Agreed. Things are never considered "too strong", just the stronger the better. 4X4mm screws will be bullet proof strong, at least it looks that way.

Well I finally got around to painting a couple of bodies. I am not very good at painting so I stuck to some simple designs. The reason I have two bodies is because I was so excited to see the "E" bodies back in stock I ordered one without remembering I had one on back order as well.

Also, I added some 3M HD dual Loc velcro to the bottom of the tray and added some padding. All of my batteries (except the Losi hardcase) have Dual Loc on them. The the Losi tray is really long, which is good for adjusting weight bias. But, it is bad for short batteries because they tend to slide forward. With the velcro and straps the batteries stay where you put them.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC01218.jpg
Hard to see but there is dual loc velcro on the bottom of the tray.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05392.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05406.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05412.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05416.jpg

Dude - that green, white, orange body is awesome!! Nice work! What color is that green?

looks good

Sower, I have been using Faskolor paints recently and the green color I used for that body is #40301 Pearl Key Lime backed with silver. Because Parma makes so many colors and they can look different once you spray them on the body and back them with another color, I made a paint guide out of some scrap polycarb I had. I sprayed small patches of my main colors and labeled them with the Faskolor #, some of them are very similar so the guide is really useful for picking the right color. Also I backed the guide with white and black so I could see how those colors looked with light/dark backing.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05428.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05429.jpg

Thanks, now I just hope it doesn't rain so I can get out to the track this weekend.

Thanks for the paint info - too bad I don't have an airbrush!

I got my plastic spur today so I was able to change out the steel gear on my smart diff. I Installed the diff (center) and took it out for a spin (street). It definetly feels like it hooks up better, driving on the street is actually a good test because there is so much more traction. Off power turn in was great. The brakes felt good and seemed to stop like they did with the stock diff. Below are some pictures of the inside of the diff, the smart diff inner parts will not fit in the standard diff case. Also a slight issue using the plastic spur, it is a bit wider than the steel spur, and at first there was some binding with the motor mount. After a few runs up and down the street it freed up and felt fine. I hope it stays dry this weekend so I can get some track time in.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05431.jpg
Losi Smart Diff and plastic spur gears.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05434.jpg
Inside the Smart diff.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05442.jpg
Plastic spur is a bit wider, some of this extra width is on the motor mount side and binds slightly, until the high spots wear off.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...3/DSC05449.jpg
You can see how close the plastic spur comes to the motor mount.

Can you compare the quality of the plastic of the Losi spur vs. the kyosho spur? I was hoping the losi spur would be further away from the motor mount than the kyosho spur sits, but it appears it does not.

Does Losi have 48T or 49T plastic spurs? My Tekno Losi 8-T's motor mount is too far away from center diff to allow spur smaller than 48T.
Plastic spur must be much quieter than steel, makes the truggy feel even more "electric". I love that style.

SpEEdyBL, I have run the Kyosho Plastic spurs on my first conversions so I can compare how they wear compared to the Losi spur. It's rained the last several weekend so I have not been able to get out to the track. Just running it up and down the street for now. I will let you know how it holds up. The two piece design is kind of cool, will save you a little time and less mess when swaping spurs.

himalaya, because they had to swap the diff around on the chassis and there is no cutout on the chassis in the new position the largest spur you can run with the Losi conversion is 45T. Losi currently makes three plastic spurs 45, 44 and 43 teeth. You can use thicker spacers to raise the diff for more clearence or you can cut a hole in the chassis, but that has it's own problems, higher CG, more angle on the driveshafts, weaker chassis (with another cutout), etc. I am running the 45T spur and a 13T pinion it is very fast, has good acceleration, and is running cool so far (a few street runs only).

One thing to keep in mind for those thinking about the Losi Smart Diff, I am running it in the center but I ordered a front diff. The reason is if you order a center Smart diff you get a 48T sput that can't be used in the 8ight-E. With the Losi Smart front diff I removed the ring gear (which can be used in the front as a spare) and replaced it with the Losi plastic 45T spur. The only difference is you won't have the brake flats on the outdrives but I don't care because I am running motor brake.

Great thread, can't wait to hear how it all performs at the track.

One more thing regarding the Smart diff, the diff case is different from the standard Losi diff case, so the Smart diff internals won't fit. But the optional Losi HD diff case looks like a match. I ordered a HD diff case and should have it soon, I will try and fit the Smart diff internals in the HD case and confirm if it fits or not. If so you can save about half on the smart diff by just ordering the internal Smart diff parts and the HD diff case.