Motor mount & battery trays on the chassis

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1247126816

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1247126816

Will shorten the wireing as much as possible once I figure out where to put the ESC.

Turns out that my rear diff was ok.

One of the rear dogbones had a tendency to get stuck in the axle cup (in lack of better words). A bit of grease added and now it runs like a dream :)

Im wondering if there is a good low budget steering servo out there? The one that came with my chassis can hardly move the wheels when the truck isn't moving... and its slow.

Conversion is starting to take shape. Have you thought about mounting the ESC above the tranny? Just make a plate and you're done. As far as a cheap steering servo goes, the hitec HS-5645MG is great. Good specs and about $50 USD.

I have... but then I would have to increase the length of the wires between ESC & motor. But I guess your right :yes:

I had started to bend an alu mount for it. Was thinking to put it on top of the motor. But it will sit less protected up there and it will be annoying to fiddle with the motor if it sits up there.

If it becomes too nose heavy I can move the battery trays a bit backwards.

Epoxying the hex nuts didn't work btw... so now Im running with a pair of XL tyre/rims with the 17mm hex. Looks good so far. And bigger wheels = I can run in taller grass :lol:

Will see if I can get ½ an hour to mount the ESC properly and take a picture or two of the current state of the truck.

Cheers!

Wire length increased and now it runs in rewerse when I pull the throttle?

Is there any logical explanation to this - other than I have swapped two wires? :whistle:

Had a look at my steering servo. Its a Hitec HS-645MG. Would the digital version of this servo (that you mentioned) be able to turn the wheels when the truck stands still or is movement of the truck simply a requirement with this size of RC-car?

You swapped two wires during the process. About the extended motor wires- longer motor wires are not as big of a deal as longer battery wires, although it is best to have the shortest wires possible. The 5645MG is much stronger than the 645MG, you should be happy with it.

The 5645 will not be much of an upgrade over the 645. If you want to have very strong steering, a good hi torque digital is a must. I like the jr 9100t, solid, powerful and quiet...

The 5645 is fine in my 12lb truggy...

Remind me... whats lb? 12lb doesnt make sense to me... Im a metric kinda guy.

Had a minor problem with one of the Turnigy batteries. On of the tracks on the PCB where all the wires are soldered simply burned over:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1247826273

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1247826273

Fixed it with some fat wire and solder... but slightly annoyed. I want to buy great quality at low cost damn it!!!:rofl:

I covered the solder pads which I didn't need to work on with insulation tape. Shorts in a LiPo is bad I hear! Just a little security tip if anyone reads this and has to do similar repair work.

Time for a few more questions :)

Must say that this truck is tough! Been doing some really silly jumps with poor landings. High speed turns that went wrong - resulting in some serious tumling action. Backflips with poor landings. High speed wheelies... with subsequent crashes. AND IT STILL LIVES!!

However... it seems that a standard Savage with XL tyres and the big hobbywing system is build to crash. The turning radius is somewhat huge and it flips over if im not really carefull during high speed turns. Also it wheelies/backflips like mad.

So... I have been looking at the XL solution for making the wheelbase wider. What are you guys experience with that? It seems to me that the bearings will be seriously punished in that setup - unless the wheels are perfectly balanced. Would that be an option to make the turning more stable?

Ive also been looking at that FLM conversion chassis. Looks sweet... but will it help my truck handle better? EDIT: Ive been looking but cant seem to find the ansver: What is the maximum battery dimensions in that chassis?

One of the other guys have a brushless revo en route... so to prevent him from going in circles around me I really need to enhance the driveablity of this thing... raw power and silly stunts wont cut it anymore ;)

For faster/better turning you can also consider some offset rims (e-Bay). Got two sets of eBay for a 'steal'.

I also know there's a steering MOD for the Savage, but don't know how this will affect the 'bashability' (aka will it make it weaker?).

As for the ext. FLM TVP, where are they? I mailed FLM about it because I can't find them on their site. I'm sure the ext low COG FLM TVP's would help a lot.

Right here:http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...Fsavage&cat=31

maybe you also need a stronger steering servo or need to tighten the servo saver. my turning radius got gradually wider and wider to the point where it wouldn't steer at all. turns out, the little spring retainer for the servo saver had worked it's way loose. i was getting ready to trash the servo for nothing. i'm glad i didn't.

edit: also, can you post some pics of your standard length savage with xl tires. i'm thinking about getting some tires about the same size as the terrapins and i want to see just how huge they look on a normal length savage.

Servo saver tightened... its slightly out of shape after a crash and seems to allow more slippage now. Thank you for the imput :)

Pictures inc...

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1253026128

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1253026128

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1253026128

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1253026128

last one...

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1253026405

Looks pretty ok to me... but of course the increased wheel diameter will also lift the CoG :whistle:

Anyone with imput on FLM chassis vs standard in terms of manouverability?