The output gear I have is form rc4wd- they stopped making them just after I got mine, so no idea on the quality of the metal, but its aluminum at any rate- If I found some proper Ultramaxxed gears for sale... I doubt I would buy them anyway because they are so expensive, lol.

Tranny is lubed every half a dozen sessions or so- there was still a fair amount on the gears when I dismantled it, so its not wear caused by lack of lube or what-not.

The stock gears didnt work well for me at all, the teeth either sheered off or just ground down very quicky- delrin of softer plastic might last a bit longer (self lubing plastic...), but I doubt muchlonger; they are actually hard to find in the UK, very few places have many parts for the old emaxx tranny, or if they do they arent actually very cheap- too much hassle swapping it out half way through a run.

What I really need to do is build a CD unit something like the Candyman has, unless Mike starts cranking them out shortly.

As for lighter wheels and tires, I has a suprize in store.... :mdr:

Other than the big tires its hard to believe your truck is making more power or heavier than mine and so far the plastic gear work fine for me. I do have a strobe slipper with sprong though maybe it slips a little better. I have read that boiling the gears makes them not as brittle but who knows? as far a a cd "dont hold your horses as the saying goes" If it become a problem I will adapt a 3905 tranny in my g-maxx. I just got one for my g-4 maxx build and I really like the layout and how the motors position over the center.

You know what, I think you are right about not being able to coat aluminum with titanium-nitride.

Yea, the GenIII Ultramaxx gears were actually part OTB, which is why they were so bad-ass and so expensive. For some reason, the special bronze and aluminum gears can be run against each other with no problems, which is why the OTB gear-sets were so successful! Aluminum against aluminum is bad news, and acts like sandpaper rubbing against skin...nothing lasts. Even aluminum against steel wears very quickly, as Neil found out.

Anyway, if you can't find the Ultramaxx GenIII set, your best best is to run the stock steel input gear, UE/RCM/RRP steel idler gear, and the stock nylon output gear. With proper slipper settings, that transmission setup will last a long time.

I almost bought a NIP Ultramaxx GenIII gear-set not too long ago, for just $175 shipped, but at the time I didn't need it and had no clue how much it was worth.

Hey guys I had sent gmaxx an email and asked a couple of weeks ago when will they have the g4 available and they sent me an email yesterday and said they are in stock so get them while there in stock I purchased my G4 and ready for my build and back to rcmonster now: where do I get the motor mount? I looked on RCM but couldnt find it.

gorillamaxx makes ans sells the mount also. Buy it from them and save on shipping.

I see most guys have the xbraces between the chassis where do i buy those makes the chassis more stable ??????????

Motor mount? Gorillamaxx only sells the motor mounting plate for the 3906 tranny, you have to use either the stock 3905 item or the FLM version on the 3905 tranny.

Noob! :lol:

G3 chassis = X-braces.
G4 = new design, uses posts and molded upper plate instead of x-braces.

I believe the the braces are probably stiffer and much better with the amount of weight exerted in the center, strange they dont include it for 184dollars

Arent the metal posts going to bend at the ridiculous speed i plan on going and then my luck probably a small crash LOL

Ok Suicide I joined before you I just Dropped out ok I am back to a NOOB lol

Thanks NEIL Im going to have to read more LOL

Yep, after 3 year absense you go back down to noob level :mdr:

As you can see though the G3 and G4 are two completely different designs of chassis, you cant swap parts over between the two.
Take the time to read my thread, you will quickly see that the old X-brace design doesnt hold up well to impacts at any kind of speed- cant speak for the new G4 design, but I believe it may actually be stonger and less prone to damage- easier and cheaper to fix if it does bend.

Very funny River but I think this NOOB will make it work with the 1521 and my quark 125 just have to get hip to what that called LIPO lol ouch am i behind

ok hey thats a nice build I have picks under my name but havent figured out how to insert the pics thats another story< go ahead pick on me but my build will be just as nice