I heard that in Canada you pay nothing or almost nothing.

Yea, Canada's medical system is free. But from what I hear, they pay taxes through the nose...

they pay taxes through every part of their body!:lol:

my dad has a freind that lives down their and ya taxes are very high.

o and btw

pmed you 2fast.

What a rollercoaster
 

Well I'm happy to inform all of you that I ended up getting to keep the savage. Basically my dad had a few words with my insurance company and he leveled my bills. I'm very thankful that he did this and I cannot express my appreciation enough for all of his help and support(now i'll have money to get him something good for christmas; he deserves it). So yeah, I finally got to drive it yesterday and it was amazing, simply awesome. It's the most fun I've ever had with an R/C car and I've had quite a few. This thing has so much power and handles like a dream, the suspension may be a little too plush but it makes for a good setup for just puttin' around. Besides for my pinion gear falling off within the first 10 minutes(due to no notch on the shaft) I had a blast, it wheelie's on demand and I actually ripped the front two tires off of the rim. I'm thinking that it needs thicker diff oil in the front diff to keep them from ballooning so much, any recomendatios? Sorry for the scare guys but it looks like I'm here to stay and I can continue my hobby for quite a while and also thanks for all of the kind words, you guys are awesome.

:party::yipi::mdr:

Cool, glad to hear that.

Sounds like your dad is a cool guy!

Have fun
Daf

if your front tires are ballooning too much you want a thicker center diff oil... i don't know whats in there now but go higher...

btw... what are your run times like?

Alright, "F" the insurance companies. Most of them tries to milk money out of us anyways. In my BPP truggy, I tried a center diff, but the power my truck is producing it wasn't helping with basically all the power unloading on the front tires. I installed the solid center in again and it is just much better. It handles better too. I can do wheelies again LOL.

What do you mean by a "solid center". And I'm getting near 30 mins of runtime, pretty impressive IMO. Also why would I thicken the center diff oil instead of the front? I'd like equal power to be dispersed to the front and rear, maybe a little more power in the front but not as much as it is currently, the fronts turn into frisbee's trying to grab the ground, its pretty funny to watch.

Ofna makes the following: 10230 DIFF. LOCK LUBE http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNXJ0&P=7. The solid center is also made by Ofna here is a link of the photo: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBZN2&P=SM

It lets you put the power equally to the front and rear. If you unload that much power on the front, your gears will be toast in no time, just like mine.

Would I be able to use that locker with my hotbodies center diff?

Yes.

OK I'm about to purchase some new wheels and tires since my front two are toast. What should I get? And can anyone explain offset for me, does a half inch offset wheel widen the width of my car a total of 1" or does it shorten it? Also I'm looking into getting 40series wheels, does this require a gearing change and is there a special CA glue that will keep my tires stuck to the wheels as I used medium dynamite brand on the last set that split. I'm looking at Maximizer beadlocks with a half inch offset and proline badlands as one option the other is Proline Wabash 23mm 40 series wheels with Big Joe's, masher's, or Moab's. Anyone had any experience with these 40 series tires if so please help. Thanks, -Steven

Maximizer beadlocks with a half inch offset and proline badlands, get them in black I have them and they look awesome, tape the insides and they wont balloon. The offset will widen it, both sets of wheels you listed will widen the truck.

The badlands rock. I did notice mine just starting to balloon today and my engine sucks (Mine aren't taped). That sounds awesome. I can't wait for mike to put the parts up in his store to do this conversion. No more problems like today, smashed fuel tank even though, how well are your batteries protected from shock tower flex? You don't really have to worry about it though having alloy towers.

Forgot to mention. That's great news to hear that you don't have to sell and even better that you got to run the truck.

Parents are great, especially when they are experienced with certain things- always turning to them for advice when I encounter something new that I have never had to deal with before like that. The truck sounds like its a blast- taping the wheels is a good idea, and I recommend normal loctite superglue; just dont get any where you dont want it = most evil substance known to man....

What kind of tape do I use on the inside of the tires? I wish proline offered the ribs or radials on all of their tires, especially for high powered apps., not just for their racing tire line. I'm not sure about the shock tower flex, I dont think its much of a problem as everything fits very well and is tight, I'm a fairly good driver and I kinda stay away from dangerous obstacles, so the batteries are pretty safe and well protected, even if they do somehow get punctured I dont have to worry about it exploding like normal Li-po's & Li-Ions as from what I saw on the apogee website they can have a drillbit drilled through them and barely even smoke and not be volatile at all. He was actually holding the pack right after he drilled through it, its pretty amazing. And yeah Neil I'm very greatful to have my parents help me out especially in situations like this, my Dad is a very good negotiator and 95% of the time gets things his way. One more thing, if I do get 40 series tires are they less susceptable to ballooning?

I use clear duct tape, I turn the tire inside out, wash it and put 1 wrap of tape around it with about 3/4 inch overlap at the end, then I turn it right side out. 40 series baloon a lot too.

Fiberglass reinforced tape works good too. I have racing tires on my BPP truggy and they balloon like any other tires. Companies have to design tires with brushless power in mind now LOL. I also like to tape my foam inserts. I use a sand paper to sand the part of the tire and wheel for better adhesion. I use thick CA to hold everything together and let it dry overnight.

CA = Cyona-acryrilate AKA loctite, it sticks everything to everything, so use sparingly....

I have found that simple tire CA (glue) doesn't hold that good, for me. When I decided to try "thick" CA, it made a big difference.

The pros vent there tires & there is very little balloning of the tire if any balloning at all. The tape can acctually hurt the tires performance especially when racing . The most popular method of doing this is to use a leather hole puncher. some use 2 vent holes in the tire & some use 4 holes in the tire. A added benifit of doing this is it lets any dirt or water in side the tire get out, which helps the tire stay more balanced . Some even plug the holes in the rim to help keep the dirt out.

Cool thanks for the advice y'all. I just ordered the Maximizer 1/2" offset black beadlock wheels and proline masher tires, they look like a good combo with aggressive tread pattern. I dont understand how punching holes in the tire will keep ballooning to a minimal and wouldn't it even possibly cause it to tear in high HP applications? On the bright side I dont have to use CA glue anymore since I've now got beadlocks :D

Proline and maximizer both suggest venting the tires. I used a leather punch and they haven't torn yet. I haven't been driving with them long though.

Thanks Tim, how are those lst shocks working for you on your savage? I'm thinking of ordering some for mine as its pretty heavy and I dont see the stock shocks lasting all that long.

Got a quick question, if the LVC is set correctly on my ESC what should it do when I reach that voltage? Cut off completely or just lose power all of a sudden?

It'll dump like nitro runs out of gas.

That's a good question. I know on my mini-t it doesn't just stop. It will stop if I gas it hard but then it will keep going if I just give it a little bit I stop when I notice that happens. With something bigger I assume it would just stop or is it meant to be like that all the time.

And the LST shocks seem to work well. They are mounted with an Innovative-rc shock mounting kit which is very nice. Once again they haven't been on the truck long enough to give a full report but so far so good. My only issues with them are that with the shocks being mounted slightly out from the plastic towers they bend the towers in slightly so my body holes don't line up like they used to. Also I think they helped make this happen http://lh6.google.com.au/MTBikerTim/...0/IMG_0614.JPG
It's nice they are adjustable too. I stiffen them up for jumps (to get that extra height and soften them for normal racing around. The aluminium bars destroyed the back of my body really quickly though.

basically, how it works is this. When the voltage gets to that point, it will stop. Obviously, when you don't keep on the gas, let it go, wait a minute, it will go again, but only a short period until the voltage drop hits again. Like I said....like when nitro runs out of gas.

Some controllers allow you to set up a slow cutoff. Which will slow down your vehicle before the cutoff is reached. Hard cutoff will basically shut the controller down.

I think I have seen LVC devices that sound an alarm when you hit the cut-off voltage. Can you imagine what you happen happen if the esc shut down on a plane or ducted fan jet mid-flight, or an MT whilst it was running in the street and a 1:1 came along?....

OK just makin' sure I was hitting the LVC and not over discharging the packs. When I ran it after about 30 mins it all of a sudden lost power, like it would barely move, I didn't run it after this happened as I assumed the LVC kicked in but I wasn't completely sure if Mike had set everything up when he installed the equipment. Though I did check the battery stats on my charger and the 3s showed a voltage of 9volts and my 2s showed 6volts so I'm assuming the voltage cutoff was right at 3.0v/cell, which to me sounds about right. After reading through my Quark manual 3.0v/cell is the highest voltage it allows the cutoff to be at. Does this sound ok?

Yeah, that sounds ok. Unfortunately, the Quark only allows 3v cutoff max, and I like something more like 3.1-3.2v/cell. How long are you waiting after running the pack before you get those voltage readings? The pack voltage should drift back up to ~3.4v+ after sitting unloaded for a while. If not, maybe you're pushing the batts a little too much either by too-tall gearing or using packs that really aren't up to the task...

I'm only waiting a few hours when I get those readings. When the LVC kicked in the motor was red hot, ESC and batteries were barely warm. I know nothing about gearing so I'm pretty much up a creek right now if my gearing is wrong. Though I should mention I was running in medium heigth grass the whole time, goosing the throttle constantly

Wow, they are only 3v/cell after a few hours? Usually they drift back up after ~20 minutes. But, they aren't warm so it doesn't sound like they are being overworked.

Hehe I hope not, if they're not up to the task I'm kinda out of luck as they fit perfectly in my truck. And they were kind of warm I didn't have a temp guage on me ATM so I couldn't tell you exactly how warm. What's considered overworked warm in li-mn(po-ion) standards?

140 is max for the li/mn, but I never see mine over 120, even pushing them hard.

The truck looks sweet dude..!! Great Job...

thakyou sir

Well, I got my wheels and tires in friday, mounted them last night and went to drive it this morning, needless to say I'm pretty pissed off right now, my pinion gear keeps on falling off because there's no flat spot on the motor shaft, I'm guessing I got a lucky motor that didn't have one as I assume all Neu's have that flat spot. Can anyone help?

Edit: Oh yeah, and the pinion is gone.. lost forever and I've no idea what tooth count or size it is.. After spending this much money I'm kind of disappointed that I havent even gotten to run it for a full charget yet.

You have to put the flat spot on the motor see this thread and dont forget threadlock http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...ight=flat+spot