I had the HV110.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but there is no "nuetral" position on an airplane controller. Just so we're on the same page, If you don't "trick" the esc into setting full brake to nuetral, your throttle will act just like an airplane stick meaning nuetral is half throttle. If you plan to use it the way you described, then as soon as you begin to let off the brake you will be engaging forward throttle ( (50% reverse trigger = 25% throttle, Nuetral = 50% throttle, 50% forward trigger = 75% throttle etc) and if you can handle that, then you are expotentially more coordinated than I. I have a hard enough time driving my truck as it is :005:
I hope this makes sense.
My experience has been that half throttle may as well be WOT.
Trust me, I fought with this for a week or two and never experienced a consistant setup because of that damn'd "reset" glitch.
I would have escalated this issue to Castle but I'm sure they would have told me that they don't support these esc's for cars so I gave up. Maybe you can sweet talk them into some support :dft012:

BTW
I have to do this same "trick" with my MGM 12032 "hydro" version. The MGM must also be armed and this arming functionality works very much like the CC HV's but does NOT have this "reset" glitch when I apply brakes so its a trust worthy setup. I'm just waiting for my 1515 2Y to show up so I can run 8S on my G2R :017:

Hey, Aragon, which Jazz are you gonna use? the 10-32-55( I doublt that) or the PowerJazz( it has no car programs)?

StarScream, how did you find your 12032?
How much do you like it?

Thats ok then. If I set "full brake" as neutral, but my EPA is set to 0, then the controller will still not receive anything further than its percieved maximum full brake, and all should be ok.

Captain, yes, the 55-10-32. Why the doubt?

I have it. It's good, but it thermals alot, although I used it in a 2wd 10th scale buggy( very light) with a 1920/8 and 10 GP3300mah. I even used a 12v fan and even that did not help alot.
IF, you are gonna use it with a 540 sized motor, then you probably need to feed the motor with lots of volts to cut down the amp draw. Even Mike Franz, an official of Kontronik's technical department, said that it isn't really made for use in cars, despite the fact that it has two types of car programs.
I found that it thermals alot when you apply brake more often. Probably if you use mechanical brakes, that'll keep the controller much cooler. Either than that, this thing is smoooooooooooooth.

Yep, thats exactly how I had it configured and "Beep" the esc would randomly "reset" and off it went to the races and all the while I was doing the WOT dance and trying to get control of my truck back. It was startling to randomly see the wheels turn to pancakes or just flip on its lid as I gave it brakes. The only fix for this was to cycle the power on the esc and let it re-arm itself.

This was quite frustrating as the EPA should have prevented the esc from detecting the brake but unfortunately it did not.
I hope you have better luck than I did.

I'm eager to hear how it goes for you.

captain harlock ygpm

Shucks. I hope it doesn't thermal. You're not the first person to tell me this though. I will be running 10S to minimise amp draw and hope that will be sufficient. At 30V (3.0v/cell) and 65A, that's 2000W - well within its ratings. I thought about getting an MGM controller, but the Kontronik is cheap enough to risk it. I'm into RC helis too and I know the Jazz will be useful for a future heli if it ends up on the shelf with this experiment.

Glad to know it runs smoothly. I've read old posts about it cogging. I guess that was with old firmware. Cool!

It coggs because its not strong enough to handle a motor in a rc car.

Make note that this thing only gives a 55amps continuous and 65-70amps surge. It isn't really a good choice for MTs.

In my experience, my lower amp esc work's most efficient with an appropriately geared automatic 2 speed transmission. For example, I have an esc that runs most efficent at ~35amps. The pwm kicks in after ~50amps or so but I don't notice the pwm kicking in when I use an automatic 2 speed tranny like the tmaxx or Revo trannies. Now, if I put this same esc/motor in my single speed losi 8ight the pwm kicks in very quickly as the amps spikes are much higher with the single speed so I am no longer considering using this esc for the 8ight. I plan to get some eagletree comps once I get my G2R back together. The auto two speed tranny is a great load buffer but you do sacrifice a percentage of the instant power capability of the higher amp esc's.

I hope it works for me too. :p

I might tweak with the controller and adjust the subtrims or something so that the "neutral" the ESC will see when my throttle trigger is between neutral and full brake is just infront of full brake, but not enough to engage throttle (like in the little dead-band spot in between).

We'll see. My CRX seems to be very good about holding EPA adjustments properly.

yes simple ohms law. P=VI. 500wattts=50voltsX10Amps or 10voltsX50Amps. You get my drift.

Gotta remember the resistance factor in there...

50v will only draw 10A if the resistance is 5 ohms. 10v will draw 50A with a 0.2 ohm load. Both do generate 500w.

Yes, that's the reason for a HV setup being more efficient.

Yeah, I just want to make sure some people realize that simply adding more voltage on an existing setup will just increase current. You need to increase the motor winds quite a bit when you increase voltage if you want less current.

Yea, for ~40,000RPM, I need a 20 turn 1530 motor, which is dang high (way higher than I had ever expected). But it should fly :D

and/or regear ... :)

Not exactly...no amount of regearing will change the fact that most motors lose efficiency above 40,000RPM.

who said it runs above 40K?

And a setup with 85 percent efficiency can draw less current than one with 95 percent efficiency..

Why do you say motors loose efficiency above 40k RPM? Which motors exhibit this behaviour?

Motors run most efficiently when iron losses and copper losses are equal. Copper losses increase as torque load increases (current goes up), while iron losses increase when RPM increases.

Obtaining maximum motor efficiency is a balancing act of seeing how much torque you need, and running your motor so that its RPM is high enough to deliver the required torque after gearing and low enough to achieve an equal balance between iron and copper losses at these torque levels.

In e-heli world, high performance setups are chosen so that motors run just below their peak RPM where heat buildup increases exponentially due to iron losses. At that point the motor delivers the highest torque after gearing before copper losses become too high.

Well maybe it isn't 40K but it sure as hell isn't as high as 100k...

What's your point?

Brian said:

Yeah, I just want to make sure some people realize that simply adding more voltage on an existing setup will just increase current. You need to increase the motor winds quite a bit when you increase voltage if you want less current.

Aragon said:

and/or regear ...

So I was trying to make a point that gearing wouldn't solve the whole incresed current with increased voltage problem and you needed to increase motor turns.

Here's a must get for your CC HV setup:
http://www.rc-hydros.com/pistix.html

Thanks goes to Serum for the link

Well, there is actually a pretty big possiblity that I'm giving up the whole high voltage setup.

Instead, I'm just going to run 4S with a Mamba Max ESC. The reason is because I found flightpower packs which have a much better current rating than the cells I was going to use. Also, I'm going to temporarily run a Mamba Max in my G2R until the Monster Maxx comes out, so I'm just going to transfer the Mamba Max to the CRT.5, so I won't be buying all these ESC's.

However, if I do, I'll keep that in mind for sure! Thanks

Which flightpower packs are you referring to?

Does anyone know what cells FMA is using in their new Cellpro Revolution LiPo packs? The prices seems pretty reasonable for 20C cells:
http://www.fmadirect.com/products.htm?cat=69&nid=4

I've been pondering on trying the mamba maxx but I would have to buy a whole new set of lipos and it doesn't like NEU motors so I decided to give the HV a try again. I just picked up a HV110 and one of those adapters (Hopefully the wife doesn't notice :028: )

Any updates on the HV110 with the adapter? Did it fix the throttle brake issues.:032:

I'm looking for a HV esc for a speed project I'm working on a 5-6s+ rc18 and I may try 6-8s in the CRT.5 with a front wing and go for a 1/12th scale record?

FWIW, I'm experimenting with Kontronik Jazz controllers in my cars. So far I've been pretty happy with a 40-6-18 in my RC10 on 3S, and this controller can do upto 6S.

I've got a 1:8 conversion in the (seemingly never ending) pipeline that I plan to power with a Jazz 55-10-32 and 10S lipo.

Hi, one of my other project cars is a RC-10L2. I have on hand a Feigao 380c 13t(3125 KV). As a test I once put that motor and a Mamba 25 in my Yokomo YR-F2 (6 cell nimh) and it performed much like a 19t brushed. The Mamba 25 barely got warm. Do I dare put the Mamba 25 and the Feigao 13T in the RC-10L2 with a 4s lipo (20c)? I do know the instructions say that 4s lipo is " at your own risk". Am I going to smoke my Mamba 25? Thanks, Don