So, basically on the back of the motor is written less than what motor is rally capable, wich is nice to hear. :yipi:

Patrick, sent you a PM. Going to call tech support in a few when they are done with lunch :-)

Not for anything but isn't it a good idea to not open up ESCs when they fail under warranty so that CC engineers can do a proper analysis?

Rabosi, the case fell off when it burnt up. I think it's only held together with thermal adhesive which gets real soft at a bizillion degrees :-)

You mentioned peeling back a plastic cover so I thought you were digging a little deeper. I wasn't trying to be critical though. Just a thought that it may be advantageous for troubleshooting purposes for the user to not open up the dead unit while under warranty. I have seen several cases where the ESCs were opened up after failure especially when the MMM first came out.

Well, I talked with Greg in the tech department. Generally a nice guy and was realy interested in how exactly I pulled off fitting the XL in a hyper 7 :-) and after clearing that up I probed about if there was anything else to look at on the buggy side, basically nothing (and even less) than what we've already covered here...

So I'll pack it up tonight and get it sent out to Castle for evaluation. Should be interesting to see what they come up with.

Well unfortunately I'm having issues with my Mamba XL now too. It won't arm. :/ Have to troubleshoot it tomorrow when I have time.. hopefully it's just a solder joint. Curse you DrKnow! You jinxed us all! :oh:

Btw, 8s + CC XL combo + Baja = Too fast for it's own good. :party:

Mine should get to Castle Saturday/Monday so we can find out what went wrong after a week or so... I'm hoping

Cody, not arming was the first "odd" thing my XL did, you may just want to sent it in as well
if you don't see any really obvious solder joint, radio problem, bad servo, bad connector, ect.
Mine did arm again after cycling the power, but it only went 20 feet plus 2 more before it was in flames.

I've went over my rig with a fine tooth comb and haven't found any issues.
I'm going to double check the resistance in my 1518 at work today,
forgot to bring home my meter trying to get my XL shipped out last night.

P.s. sorry for the jinx, I was actually hoping I was just unlucky
but having another person that's having issues really concerns me.
Please consider sending it in, or at least benching it until we have an answer on mine,
it could be that yours is in the first stage of whatever lead to the death of mine.

Hmm, well I think I will take it out of the car and troubleshoot it from there so if anything does go wrong it won't start a fire. Hopefully it just got shook up and isn't dead, I don't want this to turn into another MMM V1 :neutral:
I'll keep you guys posted, have to wait till later today to test it out.

Just checked my tracking info, XL should be at Castle Monday before 4:30pm.

Edit: Kinda bummed they didn't offer to ship me a replacement right away :cry:

Got my XL, 2028 Motor & Castle Baja Conversion Kit all hooked up and calibrated...Two brand new Hyperion G3 35-65c 5500mah 4s Lipos to equal 8s. Ready to go...just need some snow to melt... Spoke with Castle Tech and the told me how to set the Torque limiter setting. Should be good to go!

Cody, any word on your bench testing?

Working on finishing my install tonight, had to make a couple of mods to the mount to support things but it's looking good.

As suggested earlier in the thread I'm pressing forward with 6.5mm bullets for the batteries. I'm not as comfortable using bullets as hosed connectors due to the risk of a short so I wanted to ask those that use them what recommendations, if any they have? I'm obviously going to shrink wrap the bullets themselves but wanted to see if anyone had other pointers.

Lots of guys are putting male and female on the batteries/ ESC's, but I much prefer to have females on all the supply side (I.e. Battery wires and ESC output wires) and males on all the the work side (I.e. Motor and Esc power wires). This eliminates the possibility of a short but you have to use a jumper to put packs in series and you have to match color for color to keep polarity correct.

I like using my batts for multiple rc's so I prefer to have a single standard.

Castle uses all males on their motors, and all females at the Esc outputs...

i'm interested in this esc, but it concerns me about the use of the 8g wire.

I don't know very much about the fundamentals of electronics, so maybe someone could explain it to me.

if the XL is using 8g wire, does the rest of the equipment need it? and if not, why not? isn't the system only as effecient as the smallest awg wire used?