It should work the same way it does @ UE

You can always use picasaweb or photobucket to host the photos for you and then link them here using the thread tool - 'Insert Image'... It's very simple.


Hope this helped
Alien

Guys we forgot he has setbacks! lol

Hi Guys!! Now that i'm done with nursing school and just finished taking my boards i can strart posting pics of my truck. Man it has taking me forever to get this done. I can't wait to show it off!!!

So i was talking to my machine friend... He goes by the name "The Dude" and is willing to make this part if a good number of people show interest in it. Mind you the one i have is a prototype but it is almost finished. I am able to mount the lower deck on to my G4 chassis and just plug and play. I currently have a 52t spur on my truck and can run everything all the way down to a 44tooth kyosho spur. The Monster CD is setup such that i can increase or decrease the length of my CDM due to the various center diffs that are out there. This was engineered in to the plate and works very well; this is what allows me to switch from fast spurs to thin ones without having any issues. Also the plate is designed so that you can use a UE mono dog bone, and a 57mm UE front dog bone; this is important in knowing because RC Alloys does not make custom bones anymore. So if your working on a project or buying parts; it's always good to know that you can complete your project without having to worry about not having the finishing pieces. Good quality pics coming in AM

Sounds interesting, look forward to the pics.

I took a ton of pics. Im loading them up to snap fish now. This is my first time so it might not work or it might come out looking bad. Once loaded on snap fish how do i get them to pop up here?

Never heard of snapfish, but it looks the same as photobucket pretty much. You should have the option to copy the link address, then just add {img} {/img} tags at the start and finish of the html to post the pictures here ( or you may have the option to copy the link addresses with the img tags on them already- either way is fine ). I would select an image size of 600x800 pixels for best results- should all be explained on the sites how-to guides/ help files.

http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...3%3B5336nu0mrjlets try again

In this pic you can see that i have all new parts still in the bags unopened and ready to finished. Usual UE stuff...
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...3%3B6336nu0mrj

Here you can see that the plate allows for the dog bones to sit perfectly with no rubbing of the upper chassis deck. They sit perfectly in the middle of the outdrives. I have a piece of fuel tubing in there so that they don't bounce around too much while racing. I am using UE 57 for the front and mono bone for the rear... this chassis does not need a mono because it is the same length as a Thunder-Mono!!
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...3%3A8336nu0mrj

Just another pic but a slightly different angle
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...2%3B7336nu0mrj

The bottom of the chassis was machined so that i can easily remove the CDM without having to take apart the entire top plate. If you were to do this mod; all you have to do is remove the four screws and the entire CDM seperates from the Center Diff Plate (CDP).
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...3%3A9336nu0mrj

Here is a pic of the four screws removed and me about pushing the plate around with my fingers.
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...8%3C2336nu0mrj

Pushing the plate is easy. there is no pressure from the top deck and i did not need to remove it in order to access the plate. Honestly once the plate is attached to the lower chassis you really don't need to move it at all. Another great thing to note about this craftmanship is this: YOU DO NOT NEED TO DRILL YOUR CHASSIS. if you notice all i used were the existing chassis mounting holes for the top deck. I will get in to this a bit further but for now check out the pic
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...8%3C6336nu0mrj

Before i start showing you pics of the plate removed i want to show you a very trick mod. On the bottom of the chassis the front brace holes are slotted. What this means is that i can make my CDM wider or narrower depending on the width of the diff being used. For example when i was using the Kyosho 44 tooth spur my center diff was much fatter. Then i decided to switch to a 50t spur that was light weight and narrower than the kyosho. As a result I needed to push together the CDM. By adding this feature i was able to remove all the slack that everyone has with their bearings not fitting correctly. My bearing now sit inside the CDM and there is no need for shims!!!!!!!!
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...8%3C5336nu0mrj

NO bearing SLOP!!!!
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...2%3B7336nu0mrj

Again no bearing slop, and you can see that the top chassis deck was slightly drilled to accomidate larger spurs. This pic shows my 50T spur with no clearance issues at all. Also you can see how clean and put together it is. You will also not that the holes in the top chassis were used to help hold down the top deck....
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...9%3C8336nu0mrj

The original chassis comes with braces that hold the top deck to the chassis. Well to improve upon this design a larger diamter piece of aluminum tubing was used and adds to the rigidity of the chassis. Here is a pic of the differences in diamter of the braces used. The stock ones are the skinny ones and the fat ones are the improved modifided versions that help tighten up and strengthen the chassis!!! I removed the plate for easy viewing...
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...8%3C3336nu0mrj
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...3C%3A336nu0mrj

After you remove the 4 bottom screws the entire CDM can be removed.
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...9%3C3336nu0mrj

Then if you remove the other 4 screws that hold the CDP, you can remove the plate.
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...2%3B8336nu0mrj

Then if you want you can connect the two again lol just for fun; more importantly though you will notice the spaces for adjustment at the front of the CDM mount.
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...%3A36336nu0mrj
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...CG%3D35365753%

another thing about the plate is that the screws are counter sunk so that it looks trick and all the edges have been machined for the professional look.
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...9%3C4336nu0mrj

G4-Maxx with CDM and CDP!!!! Any questions??
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...88935336nu0mrj
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...3C%3A336nu0mrj
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...%3A34336nu0mrj