One tip I have for putting the shrink tubing on the female bullets is to leave the shrink a little longer, then when you heat it up to shrink it, the tubing curls over the end of the bullet slightly. You can still plug & unplug the male into the female with no problems at all, but it means that if the 2 bullets on the battery should touch, there is no way the metal can actually make contact to create a short circuit. The best analogy I have for this is a bit grim though; think: foreskin... :whistle:

8 gauge wire supports the maximum amperage the XL will handle, amperage not wattage. The wire you NEED to use has to support the amperage of the system. For example if you use 2000 watts at 29.6v that's 67.5 amps, if you use 2000 watts at 14.8v that's 135 amps. The wire you need for 135 amps is twice the size vs. 67.5 amps...

So the question is what amperage will your specific setup see, and what gauge wire do you need to support that amperage. The beauty of the XL is data logging, it will tell you the amps your pulling :-) From there it's easy :-)

You should be comforted though that most decent batts have large enough wires to match the amperage they can put out. So if the batts can handle the amps for your setup so can their wires.

Hi, no I haven't yet sorry, I should be able to find some time tomorrow or Sunday though.

quick ?
 

What would happen if I use Deans Ultra Plugs on the ESC and Batteries? I know that they are VERY difficult to solder with Deans, but I'm pretty good at soldering. I've heard that it's okay to use Deans & I've also heard that you can't. Please help!!!....:slap:

I've been using deans and I've had no problems with em, never have.

thanks for the explanation, that makes alot of sense. :yes:

I've received the XL just yesterday and soon some photos on Mamba XL Savage setup...

Now just a silly question: why the XL has not a switch on/off button ?

Without switch is not so easy to calibrate the ESC (turn transmitter on; hold at full throttle and then connect the ESC to battery - quite easy if You have three hands...)

Bye, Andrea.

Thanks Cody!:great:

Andrea, the XL has no switch, and yes it's a bit of a task to calibrate it.
I can point out that you are able to lengthen the "beep time" in the settings though :-)
That way you have a moment to pick up the controller after you've plugged in the batts.
For me, I kinda miss having the LED's :oops:

>DEANS< my setup pulled a maximum amperage spike of 113 amps, at least for my setup deans would hold up to it without issue.
Check the connectors for heat, if they're cool your likley OK.

I'd like to see some data from one of the guys running the big XL combo motor in a full blown 4X4 1/5's scale though to see what kind of wattage/amperage they are putting down :whistle:

The Deans Ultra plug is rated for 60A continuous and 75A burst, with the data logging you will be able to get a good idea of whats going on and if bullets are needed or not.

Wow, I didn't realize the rating was that low.

What is the mounting screw spacing and size on the 2028 motor?

4mm on 30mm diam - Mike has a 30mm to 45mm adapater

U can shorten the wire with male bullets for like 2cm or so. The risk will be a lot smaller.

Thanks for all of the pointers on how to lessen risk with bullets, it confirmed a couple of ideas I had. In the end I went all female on the batteries. I made my first run on 8S today and it drives just as quick as my Neu 1515 MMM powered E-Revo. I can't believe how fast it jumps around, even with all of the aluminum I have on the truck, if anything it's keeping the front end down some so maybe it's better that way.

What a great kit, compliments to Castle and the strong engineering talent it took to bring this to market.

I want to specifically thank Christy at Castle, she went above and beyond to get the kit out to me last week, my hat is off to her.