Hey guys,

i got my cvd back tonight. My mate turned down a 12.9 hardened steel bolt on the lathe to fit perfectly. For some reason the 3mm pin i had didn't fit, it was too small, i think it ended up being like 3.1mm or 3.2mm i needed, makes a big difference. I also got done trimming the F-150 body to fit the truck. Hopefully the temps stay cool with that on, but i think im going to have to cut a hole in the windscreen evenutally. Taking it out for a run tomorrow, hopefully the batteries perform a little better on their second charge.

replacement pin

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00176.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00177.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00178.jpg

Oh, and notice anyting missing on the truck? :whistle:

cheers
jordan

I see what's missing!!:party: its the.... N10ah...:whistle:

Don't know if I gave it away or if I just shouldve said it:lol:

Ah, true, but i always tuck that under the body, its something(s) a little bigger... :whistle:

(It took me a little while to figure that one out :lol:)

Is it the front bumper?

+1 :yes:

I replied to your post in the traxxas forum regarding the pin. I had used 1/8" through-hardened ejector pin left over after making my hinge pins. 1/8" = 3.175mm.

You got it BL_RV0, the front and rear skid are gone. Replaced them with alum skids that i chopped flush with the bulks, probably wont leave them on permanently, but just trying to save some weight for the next run.

@Lito, I'll keep that in mind next time, they would have fit perfectly, saved me a whole lot of waiting time :whip:

P.S, got an update from MGM on my controller last night, its all fixed, new battery leads and new heatshrink and ready to be EMS'd out to me tomorrow. Hopefully here before Christmas, but even i think that is a little too optimistic :lol:

Great to hear that MGM fixed all you issues with the controller. So, what was wrong with it?

Just user error :oops: I cut the battery wires too short and the heatshrink was a little melted/peeling away on the outside. So i just got both of those replaced. I didnt want to void my warrenty by removing the heatshrink so i just sent it back. Only cost about $20AU to fix, so im pretty happy.

I just got in from a run then, and something a little puzzling happened. It was WAY quicker this time, i think the batteries were performing better, and it handled better with the thicker diff oil. It would easily pop wheelies on the tarmac. the temps were:

Batts: 80-90F
Motor: 100-130F
ESC: 100-130F

The fan came on a couple of times, but after a minute or so it would go off.

Heres the weird thing, the front cover on the motor came off. It must have been rattled loose or something. I think the internals are ok because i stopped running straight away when it slowed down and made a crunching sound. Im just going to loctite it back and keep running it. It must not have been properly secured at the factory or something. My motor mount is real solid, the fron part was still really tight. Should i keep running it, or contact Neu and see what they say?

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00180.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00184.jpg

cheers
jordan

Since it's not a cheap motor, IMO it would be wise to contact NEU and get their opinion.

I agree. Call Neu and let them know what happened.

Me To.
 

Me to man. Considering what these things cost, and the fact that it fell apart I would be calling them right away before you even try to run it again. The thing is this. If you contact them, and get their approval to run it, then it is on them. If you run it again and run into a problem it becomes your fault for not contacting them straight away:rules:. So do the smart thing and shoot them an email or give them a call either way your covered. Just my opinon from experience.:yes:

I'd agree.

Im gonna take a wild guess and say the lack of rear support (the strap stops the motor flexing upwards, but not downwards) is the main problem- that motor is huge and long, so some form of rear brace is really needed, along with a better secured front end...

I do like to state the obvious :yes:

You need to make a rear motor support or some kind of system that will hold the front and rear of the motor together like the rc-monster heat sink does. That motor is just too heavy and the load the front of it has to cope with is just too much.

Edit: The following picture is from http://www.bomb-proofproducts.com/home.htm as an example of a clamping system.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSCF0050.jpg