What I have done on mine ClodMaxx is put shock pistons (white plastic things that go in your shocks) under the bars, the screw fits through the middle of the piston thing into the strap bar great. So it acts like a spacer.

So I can fit Lipo on it now.

done! (mostly)
 

finally got all the pieces put back together, adjusted, added loctite, and took her out for some final shots today. the *only* things left are adding the new strobe limiters i have (gotta order longer shock tower screws...they're not the stand-alone limiters) and get a couple bodies painted. right now i have a trashed second-hand body i'm using for general bashing.

here's a list of everything on it:
- Lehner 1940/7 hi-amp brushless motor w/RC-Monster heatsink
- Mamba Max ESC w/5.5mm gold connectors
- UE Lightning chassis
- UE EXT Pro suspension
- UE towered VBS with 8 spider diff gears (titanium VBS skid plates, titanium jounces, VBS aluminum bumpers)
- UE Monobloc extension w/custom stainless steel rear center dogbone driveshaft made due to extended length
- UE titanium front center dogbone driveshaft
- UE front/rear 8mm hardened steel driveshafts (w/boots)
- UE genIV servo saver
- UE RacerX supershocks (8)
- UE hardened steel idler (stock tranny converted to single speed)
- UE SuperMaxx Racing Wheels (Sun 7 design) on IMEX Trail Dawg tires
- Pro-line 40-series Wabash wheels mounted on Pro-Line 40-series Mulcher tires
- Dace 23mm wheel adapters
- Strobe slipper
- Strobe sprong
- Strobe limiters
- DD VBS wing mount w/Mugen MBX5 wing mount and stay & Pro-Line high downforce wing
- Hitec 5955 steering servo
- Spektrum DX 3.0 radio/receiver

shots with the SM Racing Wheels:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../279557041.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../279557028.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../279557033.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../279557037.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../279557040.jpg

i also used a combination of 'orange sunshine' and 'scarlet' RIT dye last night on my wabash wheels. the color scheme will match a true-fire body i plan to paint - they certainly don't go with the crappy basher body. :grrrrrr:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../279557050.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../279557048.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../279557044.jpg

sweet looking truck. i bet its a blast to beat on ($$$$$$$flush$$$$$$) alot of people would retire that thing on the display shelf.

well i don't beat on it, but i didn't build it to be a shelf queen either...

What a beauty. That thing should be driving down the red carpet. :lol:

How is the Lehner 1940/7 and MM doing? It should run normal because it is a 2 pole motor.... Does the MM heat up a lot in such a big MT? I have only tried the MM in a 1/8 buggy which is quite a bit smaller than yours, and it heats up quite a bit, which is why I added a fan. Is yours similar in terms of heat?

i'm still tweaking the settings on my MM... had it out tonight for about 10 minutes, and brought it back in to tweak them some more. temps didn't seem too bad, but i didn't push it at all - my goal tomorrow is to see what she's got. if it gets too hot, i'll gear down... i think fans are band aids. right now gearing is 51/15, but i have 5 other mod1 pinions - a 12, 14, 17, 18 and 20 that i can go up or down from, based on temps.

from the little bit i've been driving it so far, the MM/Lehner combo doesn't cog at all... i can crawl pretty slow too. i'm not sure what it'll do at higher speeds, but so far it seems as smooth as my old sensored HV 6.5 system.

Scot your truck is absolutely beautiful. I would definately run it, but carefully.

If only you could breed from it, 'cos that is a thoroughbred machine if ever I saw one.

thanks again mark and neil.

i just got back in from about 15 minutes of bashing around with her. i ended up taking the MM settings back to factory specs, except i put punch control at 60%.

i'm amazed and confused at the same time.

this thing handles like a dream. it blew me away. it's now so long and flat that i took some turns that i thought for sure would put it into a horizontal barrel roll. i had the proline steering rack for so long that i never realized how good steering could be - the UE gen IV servo saver is worth it's weight in gold. and wow do those mulchers bite! they're definitely my favorite tires so far.

now, the perplexing part. the MM definitely heats up when farting around at slow speeds, which i knew would happen. it actually cooled off after doing a few speed runs. but it doesn't have the speed i thought it would. i didn't have my GPS attached, but i would guess it was going roughly high 20's in grass. no where near the calculator's specs of 40 at that gearing. but... there was absolutely zero cogging.

i have a feeling the custom rear driveshaft is rubbing on the bottom of the chassis - i'll have to pull it out and grind it down. after about 15 minutes of speed runs, the MM temps hovered at about 135, lehner temps were at about 105, and the batteries (matched ni-mh) were around 110. from a glance, that's telling me (barring the driveshaft problem) that i'm just a bit overgeared...which doesn't make sense. 51/15 should be conservative. but it's probably just that the MM isn't designed to handle the motor, the number of cells, and the size/weight of this truck. i may have to invest in a higher powered esc... darn it. :grrrrrr:

the batts weren't fresh, so i'm letting them cool down and will recharge them for a run later. i'll also pull the rear shaft out to grind some material down.

so, overall the first real run with this has mixed results. once the esc bugs are worked out i'd looooove to get this on a track - the handling just blew me away!

something is going on with the drivetrain. i pulled the motor away from the spur, put it on the floor and gave it a good push. it won't roll as easy as it should. *sigh* i hate this part... i may have to tear it down to see where the resistance is. i can't tell by looking/listening.

UE Going out of sale?
 

Does anybody know if UE is going out of sale? The reason I ask is because they are out of stock on everything except shocks, diffs, and servo savers. I need to buy some of their 6mm cvds...anybody know where I can get some?

UE has actually added stock lately - the gen IV savers were out, and now they show in stock. I visit UE forums frequently looking for the parts I'm missing for my Pred and SM in the BST forum. I can understand UEs point of view - he made a run of monoblocks earlier this year and has not sold them all. Why should he go to the expense of making new cvds, chassis, diffs, suspension kits etc when they don't sell? Lots of talk about new run of super sixes for trans - that never happened, prob never will.

I think he is just selling off NOS and when its gone, he's done. My 2cents worth.

ClodMaxx - Sorry to hear of the troubles - if it was too easy, you wouldn't appreciate it the way you will when you get there!! Maybe its just a wheel brg or something simple.

Nothing wrong with a set of blood red wheels with some flesh shredding Mulchers. :gasp:

I see are giving the 8 shock set up a try on this JurassicBeast too. Cant blame you there.

Dayum Scott, she sure looks great. Such a loooooong ride, :whistle: Kinda like a size16 shoebox on wheels. Can you imagine what those GIANT tires suicideneil runs would look like on your truck too?

That MambaMax doesnt deserve to be in your truck imo. That's like a big ole nasty printed Big Block with a 2-barrel carb. It just seems too basic. Dont sweat the little kinks too much. If anybody can figure them out you can. You know you like it. And when you finally get her in the sweet spot there will be nothing more satisfying. Yeah, I'm still jealous. :oh:

I have been away from the computer for days. Sure was nice to come back from vacation to find this purdy behemoth. :yes:

Now you mention it, I think the SM would look seriously mean with some Jumbo sized rubber mounted on each corner, but at 1lb each, they arent light wheels/tyres. Thats what makes my poor HvMaxx's life so hard, trying to gear for a 12lb truck isnt as simple as with a powerful Neu/lehner motor. That said, you should get there in the end.

As for the sticky drive line, I would say remove the tranny, then spin the front and rear wheels by hand to see if either is a bit rough/sticky etc- the wheels should spin down nice and gradually, not abruptly. You've stripped the thing down so many times it should be second nature by now I reckon.... :whistle:

doug - welcome back! hope you had a relaxing vacation.

i have those same tires, neil - got 'em for my stealth. i pre-mounted them on the SM and it does look mean, but you're right - they're hefty! i should have snapped a pic before i took 'em off.

more mixed results. this morning i threw a matched 7 cell pack on the discharge tray, and it fried. i had all the +'s and -'s lined up - i have no clue what happened. practically brand new, too. so - it's time to take the plunge into lipo. maybe some trueRC 8000 packs. i have to get a balancer too, so i can continue using both my Ice chargers.

the good news: i tore the back end off (separated it at the bulks) and there are wear marks on the custom driveshaft. i spun the center drive cup by hand and the rear wheels are smooth...didn't take the front off as i know i checked those too before putting it all together. so i took the monobloc off, and threw the stock titanium rear center dogbone on. once it was back together, it rolled quite free. problem solved. and now it's more 'shortbus' in length... lol.

the only batts i have is a pretty well used matched 7 cell set, so i'll throw those on the charger and see what kind of mess i can make today... :neutral:

sheesh, my luck is getting better and better. one of the two older 7 cell packs has a bad cell. i have no packs left to do any testing.

looks like i'll be going lipo sooner than i thought.

Scott you will love the lipos performance. You might even be able to shave a little weight off of that beast.:lol:

MuchO relaxing Scott.................1st vacation in over 14 months. :whip:

But you are just confusing me with all the battery stuff.:oh:

So I'm gonna throw this out there? Do you/will you have any loose IB4200 cells that are worth a hoot. I had a cell vent on me last week.

I can not imagine your truck being shortbus'd. I bet that sucker still has the streeeeeeeeetch limo look.

i just spent the last 8 hours doing some power-studying on batteries. almost went with a trueRC order, then trakpower lipos looked good, but i finally decided on a pair of a123 racing packs (each pack is 2s2p, 6.6v, 4600mah) and their hypersonic charger. had i gone lipo, i'd have to buy balancers to add to my Ice chargers, the lipos, and a LVC. now i can sell both of my Ice's since the hypersonic charger/balancer will charge in about 15 minutes. :yes: :yipi:

mark - the weight isn't bad at all. right now without batteries it's at 10 lbs. 8 ozs. That's not great, but it's not bad considering i've got an all-aluminum rig with 40 series wheels/tires, a wing and aluminum wing mount, and a 5 cell rx battery.

doug - i'll send you a PM on the remaining IB packs i have.

the batteries and charger should be here by this weekend!!! :yipi:

A123 cells, excellent choice. But- 13.2volts sounds a little low?...

yeah, not as much juice. i'll have to gear up to compensate. they don't make a 3s2p pack (i'd have to get a pair of 3s1p packs and wire them in parallel) so i'll most likely build one from a dewalt pack soon so i can run 5s. the question will be weather a stock MM can handle 5s... :diablo:

I'd say if you have a slightly older MM you'll be ok. 5s for the A123's is only 16.5v

i've decided to order a pair of the 3s1p packs from a123..not right away as i have to give the savings account a chance to recover from my latest a123 purchase. once i have those, i'll probably run 5s2p most of the time in the maxx - a single 2s2p on one side of the truck and a pair of 3s1p on the other side.

the best part is with those 4 sets of batteries, i'll be pretty darn versatile for other r/c's - i'll be able to run these configurations:
*2s2p
*3s1p
*4s2p
*5s2p
*6s1p

not bad for only 4 battery packs!

Don't forget

3s2p
7s2p

lol - never was good with math. thanks lincpinp.

wow, now that really is a lot of different configurations!

dropped in my new a123 racing packs - 4s2p - for a couple bash sessions this weekend. the MM esc got hot - i'd do a few speed runs then bring it back to let it cool for a few minutes before running again. i didn't have my heat gun with me, but i knew it was hot.

a 13lb truck doing speed runs in short grass, 4s2p a123 packs, geared 51/15 at first. i figured the hot MM meant the motor was pulling too many amps, so i geared up to a 20t pinion to try and load it more. same thing. hot. i didn't thermal the MM, but i bet i was close.

speeds weren't what i was expecting - less, actually. according to the speed calc, i should be getting about 37mph on 4s2p. i didn't have a GPS attached, but i would guess it was in low, low 30's. there is no binding anywhere either. i will say that there really was constant power all the way through the run though! that alone is a huge step up from the matched 7 cell ni-mh packs i was running previously.

i have a pair of 3s1p packs coming today, so i'll run it at 5s2p and see how that works. the MM is completely stock - no fans, no mods to it. if i have to i'll run a fan, but i'm thinking i may just have to get a controller better suited to the weight of the truck and power of my LMT motor. then maybe i can try out 6s2p. :diablo:

one quick question: i have the MM settings stock, except i have punch control at 60%. i know very little about the MM settings to help cool it - is there something i could change to lower the temps on this setup? it doesn't glitch at all, although it's not as smooth with a 20t pinion as it is with a 15t pinion.

You can try lowering the timing to lowest, may help with the temps. I would put a small fan on the MM if I were you, it helps alot with the temps. The little novak fans work well, just space it off the heatsink about 1/4" for better flow. This will most likely drop temps about 15-20f. If you want a better fan-less solution send your MM to artur(griffinru) to do his stage 1 mod. It will run soooo much cooler than stock. Check my threads for more info, it is under modded mamba max testing.

cool. i just sent artur a PM.

i'll run some tests (with heat gun and GPS) with the 5s2p setup after today...hopefully it stops raining too. i have an old novak fan in my toolbox that i may attach as well, and i'll make the timing change. if it's still too hot to run consistently, i'll send my MM to artur for stage 1.

has he sent your 'injured' modded MM back?

update:

new basher body. it's a discontinued Pro-Line Baja body (revo3.3 size) that they only had out for a short period, and then they pulled them from everywhere due to not having licensing agreements with VW. :oh:

it's not finished yet, but gives a good idea what it'll look like. i still plan to paint a true-fire body too, but this just gets me bashing with a lid. the ford body has to go... :no:

i'll be testing 5s2p a123 packs today with the MM. i'll try to get video, but my digital video camera has been acting up lately.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../281961916.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../281961910.jpg

Artur is on vacation till the 10th. He is supposed to see if he can fix my MM and if not he is going to use the brains for a new powerboard he may make.

Scott,

I dig the flat black basher body with the red/black wheels and the polished chassis. That's not typically my thing but I think it looks awesome!

Ooh, it looks so sinister with that black bodyshell & blood red rims, I like. As for *king* Arthur, hes the kind of guy who could build a supercomputer out of some sticks & gameboy, he really is rather talented.

Wow Scott, looking good.....as usual :whistle: I was just thinking about your body, ........erm uh, the V-Dub Bug body earlier this morning. I had been wondering what you were planning to do with it.

I needed a quick fix, so I went to check out your beastly SM, and there it was........The flat black Grim Reaper VW body :gasp: That thing's gotta looking nasty on the roll. Oh yeah now !!!! :yes:

Anything special to make it flat black ?

thanks guys. hmmm...halloween is coming up. maybe i could scare some kids with it! :gasp: :yes:

doug, the flat black is nothing special but i'm hoping it'll be durable. i used a rattle can of plasti-dip. flexible...with no cracking! kinda like my rubber chicken.

Nice body and truck!!!!!!!!

you may want to think twice about bashing that body, some are selling for good prices even with battle scars on them. i sold one for $200 with my lst roller(missing rx/tx only) and didn't know about the recall now i seen an ad where the guy is asking $100 for the body.

WHAT?! that thing can go for that much?! i have a maxx-length one that's unpainted - hmmmmm....

thanks!

nice build! hows the handling of the EXT arms, better than stock?

yep, check it out. also he has now lowered the price. but this is the one i painted and sold with my lst. its the revo 3.3 version.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=327323

waaaaay better than stock. this can explain the specific details that make it better. but it handles like a completely different truck - almost like it's not even an e-maxx anymore.