Alright I've found a couple threads talking about this issue but not always solid results. What worries me so much is I haven't even tried to move the buggy yet!

The connectors I got are very small... small enough that the female plugs slide inside the orginal 4mm MM ones. So I'll try to direct solder the motor wires. Dean's are on the battery wires so I'm not too concerned there.

Next I'll try playing with the timing and punch control on the MM.

Any other suggestions?

If the CD is binding, a simple gasket should solve that easily enough. However, a binding CD would effectively lock it, but won't cause the cogging issues. How free is the driveline without the motor hooked up? I assume the mesh is set perfectly (not too tight)?

Direct soldering the wires is always the best solution, but makes taking the motor and/or ESC out for maintenance a PITA. Unless the connectors were really loose or highly inadequate, you shouldn't notice much difference. The connectors that come with the MM are 4mm - not the absolute best, but should be ok.

I'd check MM settings like start power (set to default "med"), lipo cutoff (should be disabled with using NiXX), and torque limiting (I'd set it to 0%).

I've been wondering what people mean when they say gasket for a Hyper 7/8. Is it the thin red rubber ring that seals it or the blue gaskets for a Jammin or 9.5. I was going to try the rubber seal with the blue gasket, but I have both so I can try it different ways. As far as the drive train goes I can't drive the car at all because the spur hit the chassis just slightly. I'm hoping the gasket is enough that it will fit or I'll have to enlarge the hole in the chassis slightly.

My cogging problem is with everything outside the car. It is very noticeable because I am holding the motor. It seems really weird that it should be as fast as everyone says it will be because my Novak 13.5 feels like more power than the Feigao (except when cogging). Weird.... Anyhow I'm wondering if it will even happen as much on the track. It's only when the rotor is stopped that it does it... I have the drag brake set on the MM so when I let off the throttle the motor stops (with no load), however on the track if I don't come to a complete stop the motor should still be spinning some so I probably won't have the cogging (at least I hope). Between that and some settings on the speed control I hope it goes away.

I'm unclear about something. First you say that the connectors that you got are smaller than the connectors on the MM, but you also said that you were running the setup and then you make reference to hardwiring.

How did you make the connections to get it running when you saw the cogging? A bad connection like a loose on or a bad solder joint will definitely introduce some pretty horrible cogging.

A brushless motor will pull as many amps as it needs to meet the demands that you put on it. Although I may be wrong, for this reason, I run my MMs at the highest start power setting with the timing on the lowest setting. My systems run very well like this and as cool as a Feigao can run.

I would look to the connections first and if you haven't hardwired yet, go ahead and do that, unless you have some good connectors. I'd say that the 4mm connectors and just barely adequate for a 1/8 scale application.

Sorry I wasn't clear.... I ordered the motor expecting a Wanderer (because that was the picture) so I ordered some of the 5.5 connectors. When I got the package it was a Feigao and a bunch of connectors but they are very small (I think 2.5mm). They came from Mike so I'm assuming they are quality just seemed a little small. So I hooked everything together using the new connectors I received removing the 4mm original on the MM. I know people mentioned hard wiring or using larger connectors that's why I'm thinking about hard-wiring the MM to motor. I also just changed the settings on the MM so I'll see how that goes.

Not to take this thread in a different direction but I'm surprised so many of you seem averse to the 4mm connectors...honestly for the last few years I've been running the 3.5mm connectors on my BL 1/8th truggy. With the ESC I'm using, I *have* to use 3.5's from the ESC and they were on the motor so I never changed anything.

In a perfect world, what connectors would you guys want to use? 4mm? Something bigger?

Thanks,

DM

Tis ok MacII... I think I've been reading around the forums and it might even have been stated on an earlier page here to use 5.5 or hard-wired. At least that was someone's opinion. We'll see what others say.

Ok my first try was just the MM settings...
punch control - disabled
Timing - lowest
start power - medium

This was much better... if I eased into the throttle the cogging was pretty much gone... even a medium squeeze it was there but I don't think I would notice much driving the buggy. I ran it for about 4 min with no fans checking the temps and was a little surprised. The MM never got over 105 degrees... but the motor got up to 175 degrees. Now what really surprised me was the wiring between the motor and the speed control. The wires from the motor were quite hot like the motor... but then from the connectors to the MM the wires were cool. I think that may be telling me my connection isn't very good. I would have expected the entire length of the wire to be reasonably close in temp from one end to the other. Am I correct?

The wires on the motor end are probably hot due to the motor being so hot. Why the esc wires were cool is beyond me. A hot motor/cool esc situtation is usually a sign of undergearing.

What gearing are you running? What motor (I can't remember)?

Try cranking the start power up to high. It should help. If you are having cogging problems and your motor is so undergeared as to get it that hot, I'm thinking that you have a connection problem. I would first try the largest connectors that you have or hardwiring.

I tried the 4mm connectors and they work fine for a while, but with the rigors of hard bashing and racing on the track, the male connectors loose their spring. I've actually had 4mm connectors just fall out of the female end. This same thing holds true for the 3mm connectors as well. I don't know why Lehner chose those connectors for their motors, but many here do one of two things.

They either order the hi amp versions of the motors, so that they can put their own connectors on the motor; or they just solder the wire directly into the 3mm socket on the motor.

I've been using the 5.5mm connectors. They are hefty and have a pretty high current rating.

I will be running 15/46 at first but right now the none of the electronics are in the buggy. I don't even have a pinion on the motor. So I guess that would be undergeared then wouldn't it. Geez sometimes you can't see what's right in front of you. Well it runs maybe I shouldn't worry about it so much till I get it in the buggy. I just wanted to make sure everything worked first.

running a motor unloaded will heat it up quickly

padailey, don't run that motor without a load like that. You don't want to over rev it. And yes, that would be an undergeared situation. The esc was probably so cool because it didn't have any demand on it.

15/46 sounds good for a 9XL or so. If you are running a 7XL, you might want to back off a couple of teeth. I usually run 12/46 with a 7XL, 14/46 with an 8XL and 16/46 with the 9XL. Lately I've been running 14/46 on the 9XL for the track and like it a lot.

I'd quit messing with it until you can get it installed.

Moderators could you move this to the brushless section. I've made my purchases so this thread is probably out of place now. I will have some more questions I'm sure so maybe the brushless section would be a better fit.

Thanks,

Paul

Moved :).

Ok maiden voyage complete!! Geez I've been spending so much time on it lately I was scared to drive it! :002: But I got over it! :027: At 15/46 the top end wasn't overly impressive but it didn't take long to get there!! Anyway I'm using it for racing so it should be good there.. maybe even better since our track is getting a new layout and the straight is even shorter than before. The braking was really quite impressive though.. basically just using drag brake. Slows quickly and evenly.. I like! Not super smooth at very low speeds but very manageable. It seems super heavy though.. I'll have to get it on the scales and then maybe a diet! I'll get pics out soon.

Well I've been taking it pretty easy so far... well at least not trying to mash the throttle too much and not from a dead start. But I experimented and was at a stop but on the throttle just a tiny bit so I could hear everything wanting to go forward (kinda like setting your throttle for a little creep) and mashed it... wow worked great!! So I went to the dirt and from dead stop.. throttle at neutral.. mashed it... @$#%$%^$# awful noise... thought the spur was gone, but its not. Please don't tell me its the diffs?!?!? I'll tear it apart tonight or tomorrow to check. What weight of oils are everyone running in their diffs? Wondering if I can just kinda follow what the nitro guys are doing or if I need something different. Also because my buggy is so heavy do I need to adjust for that.

Well it was the diffs... I just cleaned them up and rebuilt them and it ran awesome. Had my first race day with the "beast" on Sunday.... wow lots of fun and car worked quite well.

Temps..... I was a little unsure about this because just messing around my motor had hit 180 but hadn't run with my fans so I wasn't too worried but still not sure.
First Qual w/fans 6 min Motor - 175 ESC - 155.
Second Qual w/fans 6 min Motor - 165, ESC 150.
B Main no fans 10 min Motor - 160, ESC - 160. (Not sure why my fans wouldn't work but I think I might have had the wires connected backwards.) :(

Doesn't this show my gearing is pretty much right? I'm not concerned about going faster or slower it was about the same top end as any nitro I raced but quicker even with my buggy a little overweight.

I did manage to bump up to the A main. I was running Platinum 4800 lipos in series and was pretty sure I could make it the whole 15 minute main if I drove smooth and didn't crash too much. The mah I had been using per min was going down as I drove better... 1st qual 330mah/min, 2nd 280mah/min, B Main 260mah/min. But after the B I wasn't sure if I could get enough charge into the batteries. Well my chargers were only putting in .15A for a charge when I had to pull them off so they were nearly done. Started the A and about 5-6 minutes in someone pulled the plug on the computer... had to restart the race!! RATS!! Had been up to 5th at one point! Anyway I knew I couldn't make it another 15 minutes so I just took it easy hoping for some cars to have problems but no one did. The race director announced 20 secs left and I was about to cross the loop and I thought "woo hoo I'm gonna make it!" 5 seconds later the lipo cutoff kicked in!! lol

You Des Moines guys should get on over to Omaha and show the Nitro boys here the real potential of an electric 1\8 scale. I'm just a novelty show! lol

Congrats on the success of your conversion. I'm glad to hear that it went well for you.

Hope you get things sorted so I can say the same FOR YOU!

Well, I'm hanging on, but slowly losing interest. I've actually gone two days without touching any of my trucks. If/when it gets to be fun again, I'm sure that I'll dive right back in. Thanks for the sentiment though.

Here's a couple pics of Phase I.

And a few more.....

I like that "electric $0.00 per gallon", that's great.

Thanks.... I had to have a little fun with it!

Got a question on my motor.... It came in a Feigao box with a Feigao sticker on it but it's blue... I thought the Nemesis were blue? Just trying to get more educated!!

The Wanderers are blue too. Maybe they changed the color?

Maybe they did and are using up the old stock of boxes!?! lol The picture on the box is purple with three different colored wires.... the actual motor is blue with all blue wires. Hmmmmm.........

I had the exact same thing... 3 blue wires, and a blue can. But I don't mind because it works awesome!!:027:

The nemesis series motors are also feigao, simply a different color. I wouldn't worry too much. Even the wanderers are only slightly updated Feigaos, so either way you're set.

My last 8XL was blue with the blue wires. I even had blue heatshrink the same color on the connectors. I also noticed that the ends of the can were dimpled (unlike my 7XL), likely to help retain the endbells better.

Yep mine has the dimples also... I'm not worried either cause it does work great I was just wondering.

I've been having some issues with my suspension.... not sure if it's cause its a little heavy or its something else but it just doesn't rebound well and tends to bottom out a little more than I'd like. I'm gonna try going about as stiff as I can and see what happens.

Even with the "dimples", the end plate still comes off fairly easily. I would definitely still use some type of clamp and/or support the rear of the motor.

I'm working on that... The motor is supported underneath by the old nitro motor mounts. As I've adjusted some things around they don't work as well as they did when I first got it together but there is some support there. I thought I had something figured to clamp the motor to the mounts and hold the motor together but it just didn't work out so I'm back to the drawing board. I have another idea but haven't gotten it worked out yet.

If running the RC-Monster heatsink, just use a piece of aluminum angle on the back part where it clamps and attach to chassis. That is what I did when I ran XL motors in my buggy.

Where is everyone getting this aluminum angle? I found a place online www.onlinemetals.com but I'd rather get something locally so I can get what I need rather than re-order more when I screw up! lol

Just order a foot or so. That way you have extra to play with.