yes sure you can cover those holes. i was just thinking that the way the motor is engineered with the open can was for a reason and not just by accident. the neu motors are actively used in the helicopter scene. and my guess is that the open can and the "cooling" airflow does have a function for the efficiency of those motors. so closing the motor is fine for truck applications. but it is very probable that it will have an effect on the efficiency of the motor. i am not an engineer so that effect may be so small that it is negligible.

but to come back to the initial question of this thread. i guess a 4S or 14 cells with a maxximum would be a fine setup in the maxx for the track. of course an adequate neu will do the same and is probably easier to get and have support in the us.

i just stepped in this thread because i do not see any reason aside of availability that would make me favour a neu clearly over a plettenberg as it was stated somewhere in the beginning of this thread.

bye
rhylsadar

in an airplane the motor is on a constant load, and will get hotter because of that. It might run in a less efficient area from time to time on an MT, but still; 94% eff. at a 2500 watts load means a 150W heat and 88 percent eff. at a 700 watt load means 84 watts of heat. The monster (Mike) won several races with his Neu 1515 on 4S. My neigbour ran a 1512 on his revo on 4S and the motor was icecold.

I would advice you the neu for several reasons. The plettenberg is hard to get, it might look nice though.. But a fan isn't helping its efficiency either.

Rhylsader; i advice you to try a neu. you'll love them.

the neu motors are on my list of "consideration" for quite some time.
:028:

ryhls

I run the same motor as Mike, the 1515 1/y on 4s and have also run it on 5s (got a tad warm on 5s though). I have several runs with constant running in a field barely taking my finger off the trigger. And, i have also done test runs doing hard starts and stops. This motor at the end of a full run stays so cool that I can keep my hand on for ever. Also, it's so efficient, my controller has yet to get over 100*F in 76* weather so far.

If you are running 4s, and want decent speed, yet bashable power, and dependability, the 1515 1/y is what you want. If you want more volts and speed, maybe the 1515 2.5D (which I think is much like a 1950/8 if I'm not mistaken).

thanks guys i think i will go with the 1515 1y this will be best for me because speed is important but effecienty and reliability and consistanty is more important.

I think thats an great combo! Good choice!

For a 4S battery configuration, with speed as a concern, you probably couldn't have chosen a better motor. I like to go fast too, but like to stay on the sane side of insanity. For me, it was a choice between the 1Y and 2.5D. Since I've gone to 5S, the 2.5D is what I'm shooting for now.

thats the same motor I am looking for for 5s. now I just have to wait for them to come back in stock.

Geez, a 1Y on 5S. That's nuts!! That's almost 40k rpms. That thing outta fly.

Who said the 1Y on 5s? I think he means the 2.5d on 5s, is that right gixxer?

But yah, that would be pretty sweet thing!

yeah I meant the 2.5d for 5s. I hope to put that motor in a losi 8ight-t.

Oh, OK. I misunderstood. Yeah, Mike has my Compro right now. He got it today, and hopefully he'll be able to take a look at it. He wants to confirm that there is something wrong with it before it gets sent off to the Czech Rep. If/when it gets back and everything is right, I'm going to be me a 2.5d. I just don't want to get the motor until I know that I have a controller to run it.

I was looking at an 8ight-T today. The owner of my LHS wants me to do an electric converson for him on one. Be sure to post some pics of yours. I'm still not decided on how I'm going to go about it. Although my friend liked the 8ight buggy that I did for him to run, I was less than satisfied with the way it came out. Everything seemed so crowded.

When I do the truck, I think I'm either going to go with a motor over the diff config or put the motor where the servo goes and move the servo to where the tank is and then use series pack(s) to even out the weight distrib. I'm going to have to put some thought into it. When we did the buggy, we were in kind of a hurry to crank it out, but I want to make sure that the truck is right.