very good thing to do.....drill some hole in the windsheild:whip:

so when is the release date for the motor only???

Lol.

Airflow is an r/c enthusiasts best friend- whether its airscoops or holes in the body, or a fan on the motor/esc (dont tell Brian), airflow is the key to reducing temps, so put your whip away and you might learn something :wink:

Awesome, that's great to hear that the holes in the windshield will yield a noticeable reduction in temps, that is the next thing i will do when i run again and post my results as well... as pdelcast said airflow is key!

e-fanatic looks like were were getting around the same temps and now they are working to our favor with more runs and some testing :party:

I'm just happy my temps are down! I just wanted to let you all know the temps were from my set up and now have it fixed! I have no issue telling anyone if its my own fault! I do think I might go to a 62 or 65 spur when on the dunes just to be careful!

I'm still running the 7XL with no problems. I know you like to refer to this motor as the spinning toaster of death, but when summer came around I added the novak heatsink and some fans. Never let the can get over 170 degrees and it runs as strong as the first day I put it in. Now that winters here a little airflow over the heatsink and its good to go. I have more than gotton my monies worth out of this motor and still the only way I can describe it is crazy fast. Oh BTW, MMM V3 is still running strong. OH YA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Are the esc's water tight? ONly suky part of putting holes in teh body lets more bad stuff in to lol.

The ESC are "Water Resistant" as they have a coating around the circuit board but im sure its highly recommended not to run it where any kind of water can get to it

I received my combo today and the Neu/Castle motor has play in rotor shaft/output shaft, about 1mm.I dont have this play in any of my Genuine Neu motors.If that pinion on the motor moves forward into my E-Slayers slipper clutch thats bad.Like I said my 1515/1y has no movement in the rotor shaft.

all my brushless motors from castle, hacker, lehner, and feigao have had a little play. A few 5mm shims would sure it up if you really need.

That's right, most motors due have some play between the rotor and bearings. A lot of times brushed motors have play as well, and for them a tighter tolerance is more critical (commutator + brushes).

You can always add shims to prevent this.

So take off the frontplate and put the shims where?Between the front bearing?

I would put them between the magnet and the spacer. So the brass spacer is still against the bearing(in sure they put that size of a spacer in there for a reason) It probably doesnt matter but thats me just thinking out loud.

Just though I would add my gearing and temps to the review for others to see.

Outside temperature= 55*
Motor= never over 110*
Neu 4s batteries= never over 75*
MMM= not sure, but the fan never turned on.
Gearing in E-Revo= 19p 56spur

That was in shorter runs lasting no more then 15 min at a time on the road since it was raining off and on today. Power seemed great! A lot of torque on demand. I can't wait to get a run in with dry weather... someday.

Tomorrow, weather permitting, I am going to try 19p 54spur and see if there is much of a difference in speed.

-Brett

are these motors better on 6s a123 than the bidproducts motors?
will these increase my runtime?

http://www.bidproduct.com/part/Produ...MOTOR_184.html

will this motor have more power than the bidproduct?
i see i can get 2200k/v only, is this not to much for 6s a123?