Most unlikely, since you are a vegetarian :p

but i get your drift Mate!

True, for the price Maxamps are quite cool! and i will buy more of them as well. but the trackpower packs (4900 mAh) are available in the US for 119 bucks, which is cheaper than the orions.
It is a fair price IMO.

Thanks for posting the data Serum. My 12000maxamps have #'s like that too. ;)

Thanks Serum. I wasn't trying to say that there wasn't quantifiable data on the batteries to determine which one is more superior - just that I didn't have it. In other words, the only info I had was heresay or opinionative. Hence the Ford vs Chevy reference.

Great info on the batteries though - thanks!

they better glass! they are rated at 600A peak.. but the trakpower packs only weight 268 gram, and do as advertised.

This REALLY makes me wanna get those packs..

I only have #'s for a TP pack...and the results were so bad I question the data all together. Couldn't even hold 12C bursts. But a cross check with a GP3300 pack held strong and suggests the eagletree was valid. Seems a thread on eagletree data would be of use to us all, since the batt companies won't play by a standard set of rules, and unlike others here I don't have the funds to buy so many Lipo packs at the 5S level. Think there's enough #'s amongst us to make it worth while?

It might also be a good idea to list which companies are using the same cells. How many producers are there of lipo cells? Not the actual battery, but the cell that the battery company buys and puts together. Did that make any sense?

It would be nice. Saw once on the net somewhere. But I think by now it'd be outdated since some companies are swapping sources regularly it seems. I'll see what I can dig up.

Here we go!
 

Ok guys, I just got my CRT rolling chassis in the mail yesterday so it's go time. But before I start ordering some things I have a couple other questions that I need your help with.

Here's an update . . . I've decided that I'll go with the Neu 1515 instead of the Lehner now - given the latest info on the MM software updates due out very soon to handle the cogging. I will be running two 2s 4900 Trakpowers together for a 4s 4900. Here's my question: which KV Neu 1515 should I get, and what pinion should I put on it with the CRT stock gearing?

As you might remember from the begining, I would like to hit a top speed of 45 mph and run very cool. It gets in the high 90's and low 100's in the summer here.

Thanks guys!!!

Brushless CRT
 

Well I have finally got my CRT going and may have some advice for you.:032:

I went with the Neu 1515 2200kv motor and it is awsome the Mamba Max esc works great but has a cogging problem with the Neu motor there is an update coming out soon I hope? I'm debating on spending the money on a Quark 125B or just wait for the Mamba Monster Max ESC?

Spurs? The stock steel spur will eat your pinions up in no time change your spur out to the Kyosho 46T nylon spur and the pinions will last alot longer.

Pinions? I found the best deal on 5mm pinions at tower hobbies in the Heli parts section used on large scale electric choppers.

Mounting the motor is easy in the CRT I found a peice of 1/4" aluminum in the garage that worked great I drilled and sloted it for the motor and bolted it to the diff mounts in the brake pad holes and 4 bolts up from the bottom of the chassis. :027:

Nice work IBJAMMIN!

How are your batteries mounted to the chassis? Double sided stick tape or what?

Very nice CRT IBJAMMIN. What battery are you running in that rc18 if I may ask?

Jammin, can you provide a link to these pinions? I can't ever find em in my searches.....thx

sweet. a little heat and quenching and these should be goog to go! Can't beat that price! thx

I'm still working on the battery mounts in the CRT I'm running 2 2s3p Maxamps 9000mah packs there just dbl face taped in right now. The RC18 has a Maxamps 4s 2100HV pack. :)

Excuse my ignorance, what pitch are those Century Motor Gear 5mm 1.0 Module pinions...can't find any detail on Tower's site. Are they the same as is used in typical monster trucks...like the Emaxx?

25.4 pitch.

Ahhh...so 1/8th buggy stuff is quite different from truck...which I think is standard 44. Thanks.

no, most of the buggies truggies and trucks use a MOD1 as spur.

Ok, back on topic here guys - I have another question about the CRT conversion. Is there any real reason to go with the Lehner 1950, or is a 1940 going to work fine? And would it help to go with the 1940 hi-amp?

Woops...Emaxx is 32 pitch. Not sure which other Monsters are the same.

all the real e-maxxes are using a strobe mod1.

most of the nitro truck/buggies and truggies use mod1 as well.

A 1950 will have got more torque.

the 1940 is capable of running the crt around with impressive torque already.

The high-amp differs a little from the non high-amp; the wires are a direct solder instead of plugs, which theoretical makes it more efficient. I doubt if you notice any difference though.

Mine is just a "make believe" E-Maxx. :-) Where do you pick up a Strobe Mod1 spur for the EMaxx? Is it expensive? I'm not building a super high torque machine but if it is more durable or reliable it might be worth the upgrade.

Look in the RCM store under "gears/tranny"...

Thanks.

Looks like the best ratio you can do, with that 51 tooth spur, is a 4.64 (11/51) with that spur....unless the smaller pinion (from TH) would work without pinching the motor to the tranny. The 10T at TH would yield a 5.1. I was thinking of going to a minimum 5.0 (14/70) with the 32 tooth Traxxas spur....or maybe even a 6.0 (12/72) if I needed more torque.

Goal is to dupe the stock Titan power, but with more run time. Looking at a 3S Lipo and a Feigao 7XL.

It sounds like you want a really low geared maxx. You could keep the two speed tranny and run something more like 51T/14T or 15T. That would give you low end torque in first gear and high speed in second. If you have the tranny locked into second, then you don't have as many options. Although, honestly, first gear is useless with BL power.

Also, I'd personally go with a little higher voltage, like 4s, and the 9 or 10XL. That way the batts are balanced 2s on each side. The 9XL will still have more power than the titans and runtime will be better. The 10XL will have even better runtime, but be slower.

Thanks Serum, that's great info. I wish I could see the difference somehow to know if I want to run the 1940 or the 1950. Does anyone have video of a truggy with the 1940 and one with the 1950?

The main purpose for the brushless is to get a maintenance free truck that will have long run times. Don't want to mess with locked tranny, UBEC...etc.

If I run two batteries I will keep 'em in parallel to get even longer run times.

I'm running with an inexpensive MambaMax so I didn't want to push it by going too high a gearing for fear I'd overheat it.

Thanks for all the advice, BrianG.

No problem.

Still, I think the 10XL on 4s (or 12 cells) would be the thing you are looking for. It's more efficient to run higher voltage on a higher turn motor since there is less current draw - and the MM will stay cooler too because of that. Gear it conservative and it should be a very stable (temp-wise) truck with more speed and power than the Titans with the hassle-free maintenance you want.

And even though you don't want to deal with locking the tranny, I think you'll find yourself leaving it in 2nd gear because 1st is honestly just useless. And removing those extra parts (shift servo, linkage, shift fork, extra gears) makes the tranny simpler, lighter, and increases reliability.

And as far as the BEC goes; even at 3s, the MM will generate heat because of the BEC. I always recommend a switching BEC at anything over 6 cells/2s. Say you're running 3s and servo(s) drawing 2A, the MM BEC will be forced to dissipate over 10 watts of power as heat. That's really a lot even though it doesn't sound like it. The switching BEC takes all that load off the MM and does it more efficiently too (and gets more efficient with higher voltage).

Just my $0.02. Good luck and let us know how your truck runs when you get it done.

A 10XL on 12 cells would be somewhat slow no? I'd run at least a 9XL, if not an 8XL.

I thought about the same thing.

Perhaps I wouldn't have to gear it so low with a 10XL...or a 9XL....which would make up for the lack of kV. The extra efficiency...about 10%, should yield higher run times...which is what I was going for in the first place. Hmmmm...except, running at a lower voltage knocks down the efficiency...so maybe the difference is only 5%.

I placed my order for the gears and motor last night. If I make a change it better be early this morning.

Yes, it would be a bit slow on 12 cells, but I was trying to come up with a reliable system that roughly equals stock performance and speed. I run 14 cells on a 10XL on a Revo and it's about 30-35mph. I run several battery packs through it and temps are usually below 135*F on all but the hottest days. But then again, I am geared kinda high.

Ok, here we go. I have another question. I just went through the motor selection on Brian G's site. Awesome I might add.:027:

Anyway, every time I plugged in my info it said to run the Lehner 1940 - not the 1950. The only time it told me to go 1950 is when I bumped the weight up to 12 pounds or more. I plan on running about 11 pounds based on GD's truggy. His was the RTR with the 12000 MaxAmps, and mine is the CRT Pro and I plan on running either two 4350 Enerlands or two 5000HV MaxAmps. So, am I pushing the 1940, or is that really what I should go with? The 1940 is in stock right now too, while the 1950 seems to be taking forever.

Oh, by the way, I was plugging in a desired top speed of 45 mph with the Kyosho 46t spur and a 14t pinion. What do you guys think?

The motor selector does base the motor size (1940 vs 1950, S vs L vs XL, etc) by weight. There is some overlap in weight "classes" so even though you think you are in the upper limit of one motor class, you should be fine.

And I might add that the selector might not be 100% "perfect". I have been open to suggestions on the weight range for each motor type, but so far no one has offered any input if it's not quite right.

And thanks! That whole site started with just a very simple version of the top speed estimator. Amazing how things grow. :)

Right on, I think the site is very impressive. As you might have seen, earlier I asked if the 1940 was ok, and Serum said it would do fine with the CRT too. I'm starting to think I don't need to wait or dish out the extra $$$ for the 1950. Plus it's really hard to wait, and wait, and wait - when I have the rolling chassis staring at me every night. I just painted a new body for it too.

Hmmm . . . I just might order that 1940 tonight. :005:

FWIW, I was planning to get the 1940 when I was doing by Hyper 8 buggy, but they were out of stock at the time. If they are available in the store, get it now before they sell out again!

My wife would call you satan. :005: JK - not a bad idea. I know what happens to those Lehner motors when they go out of stock. Nothing.

Well, I guess no time like the present.:dft009:

Any reason to go Hi-Amp? I've asked that a few times and gotten mixed answers.