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I'm not a dodge expert, but I believe you can tune that injection system a bit (chip, programmer?) to compensate for the headers, cam, and rockers you'd need to get about 300hp at the crank. If you want more like 400hp, I'd swap in a 360 with aftermarket heads, and troll the dodge forums for what you'd have to do with the fuel injection system to support that power ie injectors, tuning etc. The easy way out would be to just swap to a carb, but there are drawbacks there too with emissions, possibly mileage, etc.
Personally I'd go in stages. headers shouldn't require any tuning and will give a noticable 15+hp increase alone and possibly better mileage. Supposedly roller rockers add another 10+hp on those engines. A mild cam that won't kill low end torque or mileage on top of these parts = 20+hp. Tuning the injection system for all these bolt ons should be another 10-20hp and shouldn't be needed until you do the cam swap. |
'04 nissan 350z roadster... touring package (fully adjustable heated leather seats and heated mirrors, 240 watt 7 speaker Bose sound system, etc.). not much done to it yet, but i've got big plans for her. so far i added tints, a plenum/throttle spacer, popcharger (CAI kit), and race pipes. soon will be a dual catback exhaust, a new ECU reflash from technosquare, wheels and tires, and possibly some custom paint. down the road i'd like to add a bolt-on supercharger. :yes:
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my talon hero john shepard is pushing 1300hp and running the 1/4 in 7.7sec at 190mph with full interior :lol: here is a link to a vid of his car http://dsmvideo.vidiac.com/category/...fd0052736c.htm |
Daily Driver:
'97 Mazda Protege LX. 1.5L DOHC I-4, 5 spd, K&N filter, KYB GR-2 struts, performance radiator (not needed, but the stock one leaked and this was cheap), Bosch cap, rotor, and wires, NGK Iridium IX plugs, and 40+ MPG in the summer. These are old pics, but the best i have. I ditched those hideous hub caps and got some Ford Escort wheels for it, looks much better now. http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...95-Retouch.jpg http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...96-Retouch.jpg http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...98-Retouch.jpg Fun Car/Toy: '02 Ford Mustang GT. 4.6L SOHC V-8, 5 speed, Steeda short-throw shifter w/ Bullitt shift handle, boot, and ring, Steeda adjustable timing pulley, K&N CAI, C&L 80mm MAF, Magnaflow catback (stock manifolds, cats, H-pipe, etc.), Steeda UDP kit (put Ford pulley back on the alternator, Steeda pulley was causing alternator problems), Mach 1 chin spoiler, Bullitt pedals. Stock suspension but it rides and handles a ton better than the Mazda :oh: These are the AutoTrader pics, don't have any good ones of my own yet. The side windows are tinted at 25%, the rear at 35%, and it has SpeedHui white-faced gauges now. http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...lied_Spy/1.jpg http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ied_Spy/10.jpg http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ied_Spy/13.jpg http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ied_Spy/15.jpg And the incredible noise it makes: http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...aflowCBack.jpg I need to get a better exhaust vid, that was taken cold and I didn't want to rev the piss out of a cold engine. EDIT: The question that's really got me right now is: Do I want a Barrett M95 or should I pull the engine (still under 100k miles, just) and have it completely rebuilt and tricked out. The Barrett is about $4,000 and with that much money I could get 500HP or so :neutral: |
Nice rigs you guys.
Jeff I swear I saw that photo of the LR in a magazine somewhere. That's cool, looks like it would be an advertisement if it has the advertisement. Magman I know just how you feel! I was ready to poke fun at you Sullie for not having any photos of your stang. Then I found that I don't have but a handful of mine These are the best pics I found. The receeding hairline in the car is a friend. Pretty much stock 65 mustang, 289, AT, MS, MB, MW, MS, ML It manual everything except for hte Cruise-O-Matic transmission. Even the wiper fluid is manually pumped from a windex bottle from behind my seat. No rust to speak of. Cowl leaks a little common problem but not easy to fix. A friend rebuilt the motor for me last year. I tackeled a carb rebuild a month ago. I had myself talking into it being hard but wasn't bad and made a big improvement. Some of you that have noticed my "A Horse's Ass" avitar will recognize last winters picture. I wasn't saying I was a Horses As. The picture is of A horse's ass.. http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...ember20086.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...g/DSCF5321.jpg http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...g/DSCF5323.jpg |
If my pic was used in a magazine, I should be getting royalty checks sometime soon!
That 'stang of yours is gonna be worth some serious money - I love those stock ones. (I love the windex bottle washers!) |
The STi has a nice trick up its sleeve with the DCCD...
http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/P3090019.jpg http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/P3090017.jpg The little thumb wheel adjusts the torque & you see the current setting displayed between the fuel & temp gauges...here's a borrowed explanation - I'm being lazy... "The driver makes adjustments to torque distribution in the manual mode via the console-mounted control wheel or entrusts distribution decisions to the DCCD control module through the automatic mode, the ratio of front/rear torque distribution can vary from 35 percent front/65 percent rear to 50 percent front/50 percent rear. In automatic mode, DCCD varies torque according to input indicating acceleration, deceleration, cornering force and wheel slippage. In manual mode, the driver selects from six stages of center-differential lock-up. The more lock-up, the greater the torque directed to the front wheels – up to the 50 percent front/50 percent rear ratio. Mechanical limited-slip front and rear differentials enhance the system’s effectiveness" |
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(raises his hand)
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"Stupid People Shouldn't Breed " |
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