Plettenbergs, can you post a listing of who is on the master list? I just want to be sure I am on there. Thanks!!

-JB

I have wanted this chassis since you first posted. I like how it went from "hey guys I need this part" too hey guys You need this part". I had already decided on something else for "christmas" but if the price isnt too scary I will have too get one instead. I may have skimmed over the listing but can you pm me a price? Thanks man and good luck, glad you decided too spread the joy.

And might I say, the price is VERY nice!

Any updated shots in CAD, or the actual chassis coming soon?

:yes:anxiously waiting:whistle:

patience grass-hoppa!
 

The more i bug him the slower he works!
I gave the CNC guy $1500 cash last week to to make his pocket happy!...will be using the 64-70 tooth RR slipper gear and pads but will have to make custom pressure plates to fit the 8mm DirectDrive shaft!....THEY ARE COMING!!!!

Revised prototype should be here very soon,after i ok it he will run the other 15 chassis!....the machines will be set-up already and he will just press RUN on the giant HAAS CNC machine!!!....that baby will spit them out very quickly!!!

DOES ANYONE HAVE 1 OLD R/C MONSTER BATTERY TRAY(for Zippy packs) THEY CAN SEND ME?...I AM ADDING SMALL SLITS IN THE CARBON FIBER BASE TO ALLOW VELCRO STRAPPS OR A BATT TRAY TO BE MOUNTED?...I NEED TO MATCH THE HOLE SPACING!...IF NOT I WILL IMPROVISE!

thank you, sensai! Now heres the dilemna: do I use this chassis to replace my fastlane, or build ANOTHER maxx? I better just start a new build!:lol:

I SAY!!!...sell the FLiM chassis and emaxx trani....buy UE parts!!!

****NEED BATTERY TRAY OR HOLE SPACING****

just look up a small machine shop in your area. That piece is about an hours work on a manual mill (knee mill). Guessing you'll ge charged about 50-60 bucks. I'm a machinist and we generally go $60/hour for manual machines and $80/hour for cnc. One thing to keep the cost down if you did go to a shop is don't make them reverse engineer everything... make your own drawing. Grab your calipers, take measurements, and make a simple 3rd angle projection dwg (meaning draw it from all the sides so you can dimension everything that you need to) and take that to the shop and say just use some 2024 or 7075 alum laying around. If you're not going to get it plated use 6061 b/c it resists corrosion the best and all he other parts on your truck don't appear to be anodized, powdercoated, gold alodine (which would look sweet!) but 6061 doesn't cut or finish as pretty and its gummy and soft. Trust me, for the last 4 years about 80% of my work on turning and milling have been aluminum. If anyone needs advice on alum and how they hold up, plate, resist, cut, properties, let me know. Also, use some socket head cap screws instead. They don't need to sit flush it appears and that way you could get an allen wrench on those suckers alot easier than a screwdriver.. at least thats the way it looks. Man this got long.. just felt like dropping some machine knowledge!

emaxx tranny? It's a custom RCM center diff! What do you need for battrey tray, I don't understand?

i am considering adding some small slits in the lower carbon fiber deck so i can velcro in a batt tray...no big deal,i mounted 2 5s Zippys with no problems to my prototype!...velcro on the bottom of the batts and a strap to the upper deck!http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/DSC01398.jpg

This almost make me wish I still had an e-maxx. Very nice truck!

That's not an E-Maxx :lol:. Except for the body posts :rofl:. It does look great though!

it uses Emaxx parts!http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/DSC01361.jpg

this is all Emaxx!(but no Traxxass parts)http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_4396.jpg
Dual BigMAXXimums!http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_4398.jpg

check it out!
 

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/DSC01357.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/DSC01358.jpg

Sweet.