I dont think any amount of anti-shake/steady shot would help stabalize the video driving over ground that rough! Its good for helping take a photo if you have slightly shakey hands, but driving over gravel/bumps/ditches/ ridges in the road.... you'd need a miniature steadycam mount. *hmmm...*

That is some rather nifty & slick driving in the 1st vid, even if the tyres dont grip all that well. And its a great location too, I only wish I had somewhere that nice to drive- best I got is a giant carpark or giant flat field.... meh.

which vid u call 1st? starting to have so many of them.

once our new track is complete more will come.

I ment the vid of the maxx just running up and down around the start area of the BMX track- good music too.

that was before i went from 14 sanyo to 16 IB team cells -huge difference in torque (even 16 sanyo vs 16IB)

the BMX track was fun but when weather is nice too many bikers are there and we got bored doing insane jumps so changed our setup for track for this summer

i am so glad that warrior + 8XL were not in stock when i wanted my BL stuff and went for Mike's recommendation of Neu + Quark (though one died and i had to modify replacement to prevent overheating)

New shoes and wing

http://www.radeks.net/?p=61

will see how it handles tomorrow (actually today :) ) on track

everything worked without any issues.

removed the fan and was running whole day without it (about 2 hours on track)
it was over 30C and not a single thermal shutdown
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Thats great that you didn't get a thermal all day. Were you able to take some video there?

video from normal camcorder is on its way. hopefully in few days

will get the video on DVD coming saturday so expect it on sunday - right now it has 3GB

i have a couple of questions for you

1.) are you using 1/8 diffs and if so what size dogbones are you using for the front and rear that conect the diff cups to the transmission.
2.) what neu are you using
3.) what did you do to you quark to keep it from thermaling.
4.) how is the cg with that chassis
5.) do those shocks have nuts on the piston shaft to keep the shock rings from comming off or is there just e-clips
6.) how many cells are you running nimah or lipo
7.) what weight shock oil are you running
thanks nice ride BTW

1 - yes 1/8 diffs with custom size dogbones from Mike - 65mm front and 101mm for rear (105 would fit well the 101 has more play but works without issues just my lousy measurement)
2-1512/2.5d 2000kv
3- BrianG epoxy mod - seems to work great
4- same as with the original one but I use fullforce RC sway bars and it handles great on the track
5 - nuts
6 - 16 nimh IB4200 team corally
7 - 60WT red UE springs in front and blue in the rear still need some testing but I am quite happy with it.

4 extra caps now and 3.3 specs

still can decide which alu knuckles to get. deciding between Integy EVO3 and rd racing. EVO3 are supposed to be machines so should be ok.

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Looks familiar! all you need is a set of aluminum knuckles (or RPM) to prevent the pillow balls from popping out.

I'd go with either the Rdlogics or RPM knuckles, depending on your preference to metal or plastic. It is looking rather nice I must agree.

I want knuckles for larger outer bearings so Integy EVO3 or RD racing are an option.
I dont know if I want RPM knuckles again as they look really beaten up after half a year in maxx

Looks really good. I prefer RPM just because their plastic flex's more so the pillow ball is less likely to pop off.

please help me out. If those are hybrids with buggy/truggy diffs, what size cvds are you running (i am aware that the trans is backwards).

it does not matter the tranny is backwards :)

I have CUSTOM lenght CVDs made by Mike

Rear FLM can fit after some dremmel care but no chance for fronT MIP that I used to use. I had a temporraty solution while waiting for Mikes CVDs - I rased the tranny by 8mm therefore increasing the angle for CVDs and therefore lenght needed

sorry man i realized i already asked you that question. how much play is there in the front also do you think a 100.5mmdogbone would fit or would it be to small. could i get a pic of how tight/lose the dogbones are for the front and rear. thanks.

ok I have 65 mm front and 100.5 rear

the rear if pushed to one cup has pin in the middle of the other cup

the front if pushed is 3/4 in the other cup

so the rear has bit more play but works without any problems



- did have some fun at work in underground parking. (video http://www.radeks.net/?p=66)

was running quite hard and even chassis around quark heatsink was warm :) so cooling works even without fan

got 15 minutes of runtime from IB4200 charged in the morning

We had some fun today tho it was raining like crazy

Video where my maxx is will be bit later

but second part of this video is hilarious (revo and mta4 washing :) )

http://www.radeks.net/?p=67

time to continue :)

finally landed a nice backflip. just 2 are on this video as we had just phone to shoot it

http://www.radeks.net/?p=74

did few more jumps and was landing them like a foot behind the track next to our chairs :)

maxx with novak 4.5 was like 5 feet shorter

Nice job! Now with a bigger jump, you'll be able to do those all day long.

it stresses the truck too much. had one bad landing on one wheel and snapped New Era aluminum turnbuckle end. but its fun once in a while. my truck is still too heavy for these stunts - with 5S lipos it weights 5.7kg (12.5lbs)