Yes my arms are shimmed and everything else also to get rid of as much slop as possible. I used the same cups after inspecting them thoroughly. So I get your point there that it might have been part of the problem. This time, absolutely all the diff parts will be new. If this solves the problem, it will be a good example that cutting corners to save some money isn't always beneficial. The diffs will be reassembled with stock LST XXL parts.

I'm still waiting for the internal diff gears but yesterday I received the 5 mm Lunsford titanium steering turnbuckles I also ordered. I was still using the stock ones and they were often bending. Now instead of bending the turnbuckles, I'll probably break the steering uprights :mdr: The ball ends had to be drilled to 4.2 mm in order to be able to screw them on those massive turnbuckles.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...rnbuckles1.jpg

I received the diff internal gears yesterday, this morning I finished reassembling the truck and it's ready to go again for this weekend.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...e_lst_xxl3.jpg

I made a new front skid that houses the Muggy steering bellcrank. I shortened the bellcrank an extra 2.5 mm in order to use a single front skid instead of a doubler one like I had before.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ront_skid3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ront_skid4.jpg

I have been beating the snot out of my LST for the last two days and other than a snapped steering upright (knuckle), everything is running great on 6S. After going over everything, I think the most important change I made is to the ESC's punch control. It was still at the default setting of 0%. It is now at 80%. Thanks for all your input.

Good. I think 80 might be somewhat extreme, but your on the right track.

Sweet! I wonder if it was a lemon. (Fluke) None the Less Good to hear. But Were You also running those truggy wheels or the Stockers?

I ran the stockers, then Proline 40 series Mashers, then Truggy wheels just like the ones in the pics above. The Mashers had one wheels with the hex rounded off, at some point I thought this might be part of the problem. But the rear diff had problems again running the Truggy wheels. I'm starting to be convinced that my rear diff problem was as simple as setting the punch control more conservatively. One more thing that is different, before I was running with the LST diff gears that didn't come with shims for the planetary gears. The sets of gears I ordered from ebay have shims for the planetary gears. That's what I'm running now in both front and rear diffs.

JT, I agree 80% is a lot but for the first outing after the rebuild, I wanted to have a big difference in this setting to really notice if it would change anything. It seems it did so now I can lower the setting 5% at a time until I blow a rear diff again. Repair the diff and bring the punch control 10% more then when it blew the diff and it should be set for good.

And finally, Lincpimp was right when he said the Hot Bodies hardened diff gears don't fit. The sun gears are too thick. Anybody need them? :mdr:

Good to hear you might finally find the problem with those diffs.

I love the clean results you always seem to get when fabricating a part, so (as many others have asked before me) could you show us your craftmanship in a video?
Just like how you showed us how you made the CF part with your router.

For example the skidplate, how did you make that?

I basically made it the same way I do with carbon fiber, but it did require more manual work with files to finish it. I used a hacksaw to cut the piece as close as possible to the final dimensions, leaving only about 1/16'' all around the edge. I used a stock LST XXL skid plate as a template to drill the holes then I used those holes to sandwich the piece I want to make to the LST XXL skid plate and used the router table to finish the cut around the piece just like I did in the video with carbon fiber. I would go along 1/4 to 1/2 inch along the outer edge at a time, then I sprayed some WD40 for lubrication and did another 1/4 inch and again with WD40. Without lubrication, the aluminum and bit heat up and the bit will gum up with aluminum. When that happens, you gotta stop and pick at the bit's nook and crannies with something to get the alu out or else it doesn't cut. It's slow and a bit messy, oily :mdr: The last part where the Muggy steering is secured to I finished up with needle node files by hand.

mistercrash your build is awesome, I have a LST XXL roller coming pretty soon and your fabrication is inspiring. I'm soaking up as much info as I can. Thanks.

Is there a way,or a conversion for the steering to ditch one servo and just have a single torquey sob? Also, how often does THE DUDE get mounts in? I havent checked today so maybe they'll be available:whip:.

As far as I know, the TDR mounts are a bit behind. He posted on another forum that his machine was down and it needed to be fixed.

EDIT: He just posted that the mounts will be in stock next wednesday.

To fit a single servo, ditch the saver and use a servo with metal gears. Use a solid servo arm and a short turnbuckle with captured ends. I'm running a Hitec 7950TH without any problems.

-JB

It seems that my diff problems are gone. I am down to 70% on the ESC's punch control. But now I have a new problem and it's bumming me out. We were out playing for about 18 minutes when I had to go turn over my son's ERBE that was on its lid. When I got back to my LST, I hit the throttle and this loud sound came from it, like some terrible cogging. The truck didn't move much, I let off the throttle right away and noticed a small puff of smoke coming from the truck. I ran over to it, ripped off the body, disconnected the batteries.

The ESC looked fine and so did the lipos. I got close to snif around and the burnt smell came from the motor. Looks like I may have fried my Neu 1521 1Y. :cry:

It's the first time I fry anything, I'm not sure of what I should do. It looks like there's little grub screws around the edge of the can but I don't have anything that fits it. Not that I could do anything if I could open the motor but I would've liked to see inside if I can detect what burned. I took a pic of the end bell and some burnt wires can be seen in one of the holes, but I don't know if that is the damage or just from the soldering when manufactured. This was bought at Offshore Electrics and I can't find my proof of purchase..

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._1521_1y_1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._1521_1y_2.jpg

Regardless where you bought it, NEU is going to service it.
They will take care of you also, great customer service. You just have to be patient.
Dumb question, the screws your using to hold the motor to the mount aren't to long are they ?

Not a stupid question at all, they are the right length, I tripled checked that when I was building the truck. I wish I could find my proof of purchase, I bought it back in mid March but I can't prove it. I'll contact Neu on Monday and hope for the best. In the meantime, it's back to the E-Revo to have some fun.

Funny how I built this LST because it is tough and I keep going back to the ''fragile'' ERBE because the LST is broken. :mdr: