I know some companies that makes MOSFETs with metal casing, but it is mainly used in military applications and it can be somewhat expansive.

You do not want to do that if you plan to sink lots of Amps. Current design is great for given applications and it is much easier to deal with insulation of the tabs outside the package, while utilize FET's substrate as one connector and a heatsink at the same time.
There are 7 pin Dpak packages and direct-on Fet packages which are designed to maximize heat and current transfer.
The best way is to combine high-speed heatsinking (Copper) and low-speed (Alum), then ceramic can be utilized as long as it is very thin. And I think that is the idea behind all packages.

The best way is to combine high-speed heatsinking (Copper) and low-speed (Alum), then ceramic can be utilized as long as it is very thin. And I think that is the idea behind all packages.

So when we mod the quark are we better off using a copper or aluminum heat spreader ?. And would it better to have a heat sink made from copper also ?. Thank's

Since these ESCs don't produce a TON of heat, Al is fine IMO. I was just curious about adding metal tabs because it seems like these ESCs are getting large for high current. I figured if say, 10-12 FETs were intergrated into one long package with adequate cooling and terminals, the size could be reduced and manufacturing simplified.

Also, Al is lighter, cheaper, easier to obtain, and easier to work on.

I am working with Mike on Brass-Copper heatsink for Quark, updates will come pretty soon :)

I haven't seen nor touched his controller, so I do not know yet.
I thought we did the estimate with you before.

Thank's artur for the heatsink update. Whats your opinion on the heat spreader for the quark, copper or aluminum ?. Artur how have you been ?.

You welcome!
For Quark:
- use stock alum housing as external heatsink
- replace both alum internal plates with brass

Challenge:
- very tight inside
- galvanics, is it a problem? :)
- soldering...

I just heard from the engineer and he is having some trouble with the software. This is what he asked me: "We need to know when the brake apply. For example, to what exactly position you turn the trigger will just free the motor and to what position you turn the trigger will apply the brake." I told him that the brake has to be proportional with the trigger and it should not be applied when the throttle is at neutral. I know there is the "ms" things and I have no clue what they mean and if they could help them at all. Any inputs will be appreciated.

I have a question. Just for kicks, would a mamba esc "brain" board work with the your mega esc? That would be a nice mod as well.
But as of the neutral position, could dragbrake be applied at that position?

I thought about that when I saw the photo of my ESC, but I think it might be a little comples as the Mamba uses a different MPU.

My guess for "ms" is milliseconds. The transmitter sends out throttle pulses of 0-2ms long, depending upon the position of the trigger. 1ms is neutral. For airplane radios, I believe 0ms is neutral (since they don't have reverse).

Anything new yet? I got my Neu 1512 1.5d yesterday, and now my motor temps are down where they should be, but my MM is hot, hot, hot. I can get it over 200 running short bursts for about 2 minutes in my living room. Defiantely time for a new controller. Let us know how your project is coming.

I was hoping it would be done a couple of weeks ago, but the engineers had trouble with the car software. I will give them a call tonight to see what is going on.

Great work Lutach!

though the proportional brake seems to be a PITA to all the engineers. Did they took an existing design and simple added a bunch of FETT's?

I got some help from someone in the rumrunnerracing forum with the information the engineer was looking for. The design is very much like the Schulze 40.160 controller, but it seems like a simple design compared to the Schulze.

Bad luck is just raining on me this month. The engineer said he is really having trouble with the car software. He said he can have the airplane version delivered right away. I can't have that, mainly because he said he could do the ESC for cars. Maybe I just jinxed myself on this one. This is just one of the problem I was worried about. The good thing is that all the controllers are done, but they just need the right software.

Well, don't give up... this has been a common obstacle for all BL companies. Some are still trying to get good software after several years of product.

Well put. Keep the faith man. We need something better.

I wish I had learned Programming and Electronic Engineering when I had the chance.

I like to keep you all posted on the situation with the 200A controller. I asked the engineer to make 4 200A controllers, but he used sample boards and the unit(s) that was tested failed. Now I told him that is completely messed up since he said he could do a 200A car controller. He feels better doing a 100A controller, but I asked him to make a few 100A and some 80A and 60A controllers. I'm also waiting for another company to send me one of their controllers so I can test it. This one seems nice. It can use sensored and sernsoless motors and should come with a program box. Now the messed up part with this one is the fact that I missed the first delivery attempt on Friday and now it's past 7PM and I'm not sure if the driver will even show up today. I called UPS and they told me it's up to the driver now if he wants to deliver or if he wants to go home. Oh well, I hope it gets here LOL. I have attached a picture of the controller for you all to see.

Looks nice!

whats the cell count on them?

Lutach, ESC is automatic Cell Detection/Cut off... So that's a failed unit....? that sucks man... I saw this thread come back, and I was hoping everything was a go... LOL

It can handle 2-4S lipos and it is 120A. I was told to keep it at 2S though. Kind of strange, but I will use it in my TC3 with 3S to see how it will do.

This is from a different place. The HV ones will hopefully get done some time next year and I'm really :diablo: about it. This one is the 120A version and they have a 90A and a 60A, but the 60A will be sensorless only and the other 2 will be sensored or sensorless. I'm reading the e-mail now and it claims the 120A, 90A and 60A can handle 2-4S lipos, but I should only use 2S. I'll go 3S and see if the controller handles that. I assume it will auto detect the cells and the cutoff can be set with the program box. I don't want to say much until the controller is here, which will be tomorrow (maybe). What should I do to the UPS driver though :whistle:?

Tracked the package and it says, "12/17/2007 8:41 P.M. THE PACKAGE IS DELAYED DUE TO EMERGENCY CONDITIONS BEYOND UPS' CONTROL
12/17/2007 1:15 A.M. OUT FOR DELIVERY".

I guess the driver wanted to go home! :lol:

I finally got it. Here are the specs:

120A Continuous (720A burst)
0.0003ohm
39g (without wires)
Sensored/Sensoreless Brushless Motor and Brushed Motor
Brushless Motor with 2.5T and up
2-4 cell lipo Brushless/2 cell lipo Brushed
BEC 6V/2A
Fan
Low Voltage, Over-Heat, Signal Loss and Locked Rotor Protection
The Brake is Proportional ABS

Now the program box has the following:

1. Running Mode:
(1) Forward/Brake
(2) Forward/Brake/Reverse
2. Drag Brake Force:
(1) 0%
(2) 5%
(3) 10%
(4) 15%
(5) 20%
(6) 25%
(7) 30%
(8) 40%
3. Low Voltage Cut-Off:
(1) None
(2) 2.6V/Cell
(3) 2.8V/Cell
(4) 3.0V/Cell
(5) 3.2V/Cell
(6) 3.4V/Cell
4. Start Mode:
(1) Soft
(2) Normal
(3) Aggressive
(4) Very Aggressive
5. Brake Force:
(1) 25%
(2) 50%
(3) 75%
(4) 100%
6. Reverse Force:
(1) 25%
(2) 50%
(3) 75%
(4) 100%
7. Initial Brake Force:
(1) Drag Brake Force
(2) 0
(3) 20%
(4) 40%
8. Neutral Range:
(1) 6%
(2) 9%
(3) 12%
9. Timing:
(1) 0°
(2) 3.75°
(3) 7.5°
(4) 11.25°
(5) 15°
(6) 18.75°
(7) 22.5°
(8)26.25°
10. Motor Type:
(1) Brushless Motor
(2) Brushed Motor With Reverse
(3) Brushed Motor Forward/Brake Only
11. Over-Heat Protection:
(1) 95°C
(2) Disabled

All of it looks very impressive. The only problem I see is with the fan. It is rated for up to 7.2V and the slot to put the fan is connected directly to the battery, so you can only use 6 cell NiCD or 2 cell Lipo. I will add a connector to have it run from the 3rd channel. I will do the initial tests with 3 cell lipo in my TC3. I can't take pics now, because I have no clue where my camera is.

Features look great. I like the timing, Locked Rotor Protection and the overheat protection feature. When can I test one in my dragracing rustler..hehhehehe. I'm pushing/killing my mamba esc with 6s1p A123 at the moment.

Seems like they are kinda balking at the higher voltages. Come one 6S (or more!)

Sleeb

Let me see how this one handles in my TC3 and I'll even try it in the truck with the Neu 1521.

I originally asked for something that can handle 12S lipos, but they want to see if their is a market for this one first. They said they can make a HV controller, but I have to see one first before I can say anything about it.

When do you think they will be availible? i think my competition buggy needs something like that ^_^

I will contact the factory today to see if they how many they have ready, but I will have to spank this one a little to see if they will handle the abuse.

I think they're going to be disappointed if they think they're going to make any sort of major sales in the 2S - 4S category. I think that's pretty much locked up by castle, IMHO. Personally I think the opportunities start in the 5S and up category. The ones that are available for that voltage level are downright pricy. I'd love to run big cell counts, but I really don't feel like dropping $400 on an ESC, if ya know what I mean. Seeing the OEMRC sentilion 12S controller for under $100 gives me hope. Too bad it's not usable in cars (well, you can with mechanical brakes, but I don't have a rig with those).

The one you've got looks pretty cool. I love the external programming box, much better than dragging a darn laptop to the track.

I look forward to further developments!

I mentioned the same thing to them. I told them that a controller for car that can handle 12S lipos would be the right thing to try now, but they made this one. I will ask them to make a HV one and see what they say.

Just give 'em a link to RCM and show them how much demand there is for a reasonable priced HV unit, and how non-existant peoples options are. Anyway, that unit you have there has some very nice features, and its a step in the right direction at any rate...

I told them a few times to make an HV version. I will keep buggin' them to see if one can be made. I like the features and I will have to see if they are all working when I put it in my TC3.

I was able to run the ESC today for a little bit and it is very nice. I noticed the PCB is almost twice the thickness of the Mamba Max. It fits in my TC3 better then the Mamba Max. It is absolutly smoother and programming is a blast with the program box. The ESC got a little wet, but it did not affect the way it put the power down. The brakes are just awesome and smooth and reverse is also nice. I still can't find my camera to take pictures of this controller next to the Mamba Max. I like my Mamba Max a lot, but this new controller is much better and I'm not hyping it up. The Mamba Max off the line hesitates a bit with the N80 motor and this controller just goes.

Have you raised the startup power in the mamba esc with the N80(7800kv) motor?

Yes, the Mamba's starting power is at high. The hesitation that I'm talking about is really small and only happens when full throttle from a dead stop. Also, the other controller's heat sink after I was done speeding up and down the street for a few minutes was still cold with the fan disconnected.