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Yes there is Velcro in there. :yes: |
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Bare Wires? Where's a Bare Wire? :surprised: LOL |
You know you loose a lot of resistance with bare wire. I hear that if you have enough exposed wire, you can have a superconductor!
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Sike, Do you run the Novak cap on the battery/esc wires? What exactly does it do to help?
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You hook it up as close to the esc as possible, located on the battery wires. It helps to reduce esc operating temps by at least 10-15*, and also helps to absorb voltage spikes from the esc > batteries. It can also help to smooth out power delivery from the batteries, by providing a steady current from the caps so that the batteries arent overdrawn during heavy load situations. or something along those lines; all I know is I added an extra novak cap to my hvmaxx and it helps smooth things out no-end, especially towards the end of the run when the batteries drop-off.
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Hey Sike, glad that the quark is working out for you.
Are the diffs holding up better for you with the better bearings? The teflon washers are the ones I use to shim up the axles, usually one does the job! About the bare wire thing, you guys are joking right? I can't see the rubber coating lowering the resistance, maybe I am missing something? |
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The Diffs held up great through the first run, and ummmmm well.........15 minutes into this run, the rear pinion bearings went out. The gears sounded like they were munching on balls. I'm not sure what to do at this point. The 10/43 gears won't and don't hold up to this kind of power. The spiral cut loads the pinion bearing like a thrust bearing. Even the Ceramic Nitride bearings can't take it. I might go with the 13/43 straight cut gears and try again. They will tend to side load the bearing instead of loading it like the spiral cut gears are doing. This custom Wye Wind starts better and makes more torque, so I think I still have a shot at it even with the 3.3:1 ratio. Somebody show me a Diff that can stand it and I can make the power to shove through it. LOL |
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Very good description Neil! :yes: |
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Sounds like it is time for a needle rooler bearing, not sure if you could find one that is the correct length to replace both of the stock bearings. You would need to have the diff cases machined to remove the two raised portinos that hold the std bearings in place. I vaugely remember that a needle bearing will hold up better than a ball bearing will, in a situation where there is alot of side loading. Sounds like the races are just getting hammered and falling apart. I have a feeling that the hpi baja diff will be able to handle your outrunner, but it may not fit in the revo very well! |
A Needle Type Thrust bearing would be ideal! Problem is, I don't think anyone makes them in this size.
I just charged the Batteries back up. 15 minutes of running like this on 6S used 2182mah according to my MRC Superbrain 989. This setup would run HARD for over 30 minutes before it hit the cutout. Dang Dang. What to do? LOL I'll have to check that diff out Linc. What kind of diffs do those 1/5th scale Firehammer's have in them? |
Check this out! :yes:
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Awesome! That motor just tosses the rig around! You got lucky many times on the rollover, almost 90% recovery rate back to the tires!
Who else wants to see sike take those dirt piles like a set of doubles? |
Power!!!!
The raw power of that thing is absolutely awsome. Can you imagine a race with like 10 or 15 vehicles with that same amount of power all barreling around the race track together:lol:? That was pretty cool Sikes. Thanks for sharing that with all of us. I hope that you can find the right Diffs to handle that thing. Overall it seemed to run very well, so we know that you had it hooked up pretty well. Great job:intello:.
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Very Nice!!!!
Traxxas really needs to come out with a wheely bar for the revo, something like the setup for the maxx trucks. Looks like your custom wind works very well. Good luck with the diffs, maybe somebody makes a really heavy duty bearing? |
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