That looks awesome. Looks capable too. A question though, the centre drive shafts, how do they cope with the articulation without binding. I've seen lots of these and I'm impressed that the full articulation can be reached without the drive shafts binding.

The driveshaft angles don't really change much when the crawler articulates. But even if they changed more than they do, it wouldn't be an issue since they're slider shafts.

Thanks for the comments!

I suppose they wouldn't change too much would they. That is really a sweet looking chassis metal man. I'm surprised you haven't made it 4 wheel steer.

Some day it would be nice if I could enter this crawler into a competition, so I tried to build it around those rules. Unfortunately rear steer isn't legal, but I'd have a hell of a time mounting another servo. This chassis really makes it difficult to mount everything!

nice work metalman. you got skillz.

Thanks!

Soon I'll be throwing an AX-10 front axle on because my front narrowed Wheely King axle can't take the abuse, and the AX-10 axle is only 1/4" wider than my narrowed WK axle.

A bit off subject, but I was wondering what it takes to use maxx sliders as center driveshafts? Main issue is that the ax10 axle and the pede tranny have 5mm output s and the maxx sliders are 6mm... I have seen it done and wonder what people did to make it work...

I like the body-less crawler, looks cool!

Thanks!

Obviously it's been a while since I updated this thread, but the crawler is now running AX-10 axles front and rear with an Airtronics 780 steering servo. The front diff gears are the hardened ones for the HPI MT2 (same ratio as stock) and the rear diff ring gear is stock, while the rear diff pinion gear is from a Wheely King.

These diff pinion gears look like this:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXJYM2&P=K
There is a hole in the diff pinion gear for a screw pin to go through it, just like you will find on the Maxx/Revo/Savage/Rustler/etc. The shaft diameter is 5mm.
Now see here:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDDT2&P=7
That T-Maxx transmission output yoke has a 5mm inner diameter, as you will find here:
http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/4910-08_tranny.pdf
The yoke is made to fit shafts with flats on them, so you have to drill out the yoke with a 5mm drill bit to make sure it will fit onto a 5mm round shaft.
Then you can use a regular Maxx driveshaft (4951X if my memory serves correctly).

As for the transmission, you can use the same yokes, but you'll have to shave down the end so it won't interfere with the transmission case.

Good info, thanks!

Comparing the Maxx shafts to 'Pede/Rustler or stock AX-10 driveshafts, Maxx driveshafts win hands down :yes:.

I figured that, I have had some issues on my cr-01 with both the stock driveshafts (redefine the word "suck") and pede sliders. I have some homemade brass collars that work well, but the cr-01 has steep driveshaft angles, is geared for 10mph, and runs a novak 13.5... bit too much power!

I will see if the lhs has the 4927x yokes. Hope so, as that would make my like simple...