LOL, that makes sense. :)

So, it should look like this:

(I borrowed and edited your original pic Cajun; I hope it's ok...)

I'll swap it around before the motor goes on. :013: Thanks for the heads up. Nice job on the mount, Mike, it goes on easily and fits perfectly. I set the front plate and the base with lock-tite and left the rear brace screws lock-tite-less for now. I'll adjust and lock it down when the motor is in place.

I could have probably forced the mount on without notching the roll bar, but figured I didn't want to start forcing stuff already. I don't think it lost much structural stability, it doesn't seem to flex any more than before I notched it and the motor mount slides right on.

Thanks again for all the help. I'm sure I'll have a ton more questions. Now I just have to decide on a motor and ESC combo to run in it. Any suggestions?

Oh and Brian, I'm going ahead with the batts to one side. It makes sense with the way the chassis is made. 14 stacked fit's just behind the steering servo with room to spare to the suspension. Thanks for the info on that one. Now I just need to build a couple of sub-c bricks. :027: I'm going to make sure I can accomodate a 4s lipo pack in the tray as well for later use. Tanks again for all the help!

Cajun

As soon as I posted the fixed image, I literally ran downstairs and fixed the rear motor brace. :)

If you go with a single stronger steering servo, you can ditch the one in front of the batteries to make room for your receiver box or whatever (don't forget the Proline Al steering arm if you do this). The way I have my tray made, I have room for 14 cells or 5s1p 10Ah maxamps lipos.

As far as a motor goes, you should buy my 10XL so I can get a Neu. ;) Seriously, if you want to save some $$$, I'd say use the MM and a 9XL on 14 cells or 4s lipo. If you want hi-end, the Quark 125 and a Neu. Eventually, I want to get a Neu for this beast.

Yes mine clears the roll bar, only just.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0924.jpg
The motor isn't bolted on. I just set on the mount.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0926.jpg

I think it depends somewhat on how you have the stock Nitro mount situated. I had mine as low as it can go and it rubbed a little. I just muscled it in though. :)

BTW: your Revo looks nice (but wayyy too clean :))! I take it you are keeping the 2 speed tranny and using mechanical brakes? I'm sure you know this, but you won't be able to use reverse with the stock tranny without mods...

Well I just bought it. Last Monday it was still in the box. I wasn't going to post about the project till I had it running, but you asked.

Yes, I'll be using the 2-speed trans with mechanical brakes (both front and rear). I wanted to try high voltage so I am using CC PHX 110-HV with a PiStix adapter. Power will be from a single 6S1P 3700 EVO-20 pack. I wanted to start off slow so I'm using a BK 12XL which at 22.2v shouldn't be too bad.

I should still have reverse with the use of the 3rd channel. Unless the servo Y connection for the throttle doesn't work and I have to use channel mixing. I'm new to RCs so I'm still learning what works and doesn't. But isn't that what all of us are doing here? Seeing what works and how well. I still have more to put on the truck but it's getting there. I don't have as much time to work on it as I would like. Work looks like it's going to be slowing down this week. So I might be able to knock out some mounting plates for the ESC and batt and get it running.

Cool.

6s on a 12XL should be gentle on the batts and give you ~25 minutes (maybe 30) runtime. Sounds nice.

Be careful with mechanical reverse, it's quite weak. Many people wreck the reverse gear. But yeah, it should work.

Good luck and keep us posted! Looks good so far!

are my eyes playing tricks on me?

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0926.jpg

Looks like the motor is at an angle?

Right, long run times, cool temps and good speed.

I don't think I'll need reverse much. I'll mostly be running it in fairly open areas. But for those rare times it might be nice to have. This isn't a racer so a little weight for some added convenience is fine. I plan on hanging around and keep you all updated with progress. This is a nice forum with a fair bit of knowledge and talent so I'll be around.

No, you are correct the motor was at a slight angle. There is a blurb in the post about it just being set in there. I did bolt it on today though.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0927.jpg

I do plan to go to a single steering servo eventually, but the budget may keep it double for a while. I have two HS645MG servos a buddy gave me, that I may swap out for the stockers just to get a little more pull out of the steering and drop in a HD servo saver spring for the time being. Next on the list is the motor and ESC and all the little particulars to get it under power. I'm hoping to have her up and running by this time next month.

Have you decided on the batt tray material yet? Let me make another suggestion vs alu.

I used UHMWPE (Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene, see item 4296A22 from Mc Master Carr.) A 12"x12" sheet is only ~$10. I orig did mine with 2"x2" angle to make lay-down style trays on ea side and it worked extremely well. The angle only comes in white however, but sheets are available in a number of colors (if you care.) The motor side was slightly wide, but this wouldn't be a concern in your case or by not using angle.

Not only inexpensive, the plastic is rated as "unbreakable" in impact tests, is easy to work (much like wood) and is light. 1/4" is recommended, but its half the weight of CF 0.91 g/cc (floats), so its no more than 1/8" CF (@ ~1.7 g/cc.) My two batt tray weigh less than 100g, and has lot of material to trim if I cared.

It can also be drilled and taped as well, and is pretty strong, but I used 4-40 standoffs (also from MMC) & flat head screws which fit perfectly in the 4mm mounting holes for the rx boxes/ gas tank. Its extremely strong this way, I could beat my trays with hammer and bend the chassis 1st I bet. with a little work, the trays would be trimmed to mount the chassis tabs flush for a smooth bottom as well.

http://img330.imageshack.us/img330/5...2925bm7.th.jpg
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/8...2924xj5.th.jpg
http://img173.imageshack.us/img173/6...2927tg3.th.jpg

That's really interesting, could you post some larger photos?

stupid thing, thumbs were supposed to link to originals.

Links instead:
http://img173.imageshack.us/img173/639/img2927tg3.jpg
http://img330.imageshack.us/img330/5204/img2925bm7.jpg
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/8093/img2924xj5.jpg

That stuff's really interesting. Do you by chance know how hard it is to bend? I'm assuming it'll take some heat. I'd like to try the 1/8" thick black sheet and see if I can make the tray I was thinking out in aluminum as well as getting some 1/4" x 2" x 1" channel that I know will work. As cheap as it is I'll probably get some angle too, while I'm ordering I might as well make it worth while. I would like to move my E-Maxx batteries below the chassis and I think this stuff might do the trick.

You can bend it, but it depends on the thickness. 1/8" is fairly easy to bend, I would not recc that for batt trays, it won't be stiff enough. I actually use a 1"x1/8" strip as a roll hoop that goes across. Its very tough, but has enough spring and flexibilty to absorb those bad lid-down landings or flips and keep everything safe.

1/4" is quite stiff tho and will not bend easily. If you really wanted to shape it, you may be able to use a heat gun to soften it, bend it and let it cool. Just be careful tho. Softening temp is 150F, and deforming temp is ~180F. Not super high, but way higher than your batts will ever get.

I tried some channel, but was not to satisfied w/ it. The dimensions are not quite right (~1.5" inner width,) and the bottom ends up being very thick, ~3/8" even on "1/4" " channel. 2x2" (and cut down) angle is the easiest way to go for that shape, if you don't mind the white or care to dye it (RIT won't dye this tho.) I used some small velcro strap to secure the batts width wise instead on the second wall. The material cuts easy, a wood saw and other wood tools work well w/ it.

I do enjoy reading about other peoples projects, and this one is yet another great example of..... something cool.
On the E-maxx battery mounting front, have you seen this?-

http://craftlab.net/pic/tech/4emaxxbat/b8.jpg

http://craftlab.net/pic/tech/4emaxxbat/b9.jpg

http://craftlab.net/pic/tech/4emaxxbat/b7.jpg

http://craftlab.net/pic/tech/4emaxxbat/b1.jpg

http://craftlab.net/pic/tech/4emaxxbat/b2.jpg

http://craftlab.net/pic/tech/4emaxxbat/b3%20.jpg

http://craftlab.net/pic/tech/4emaxxbat/b4.jpg

http://craftlab.net/pic/tech/4emaxxbat/b5.jpg

Nice trays Neil and I think I'm going to give the stuff a try Finnster. Thanks again.

Well, I just ordered the rest of the stuff to get my Revo together. I got a 9XL Wanderer motor, RCM XL heatsink and clamp, the MM ESC, UBEC, and a couple of 5mm pinions (a 20T & an 18T). I have all my trays and brackets mocked up in card board and I'm about to start fabbing them. I should have the stuff by mid-week, so hopefully I'll have her together in a couple of weeks. If you guys can think of anything I missed, let me know.

:004:

Cajun

The mail lady (oxymoron? :D ) just dropped my stuff off at my house! WOHOO!

The bad news is my new kitchen cabinets were delivered today as well and most of my time for the next couple of weeks will be spent installing them. :031:

But did I mention my E-Revo stuff came in today! :004:

Who cares abut ladies and kitchens when RC arrived at your doorstep..

^^^ +1. Really, man - where ARE your priorities?!

I couldn't believe what i was reading either.. Speaking of which.. I've got a hellfire to build!

I really think you ought to finish your e-Revo first. ;)

A couple of weeks to install a few cupboards.... drink 10 cans of redbull and take a packet of pro-plus; you'll be finished in an hour!

Too funny..

To be honest, the revo is nearly finished.. but that's not the only truck that's waiting to be finished.. the hellfire is screaming my name at this moment, i think i need to obey..

Well, since my wife is so understanding about RC, the least I can do is install the new kitchen. I could probably do it in 3 or 4 days, but I have that darn job thing to worry about too. I also have to gut and paint the kitchen before the new stuff can go in. Don't worry though, my OCD will kick in and the E-Revo will be breathing fire before you know it!

Ah, the wife.... I understand now. And jobs, those get in the way of our fun alot too.... Never mind eh, something to look forward.

Ok, I have a question right off the bat. The motor didn't come with any mounting screws, what size should I use? I don't want to screw up my brand new motor by using screws that are too long.

Thanks guys!
Cajun

3mm diameter, but the length depends on how thick them mount is, and whether you use the RCM heatsink/clamp (it adds ~1.5mm thickness). I usually turn the screw very gently into the unmounted motor and when it touches a coil, back off 3 or 4 turns. That'll tell you how deep to go.

Thanks, I can figure it out from there. I will be using Mike's mount and heatsink, so I'll figure out what to add for those.

Here's some progress photos:

Paper mock up of trays and mounts:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...perMockUp1.jpg

Aluminum beat into submission:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...uminumFab5.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...uminumFab7.jpg

Trays and mounts sanded, painted and bolted in place:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup1.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup2.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup3.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup4.jpg

With electrics sitting in place:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup6.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup7.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...on/Mockup9.jpg

Stay tuned, more to come!

Good job man! That's a very different setup!

What did you end up doing with the tranny (lock into second, keep 2 speed, etc)? Also, is that Hammered finish paint I see? I love that stuff - it makes a nice hard finish.

Thanks Brian! The idea was to get it as compact as possible. I want to be able to use a stock body without it being pushed out. The batt tray should accompdate up to 16 cells. The only drawback to the configuration I see is that I'm going to have to lengthen the ESC to motor leads by a few inches.

I locked the tranny into 2nd using your method. That is Rustoleum Hammered finish paint. I love that stuff too, nice and hard plus it hides all the imperfections better than any other spray paint I've found.

I have a couple of little things coming from Tower to finish the setup, then I'll be ready to run.

Yeah, hiding imperfections is a "good" thing. :)

A little tip: So you don't need to use as much of the more expensive hammered paint (or multiple layers) to cover the pinholes, spray a thin coating of flat black metal paint first, let dry for 10-15 minutes, and then go over with a thin layer of the hammered stuff. Seems to work better than primer, covers pinholes much easier, and is more chip resistant for some reason. BTW: Your paint job looks fine, this is just for future reference.

looks great, wish mine came together so quickly, will you be testing this wkend or next

Thanks for the compliment and thanks for turning me on the RC-Monster!

I'm hoping to be testing this weekend, but I have a bunch of other stuff going on too. If I can get that stuff out of the way I'm going to get it up and running. If not, it may be another week or so.

Thanks for the tip Brian, I'll try it next time I'm using the hammered finish paint.

That is a different approach to mounting up the electronics, but I kinda like it- everything has a specific place, its not just stuck down where-ever.
Good work there dude, now go finish the kitchen before the missus starts complaining....

Thanks! I just sat down with it and my foam core mock ups once I had all the nitro stuff striped off and started thinking about where everything would fit. I also wanted to be able to access everything without having to remove a bunch of brackets, as well as making everything as compact as possible while using only the stock mounting holes and tabs. I also didn't want to modify my chassis incase I ever wanted to go back to nitro on this one. It took some thought and several paper versions, but I finally figured out how to make it happen. I can access, remove or work on any part of the truck without removing anything I added. I guess it helps that I'm a designer/architect by trade and spend a lot of time thinking about how to make things work conceptually then how to make it happen in the real world.

I actually started the kitchen last night, so I'm good there too. But your right, gotta keep the little woman happy so my RC addiction can get fed. :D

I managed to get everything installed and programmed today. Thanks to all you guys for helping me out, I couldn't have done it without you. I'm hoping to have it on the wheels tomorrow after work for the real test in the back yard. If all goes well, I'm planning on being at the track on Tuesday to see how it handles that. Wish me luck. :D

Harness for UBEC & fans:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...iringSteps.jpg

Final wiring steps:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...ringSteps1.jpg

Ready to run:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...ringSteps3.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...ringSteps4.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...ringSteps7.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...ringSteps8.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...ingSteps10.jpg

Nice so far! Good luck on the testing!

FWIW: The mini Deans are plenty for the UBEC - no need to use full size Deans plugs. They won't hurt though. :)