Cool, thanks for the info! If they have those discs on, then hopefully soldering wouldn't be a problem as you say. I have a 50W temp-controlled iron, so that might be just about up to it. I'd like a decen,t long runtime with this machine so 1P is out of the question, but 6S2P might work. I've been eyeing up the Elite 4800 25C LiPos, which apparently perform nicely. A 6S pack would be tall, but I could lay it on its side in a custom-sized tray which would also prevent the bottom cell from having to deal with the weight of all the others in a landing.

Sorry guys, I know, I'm indecisive...both cells have good points! I'll probably go LiPo on this occasion like I say, but the A123 info is very helpful still. :smile:

Whats_Nitro: Right, I got it now! A DDOR setup won't work on the Havoc without re-designing most of the truck, as it's just a 3-gear lateral transmission; nowhere near as easy to install a DDOR as it is in a normal, 4WD truck. But thanks for the idea nevertheless!

H'okay! Time for a bit of an update. I finally found the time to finish CAD'ing-up the parts for the motor mount :yipi: . The design's deliberately very simple in order to keep costs down and beefiness up, but should do the job:

Base plate:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...avocmount1.jpg

Motor plate:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...avocmount2.jpg

The base plate will be 5mm aluminium, and will bolt onto the Havoc chassis using pre-existing holes; the four engine mount holes, and then two others that I think are for if you install the fairly pointless upgrade chassis brace. It's so big because I wanted to make sure that the chassis was braced like it is in stock form, which is why it mounts over where the engine would be. These holes will be threaded, to keep things clean and tidy. This also gives a solid base for the motor to work from. The plate is actually upside down in this pic, showing the four countersunk M4 holes where the motor plate screws will pass through. The countersinks allow the plate to sit flush against the chassis when the screws are in.

The motor plate itself is 6mm aluminium, and simply screws onto the base plate via the four M4 screws. Since the Castle Neu 1515 motor is 75mm long, there *might* be slight fitment issues with the rollbar mount the other side of the chassis...so I'll have to see on that. It'll be a close call. Might just have to move/fettle the rollbar, if it comes to it.

I'm getting these parts made by a CNC machinist over here in the UK, and they should be done by the weekend. Now I just have to wait for the CastleNeu motor to be released, and for the MMM V3...

Thanks for looking.:wink:

Wow, that looks really nice. It will be a fantastic car. :yes:

I also often thought about A123 Cells but i stayed at my lipos because my soldering skills are not the best and the cells are heavy in comparison to lipos.
I think if you are protecting your lipos with a tray, they should be 100% bashproof. :yipi:

Thanks man! I do hope so. :smile:

The motor mount parts should be with me tomorrow (the machinist who did the parts is quick!), so I'll put up more pics when I get a chance.

Cool! :yipi:

come on man you gotta "take it off some sweet jumps"

Hehehe, I'll certainly be doing that when it's finished.:party:

Anyways, yesterday I received the motor mount parts from my machinist (he's fast... www.fulloption.co.uk), and...wow. the quality is amazing. I've taken photos, but unfortunately the light is bad today and they really don't show how nicely finished these parts are. Extremely crisp machining, and done extremely accurately. Even the screw threads are all perfect; no swarf or anything. One side of each part is the milled side, with the milling marks (still looks nice), and the other side is natural aluminium:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/IMGP0269.jpg

I didn't waste any time, and started fitting them as soon as I could. The base plate fits well with the stock engine screws and M4 screws threading through...though they stick out a little on the other side. Unfortunately the M4 screws that I was going to fit the motor plate with are a shade too long for the threads, so I'll have to order some shorter ones. I've just placed the motor plate for show in these pics:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/IMGP0278.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/IMGP0277.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/IMGP0272.jpg

I'll take some better pics sometime, as these really suck! The next step is to sort out a battery and tray setup, though being able to sell my TNX 5.2R would put some funds towards this (hint!). :biggrin: O0

Looking good. This one is definitely in the home stretch and it will be cool to hear some reports of performance.

Looks great DT, if it were me I would just take the hacksaw to those bolts :tongue: Would you be able to message me as to how much they charge for smaller jobs? As I may end up using them for a part or 2 in the near future.

Thatnks guys! I would dremel the screws down, but it turns out I don't have enough anyway. Superbasher, it depends completely on what you want done...so you're best off contacting him yourself really. The address is www.fulloption.co.uk, and his email should be on there somewhere. :)

I think I've actually found a pack that will finally fit, though I can' really post it on here as it's not available on RC-M. It's a 4000mah 6S2P 25-35C pack, that's built in such a way that it'll fit in the square space on the chassis perfectly (I'd go for a higher rated pack if there were any that fitted without overhanging the chassis). I know that it's on the border of what's required for the 1515 1Y, but the Havoc is RWD...thus taking away some motor strain. Any thoughts would be welcome, though... :neutral:

I would say that 5s would be the max you will want to run on the 1y. 2wd will help with the load on the motor/batt. I would go with the 5s version of that pack.

Thanks for the help, Linc. Problem is that - would you believe it - there's isn't a 5S version available (no point in beating about the bush, it's a HobbyCity Rhino pack). Only 4S and 6S, and 4S isn't enough for this particular truck. I'm just a tad concerned about amp draw, having never run a 1515 1Y before. I guess I'll just buy the pack and see how it performs.

Wow theres another guy on earth who owns a havoc? hahahahhah mines still stock and nitro and not driven very much. They arent very useful offroad they just spin like a top with all that power. But i am interested in your build, just dont make it too uncontrollable

Lol I know, you don't come by many owners!

I don't know, though...I have an experienced friend in RC, and his Havoc has always been very controllable, and handled well offroad (though obviously it's still easy to spin out on a loose surface if you just slam the throttle). This is gonna be a stupid amount of power, but I don't see it being too much of a problem as long as I'm careful with the trigger. If it's too difficult, I might install a heading-hold gyro to help things out.

Thanks for the interest, it's much appreciated. :smile:

I think I've finally decided on a battery, though...and it's not the hit-and-miss Rhino pack I was on about. Elite have just released their new 35C 5000mah cells (I know, 35C is a VERY high rating, but reports suggest they perform darned well), and they're only 130mm long. Perfect with a custom-sized RC-M tray.:yipi:

heck yea looking good should be a hella tough truck, and custom try by mike will be the ticket, heck i already drew you a picture lol

btw you need some imex ribbdawg front tires for that thing.