard that it was pretty easy if you have the programming cable/card sold in the RCM store. As for the Quark, even with the heatsink it will run hot for most people. Others can comment on how simple/hard the mod is to do.

The 11XL will run the coolest and for the longest. :smile:

Yep, the more turns a BL motor has, the cooler (but slower) it will run on the same given voltage. 10XL will run slightly cooler, and you can gear up more as a result (within reason though), so perhaps that would be a better setup than the 9XL. The Quark monster pro is also called the 125b since that is how many amps it can handle (burst rating is about 200 ish); it is the smoothest esc going at the moment, but it just has one annoying problem. Inside the esc case the FETs are connected to a heatspreader (slab of aluminum) via some thermal transfer tape, and then connected to the inside out the case using some more tape. Since the esc isnt sealed, dust & dirt find their way inside the case and cause the tape to fail. When this happens the FETs are nolonger connected to the inside of the case, and heat cant escape. As a result the esc starts to thermal after just a few minutes, but the outside of the case still feels cool. GriffinRu has some nice photos linked to in his sig which show one method of performing the thermal mod. BrianG shold be able to provide some diagrams too (they are floating around somewhere on this site).

EDIT: If you can wait until Feb, the MMM system will be released (hopefully), and that would be even better, especially at less than $300.

Forgive the aside - Neil, maybe this is too obvious, but has anyone tried sealing one and see if that works to prolong correct operation? Just curious, I'm getting close to putting a new one in service and that would be the time to try.

I ordered the MGM 16018 and a 10xl due to not having the 11xl listed. I emailed Mike to make the decision if there is an 11xl would that be better for bashing.

I will keep you updated on the status.

And of course pics and vids...

Did you order pinions too- remember the XL motors have a 5mm shaft, so you will need either MOD1 pinions with a 5mm bore & MOD1 spurs, or you could use 32pitch spurs and 32pitch pinions with a 5mm bore; mike has everything.

You are forgiven Duster- Im sure I read somewhere a while back someone did exactly as you said, but Im damned if I can find the thread. It would be a good idea really to use something like a fine foam mesh, rather than something like hotmelt glue etc. That way you still get airflow through the esc, which aids cooling. I would also highly recommend taking a look at GriffinRU's mod, it is rather brilliant in my opinion.

I have two that will work. Thanks for the reminder.

Wow...is Mike fast on shipping...I had a notice at my door that they tryied to deliver my package...Went to the PO and got it this morning.

I cannot wait to run this thing...I am thinking of installing tonight and then doing a test run with the 14 Cells until my 5S Lipo comes in...

Nice stuff...

Well here it is:

I bought off of Mike:

9XL Feigao
MGM 16018

And running on a 5cell LiPo 4000Mah

I wired it up and went through the set up of the ESC.

Shut it down and then started it back up.

Did a bench run of slow throttle to make sure it worked. It was running smooth.

All of a sudden white smoke started coming out of where the wires go in.

HELP!!! :surprised:

Where the wires come out of where?

I'm sorry it is a 10XL..

Where the wires come out of the back of the motor...

Well, it sounds like I may have had too long of screws to hold the motor. Mike seems to think that is the problem. Only 4mm was screwed in, but maybe that was too much.

Anyone interested in a "smokin" 10xl? Or a NIB 9l? :gasp:

Oops. I think on my hvmaxx the motor mounting screws only go in about 2-3mm. Easy way to tell is to screw them in until you feel the screw touching the windings, then back it off a little. Keep the motor though- spare rotors come in handy around this place....

Mike has been great with answering my questions...even though I don't like some of the answers...:surprised:

How to I disassemble the 10XL. I cannot see any set screws or tabs. I want to make sure what the issue really is.

John

The end plates are pressed in. If you place the motor vertically on a hard surface (shaft down) and tap on the end (where the wires are), the cap on the wires-end should pop off. Just be aware when you put it back together that the end cap won't ever sit as snug as it did when new, so the RCM heatsink/clamp will almost be required.

Well at this point my option is buying another motor unless I can see if it was defective.

OK...I took the back out and looked at the rotor. It has a black "marker" type Stripe on it. Real strong magnet...:gasp:

The winds, I cannot see any marks on it. Is there a way to get the winds out or are they part of the case?

Thanks for the help.

John

Yeah, the magnet is pretty strong. I guess I should have warned you about that. Oops.

The winds should all be the same coppery color with no darker areas (where it might have gotten really hot).

The winds are bonded to the case so no taking them out.

Cannot get the front plate off...but the inside smells like burning electrical.

Time to order a new one...

:cry:

With the back plate off, you can slide the rotor out - just be careful not to scrape the windings on the way out. Then you should be able to get a good look at the windings.