It's OK that you ask all those questions, I did the same not too long ago, and if anybody is bored by the same questions over and over again, nobody is forced to answer them :wink:
Yes you would need the drive cups as they are for the center drive shafts.
The adapters for the driveshafts are included in the hybrid bulkhead set, so you can use stock traxxas driveshafts with your truck, which I recommend you do.
They are cheap, can deal with BL-power and can absorb shocks to the drivetrain better then steel or aluminium driveshafts which helps the diffs.

As for the arms I would take RPM or Flextek arms, RPM because they are cheap and can take a beating and Flextek because they are expensive and can take more beating:lol:
I wouldn't take aluminium arms though as in my opinion they are too stiff.
And get RPM axle carriers or stock ones, for the same reason.

Take the gorillamaxx chassis allready! Why? Because you can't decide and I like the G-maxx better:intello:

UE is Unlimited Engineering but nothing to think about any longer as they don't really produce anything anylonger.

As for the non-tranny-build: look at my thread and you'll see.
You'll need a centerdiff mount but with a mounting plate for the G4-chassis. But you have to ask Mike if he builds one for you.

Answers: I would go with rpm arms with trutrac in the rear. Get flm chassis if your just going to bash, get a g4-maxx if your going to race if both you need to decide on your own both are good chassis. Traxxas cvd's will work with 1/8 scale diffs but you might have to figure out different deeper output cups if they are not long enough. UE is Unlimited Engineering http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store the best parts money can buy but alittle pricey and alot of stuff is not being made anymore. Better off buying used on the bst forum. UE cvd are the best but wont work with current later model knuckles.

thanks guys. i really really appreciate all your tips and help.

this is a bashtruck som i will go for the FLM chassi. i had i g-revo befor and i love the car. but i think its fun to try somethingels.

my thought was to use MIP center and traxxas stock(plastic) cvd. if i buy two HB lightning diff, how many output cups do i need? JoFreak said something about an adapter, but i dont get that.

i will mail Mike now and ask him about all the out of stock parts.

those are the adapters I talked about: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...ffshaft&cat=40
But as I said, they are included in the hybrid bulkhead kit so you don't need an extra set of them.
As for the diffs, you need 2 output cups. Those cups are for the centershaft dogbones.
The adapters are for the drive shafts which go to the wheels.

in the FLM chassi its included 2 cups and centershaft dogbones, are they good quality or should i replace them?

Answers: I dont recomend mip centers or axles. I believe a new flm chassi comes with a rear steel dogbone if not I think they sell the right one for that application. Stock outer axles will work with hb diffs but you need the adaptor installed in the diffs so the axles will bolt up. http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...ffshaft&cat=47 or you can use a traxxas stub axle and cut it too work. If you run traxxas cvd's the cups that come with the diff might work (you need to research this though because I am not sure) If you run steel centers with hb lightning diff you need 2 8mm cups and 2 6mm cups. Realize you will need the flm hybrid bulks also for the hb diffs. edit the rear dogbone is good it will work fine.

thanks for all help. i think i have control...
a question about the shocks. there a very much differing shock thats been used in maxx built. revo stock shocks, ofnas, and many dont write which they use.
will the traxxas bigbore shocks make the truck high? i would like a low truck with stiff shocks. the truck will run very fast and it cant be to soft.
is it okey to use 4 shocks when i use RPM armas and FLM towers?
is this the ofna 1/8 shocks you guy been talking about?http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXWUK7&P=SM
or this one:http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTCJ5&P=SM
or this one:http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCWT4&P=SM

front or rear?

If you wan't to run your truck very fast it depends on if you plan on doing that onroad or offroad. Offroad speedruns with a very hard suspension aren't much fun since your truck will bounce all over the place and won't have any grip.
Since you want a low setup you should definetly get the front shocks.
I just don't get the point of first choosing the FLM chassis with higher center of gravity for bashing and then going all low with the suspension:neutral:
And it has nothing to do with which shock towers and suspension you choose if you can run a 4 shock setup.
Those would be the shocks UE sells as supershocks: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ed-Shock-Set-2
As Jamara seems to be reseller for most of Europe you might wann try to get those shocks from a local hobby shop: http://neuershop.jamara.com/index.php?a=3190&lang=eng. Those should be the same shocks but are possbily cheaper to get.
But you're most likely to need harder springs than supplied with the kit and thicker oil than what I recommended since that was for 8 shock setups.

yes you have right, its a bashtruck and i it should not be low. but whats the differente between ofnas shocks and traxxas big bore? the big bore cast 67$ for 8 shocks. and ofnas 45$ for 2.why should i choose ofnas?
you gave me a link to front shocks, but if a take the rear it will be better?
is it no risk the pressure will be pitched when i use 4 shocks? i mean the arms(RPM) are made for each 2 shocks.

I think Ofna's are a little bigger than big bores and you only need 4 ofnas if you dont plan on doing heavy jumping. I wouldnt buy ofnas new I would get them off ebay or second hand somewhere. Ofna front shock are closer to the size of stock maxx shock. I believe the rears are too long.

The rears are a little on the long side, especially since rpm a-arms dont give you many adjustment options (for ride height).

Something like these or these would be great, though the larger 16mm diameter shocks may rub on the inside of the a-arms and the drive shafts, so the 12-14mm diamter shocks would be best; 4-4.5 inches long is fine.

okey thanks. but is it okey to use 4 shocks whit RPM arms? i will not break anything?
are 4 ofna better than 8 big bore? i think i will by some of these, but help me to choose:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCWT4&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTCJ4&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSP65&P=ML

do anybody now if some a-arms are made for single shocks, like the old GM and Flextek(?)? and can i find GM arms somewhere?

Its more than ok just to use 4 shocks instead of 8, nothing will break or bend - most people just place the shocks towards the rear on the rear end, and towards the front at the front end.

I really wouldnt bother buying new shocks that have to be assembled, its alot cheaper and easier to buy lightly used shocks or brand new shocks removed from an rtr vehicle- exactly like I posted before. I would wait until you have the a-arms with you to tell what diameter shocks you can use with them- 16mm body ones are a little on the tight side I know for certain as another member used them and said they rubbed on the stock driveshafts, and had to trim the inside of the upper a-arms for clearance.

okey thanks.

what is the difference between Maxx aluminum front and rear combo bulkhead set (FLM17500 & 18500)
and
Maxx front and rear hybrid bulks (FLM17700 & FLM18700)
is it the hybrid i should choose?