I prefer just cutting a head of a ziptie off, and just zipping it into the original ziptie, with the fuel tubing.
The fuel tubing doesn't come off. :yipi:

You're lucky, my LHS is waaaay behind the times, I teach them brushless!

that was you looking in my window!

same here...some still tell me theyre tmaxx will woop my emaxx anyday

I'm on a first name basis with everyone at my LHS! Of course I'm only 10 minutes away so I'm there all the time! I have tought them some stuff there but when I have a problem they are more than willing to help. Lately they've been offering me help with helicopters and encouraging me, esspecially with my CP. I race on their carpet track almost every week. Best thing about a lhs is getting parts! If I was to break an A-arm on my Revo I can have a new one on and be running again within 1/2 hour! It def pays to make friends with them! They often give me deals just because I'm there all the time

Well, my lhs know a little about brushless... They stock em. They have a few quark esc's and flightpower lipos. Nothing 8th scale though. I showed my owner the outruner for my crt .5 and he was impressed. It sounds like he knows something about the power of brushless... I will say he doesn't tell me anything I already don't know about bl.:tongue:

Paralized, I like hoppin over to your house and peekin a bit. You know, it really makes the day more exciting. I just wont tell anyone about that... "time"....:lol:

off topic, but I was actually going to go to minneapolis tomorrow, but I just blew some money tonight on a movie, so I don't think I'll go.:angel:

For a tip: Although RTR on the traxxas website may be defined as ready to race, they've been bullcrappin ya. RTR means ready to run, no matter what.:rules:

I'm in between SD and minny apples, if it happens in the future lemme know

To shine up your shell and remove some of the "small" scratches. Use furnitiure polish like Lemon Pledge. Just wax on wax off. It takes out some of the small scratches and shines it up a bit. Until the shell reaches the no return stage and nothings gonna help it then. Works pretty well on the platic windows for you Jeeps soft top too.


Bring backs memories of pushing around the Kirby Vacum and polishing all the furniture on Satuarday mornings during Scooby Doo. Mom loved to have her wood furniture to shine. Our Sat mourning chores. So if the place smelled like Lemon Pledge and there were Kirby tracks in the carpet when she got home from work on Satuarday. Us five boys were free to terrorize the neighborhood. If nothing gotten broke during the choas of doing the chores that is. I know Shaun and a few others remember the old Kirby.

I remember the old kirby,,,

When soldering a most connecters onto batterys, put the shrink on the wires before you solder anything. And on top of all, don't let the wires touch.

Adapter to connect 3.5 bullet to a 5.5mm bullet or vice verca
 

I bypassed the short piece of wire that I use to use betweem such connectors. I just soldered two connectors together to fit what I could use them for.

Adapter(s) for your bulllet connectors for those times you don't have the right bullet connectos handy.


http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...connectors.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...letgrinded.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...rsonamotor.jpg

Protect lipo balance connectors
 

If running lipos, you can get dirt/debris in your balance connectors. To prevent that from happening, I just take an extra male connector, remove the wires and maybe pins, and hot-glue the any openings. So, before I go out, I just snap one of these over the balance plug on the pack and it keeps it clean.

A picture of a Hyperion on the left and some other type (don't remember which) on the right.

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/ba...protectors.jpg

You can't see it, but both have hotglue in the back where the wires originally were.

The one on the left has all the pins removed since the casing has the latching mechanism.

The smaller one on the right has just a couple pins removed just so it's not so hard to put on/take off, yet stays on firmly. Should be snug enough to stay on during running, but not so bad that it takes a Kung-Fu grip to remove it. I also wrapped heatshrink around it to help seal various other openings, and also filled the back with hotglue to give me something for my fat fingers to grip.

1.) thread lock on all metal to metal
2.) i believe someone said this about wd-40 but i use this dry-film lubricant stuff that dries on almost clear but it lubes/protects/and lasts for a long time.... RZ-50....it works and it's not as smelly as wd-40 and it only takes 10 seconds to dry....highly recommend using it no matter where you're running... www.rz-50.com.....
3.)the "soak your bald tires in acetone for 2-days to save your wheels" method has always worked for me...highly recommend as well
4.)so such thing as too many spare screws....keep as many as you can...you never know what you'll need them for
5.)always use the proper hex (standard/metric) its a bitch if the hex gets stripped..
6.)always solder one battery lead at a time....leave the other end shrink wrapped untl your done with the first.
7.) any other tip i have i got from you guys here!!!! so before you start a new thread about a problem...research, research,research!!! this site is awesome!

i found this out today actually... if you need to unpress a press fitted pinion, say if you are modding the hell out of a radioshack brand RC, and wanna swap motors, all you need to do is 1. put motor in a vice or something similar to hold it tight. 2. take the claw end of a hammer, put it against the pinion, and snap really fast. if the pinion comes off, you're done! but if you're like me, and slipped the shaft right out of the motor, just clamp the shaft down and repeat. it should come off rather effortlessly.

The one time I had to remove a pressed pinion, I just clamped the pinion in a vice (I was throwing it away anyway) so the motor is dangling and then used some kind of pin and hammered the shaft. This takes the stress off the shaft and/or bearings.

Ok, here is the super pimp method of removing stubborn pan or cap head screws that may have stripped out. Take your dremel or small flat file (prefered over the dremel by me as it is more controlable) and put a flat on either side of the screw head. Then clamp this with you bench vise (if you do not have one consider it a well spent 30-40 bucks) and rotate the object that the screw is stuck in. I have had to do this with screws in tranny components and other small items that are difficult to hold, and vise grips are just not sturdy enough to hold properly.

More pimpy methods of getting out of a pickle coming soon...

Shock holder I found at a thrift store for .99 cents. I think it double as a ice tray too.
I've seen them at other stores also.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...hockholder.jpg