Won't he need to use an AC voltmeter setting, and won't it give an RMS voltage out instead of the required DC input for the given speed? I can't find any info on how a 3 phase would be tested for kv.

H-Bridge is built-in into FET's

PM sent

You are talking of the ESC right? I'm confused now :lol:

Hey sikes sorry if you answered this but what was the final out come of your motor selection (I get dumb founded by the tech talk LOl)? I would like to attempt (direct to diffs) this with the maxx im building.

Have your test motor attached to ESC and Voltmeter to battery connector, leave battery unplugged. Spin motor shaft and record peak voltmeter readings.
Do not forget about RPM, you need to know motor speed to calculate Kv value.

I got to run the Revo some more today. 4S is sweet! :yes:

So I put it on 5S, considerably faster.

Then I put it on 6S. It runs great on this. A real power house with a rooster tail of gravel and dirt following it where ever it goes.

During the 6S run, I noticed I only had front wheel drive! :surprised:

I was thinking "Oh NO!" What could this be?

Turns out I stripped a hex on one of the rear wheels. Good sign of power. :yes:

Sweet, sounds like a great setup. Maybe I need to bribe you to wind me a motor like that:wink:

I just put a set of the NEW E maxx wheels and Tires on this Revo.

Remember I said I thought one of the diffs was popping under acceleration? Well as it turns out, with the new wheels and the steel hexes, that sound is gone!! :yipi:

What I must have been hearing was the wheel hex skip a notch while it was on it's way out.

Yeah, I just "blew" the brand new diff out of my 5s emaxx. Turned out to be a hex that is now a circle! Cheap quick fix! The wheel nut was loose so that must have been the problem.

The new E maxx wheels nuts have the teflon ring for self locking, but they also have a grip surface where it contacts the rim. This should work better.

The old nuts kept backing off, so now I'm putting Blue Loctite on the axle threads before I put the wheel on. If this doesn't work, I'll use the Green Loctite. There's alot of pressure on these.

I noticed there's about .5mm of play between the hex and the bearing race. Do you ever shim your wheels to take all the play out?

I'm thinking about it.

I usually just run them as is, but if they are really loose, I put a teflon washer between the inside bearing and the drive yoke. The tmaxx hexes have a small raised area that contacts with the inner part of the bearing. That will usually sandwich up tight when the wheel nut is tightened.

Traxxas does make wheel shims. Traxxas part #3982 is a pack of 10 shims that are 6mm x 8mm x .5mm Perfect! No more wheel side to side play. :yes:

I got the Revo setup on my New Firepower 20C 5000mah 6S!

Took it out for a test spin. It Rocks! All this time I was playing around with 10C Lipo's. These 20C packs really hold the voltage up there. MUCH more punch!

From a 15mph punch, it will flip over backwards and start doing cartwheels. LOL

Here's what the new setup looks like. 6S, CC BEC, and a Novak 2700uf Cap. The Quark works GREAT on this. Thanks Linc. :yes:

I'll get a vid soon.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSC06810.jpg

Will you charge and balance those as a 6s pack? Do you use velcro to hold them down?

Some advice, You should get some electric goo to cover up the bare wires between the caps. You will loose alot of resistance in that.