I wasn't saying to copy his design. I was actually saying it as a compliment more than anything.

Very nice Mistercrash

And I thank you :smile: But if I were to make chassis' like the one I have, it would be copying Kershaw's design.

I got a call from the hobby shop this morning, my bodies are in. They are both trimmed and I really like the way they fit. These Proline Ford F650 bodies are wide and long. I use extended rear arms on both ERBEs and the wheel wells almost align with the wheels. If I were to run the stock rear arms, the wheel wells would align perfectly with the wheels. In the pics, the body posts are at their lowest setting and I like how it looks. The body is so long that it almost fits over the stock bumpers so I removed them. I want something I can fabricate that will fit inside the front grill and the rear bumper of the body to give it some support in case of impact with a tree or something.
One shell will be metallic red and the other will be metallic blue. I will try this Alclad chrome for Lexan for the first time. I'll use it for the front and rear bumpers, the front grill and the rear tool box. The truck beds will be black and I want to have the windshield trim black. And I have some silver to back everything up. I hate to paint bodies but these two have to be as perfect as I can make them.
Here's a few pics of one of the unpainted bodies on my son's GERBE.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ord_f650_1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ord_f650_2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ord_f650_3.jpg

My Dad absolutely loves the Bug body on your son's E-Revo, and wants one for his E-Revo, he just has to come up with a paint-scheme for it so I can paint it.

Anyway, you got it looking great, MC!

I am an idiot
 

Well not always but sometimes, the things I do are just plain stupid. I wanted to give this ESC waterproofing thing a try so I started coating the ESC board with this liquid electrical tape stuff. I was going well but once it dryed, it was not stuck that well on the board and I was thinking that if it gets unstuck a little bit along the heat sink for example, then there would be a place for water to get in and it would get trapped in there and never dry off. Plus I was not convinced that it was that water tight, especially behind the caps where it is a very tight spot and I couldn't positively verify that the stuff got in there to seal the whole board properly. So I ripped the whole thing off the board and started thinking of what else I could try. I had this tube of white silicon for outdoor windows and doors. I put a small tip on it to squeeze silicon in tight spots and started working on sealing the board. I thought white is great because I could really see where the silicon was going and really check that it was finding its way everywhere. It went well and once I was done, it looked like the board was completely sealed. Then I glanced at the tube and saw:

LATEX WATER BASED :surprised:

I couldn't believe what I just did. I just coated everything with a water based paste :oops: So I thought to just let it dry and once the water is out then it'll be fine. Three days later, the thing is still not dry. I decided to clean this stuff off the board but how? I did something radical. I let the board soak in warm soapy water for 9/10 hours and that dissolved the latex based silicon and I was able to clean the residue with an old tooth brush. I got everything off, the board was really clean. Too clean! That protective coating from the factory was off also. So after cleaning everything to like new condition, drying it with compressed air and letting sit on a furnace register for two days, I plugged the board back on the truck with a couple Turnigys and flicked the switch on. The ESC was working like nothing happened :yipi:

But I wanted to get a protective coating back on the board so Tremclad Urethane Clear Coat to the rescue. I used this stuff on many surfaces and it sticks to just about anything, dries quickly and is really though once dried. I gave the board three coats. I actually think that it is practically waterproof now but I'm too scared to dip the ESC in water to test it. :mdr:

I am not going to try it, I don't want to come here again and write another lengthy post explaining how much of an idiot I am again :sarcastic:
Water ''resistant'' is enough for me.

I thought I'd try this clear coat stuff on my steering servo. It is supposed to be water proof but it has proven other wise in the past so I gave the servo three thick coats of this stuff. I plan on running my ERBE in the snow again tomorrow and I will see if water will stay out of this servo from now on.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...aterproof1.jpg

I also got a shower cap to try out. I read about this trick to keep water off the electronics. I was disappointed that there were no pink ones with pretty flowers. The results are not that encouraging. Although it kept most of the snow, slush and water off the center of the truck where the ESC, motor and tranny are, it did let in some moisture. So I would say that this does help making the truck water resistant but not waterproof. But I did run through very slushy stuff and through deep puddles. Also, the cap didn't last very long, it got ripped in a couple places.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...hower_cap1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...hower_cap3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...hower_cap2.jpg

I wrapped my Turnigys in urathane gloves. I cut the tip of the index and ran the wires through it and zip tied both ends of the glove as tight as I could. Surprisingly, water got inside. Is it water or just condensation from the heat of the battery with snow stuck right outside the glove? From the amount of water, I would say it just got in.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...hower_cap4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...hower_cap5.jpg

One last thing about the shower cap, although it is only 30 degrees outside, the motor and ESC were much warmer then when I run without the cap. A thirty degree difference.

I also broke my Baja bug body :cry:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...e10_damage.jpg

I took my New E-Revo out yesterday and it was full of snow and no problems to report.Allthough I only drove it for 1 minute.I did soak mine with WD40 prior to running.I have 2 2S turnegy 5200 40c hardpack lipos.These batteries are awesome for the price

Well phatmonk mentioned the word Turnigy so I ordered a couple more Turnigys :lol:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...C_LiFePo4_Pack

I can't wait to try those out. I suspect they will be awesome like the 2S2P I got a few weeks ago for my son's GERBE.

Disappointing to hear about the waterproofing not being all that effective, though partially effective is better than nothing I suppose.

Next time, I will get some large party balloons for the lipos and I will put some vaseline where the wires stick out of the balloons. I think that will work. As for the shower cap, I won't use one and will truly test the effectiveness of the polyurethane coating I put on the ESC's circuit boards and the servo. I hope I don't fry anything and that no one from CC is reading this :lol:

Looks like Dan from kershaw Design reads my thread :lol:

Here's a new description of his chassis. Still the same picture but a different description.

''- Now with receiver box mouting tabs, improved tolerances and clearance, stiffer chassis braces and all for $10 less!
- Only 0.5 oz heavier than the stock plastic E-Revo chassis and worlds stiffer.''

I paid $10 too much :sarcastic:

Nothing like being a beta tester :lol:

If I'm a beta tester then I'm doin' it wrong 'cause I don't get free stuff to test. :whistle:

Speaking of the Kershaw chassis, I should give an update regarding the total weight of the ''revised Kershaw'' chassis I am using. You know with the new carbon fiber chassis braces I made and the thicker carbon fiber bottom plate I made.

So here goes with the weights of the stock ERBE chassis, the Kershaw chassis and the modified kershaw chassis. That would be the truck with no wheels, body or batteries in it.

Stock:
weight at the front: 1599 grams
weight at the rear: 1714 grams
total weight: 3313 grams

Kershaw Design:
weight at the front: 1629 grams
weight at the rear: 1714 grams
total weight: 3343 grams
30 grams heavier than stock

Modified Kershaw Design:
weight at the front: 1653 grams
weight at the rear: 1741.5 grams
total weight: 3394.5 grams
81.5 grams heavier than stock. Very well worth the extra weight for the added stiffness, durability, more battery choices and it looks cool.

So what exactly is Kershaw saying?Will the 2.2 version be machined properly no crooked countersinking etc....