Has anyone done the math yet on those packs?
150c 6.5a pack = 975amps true c
@14,8v = 14.430watts!!!

Hehe, you still don't get it... it's 15.0C:wink:

We are well aware of MA's inflated ratings here at RC-M, there is a whole thread about the non watercooled packs with the same ratings.

Not only is 150C/975A an inflated rating but who has a setup pulling that much power that could test it?

In reality if we can get packs that are capable of handling 200A bursts and 100A continuous it would be adequate for 99% of the setups out there. Some boat guys might be pushing more than that on large speed run boats but thats about it.

How about a pump to relieve the pressure in the cells after the puff ?

Not to mention, who here believes a 12awg wire can support that kind of current?

All of you are out of your mind if you are not jumping in line like me to get these fantastic cells at an amazing price. I for one will be removing that pesky 2009 115hp johnson ocean pro form my 20' center consol boat ASAP in favor of 6 matched packs with the cooling pumps routed through an old garden water wand set to soaker for hellcat speeds on the open seas. Make no mistake these cells have so much power you need not even use a motor just tape them to your hull and watch the water part before your very eyes!!!

So, that's how Moses did it...

Hey that's what we should call these packs. The Moses.

I understand why someone would use water cooling for the motor & esc/controller.But for batts?:no: .Seems to me maxamps is the biggest rip off of all.They was popular when they started,but I barely see anyone using their packs anymore.And from what I read in the forums throughout the years,their all about marketing & lying about the quality of their products:yes:

Not to side with MA but I think this actually makes sense. If anyone remembers when the E-revo first came out there was a lot of concern about the lipos being sealed and not getting any airflow to help keep them cool. Those concerns where justified and warranted, many people had issues including me. I modified the air intakes on the battery compartments and it helped by allowing air to flow over the batteries more easily. In a boat there is ZERO airlow and no way to get airflow. Even a fan would only circulate hot air over them. The constant current draw in a boat puts a huge load on batteries and they get warm, keeping them cooler would be better for them. However cooling batteries to mask the fact that they aren't capable isn't going to help but keeping an adequate lipo cooler should be better for it.

It would make sense if all the lipos had a cooling plate with auto on/off to maintain the lipos at its best performing temps, but it looks like only the top and bottom of the MA pack is cooled. This will cause major problems as it can make 2 cells cooler with higher IR and the middle cells will be warmer and have lower IR. Epic fail from MA and from what I mentioned before, this could and looks to be the last desperate effort from them.

Actually, if we figured up the resistence on the small leads they use on these over rated packs, the total amp load by dead shorting would be less than 975 amps.

Hmmmm.................these cells can survive the dead short test?

Anyone wanna try it? LOL

I have to disagree. If you use the correct spec lipo for your boat esc/motor/prop setup you will not need to have water cooled lipos. battery heat indicates you are placing too much load on the battery, so you either need to prop down, or use a larger/better battery, or run a 2p setup.

Water cooling may help mask a problem, but the problem is still there.

I equate this to running a feigao in a boat. They work fine, and do not get hot sue to being water cooled. But they are still in-effecient, and will not have the runtime that a neu will. The water cooling keeps them at a safe temp, but does not improve the motor design.

My freinds and I have been running the 40c sky lipos in all of our boats, 4000mah and 5000mah packs. They work great, and if your boat is setup correctly they only get up to around 115-120f after a full run.

IMO, cooling these packs would only make sense if each cell was cooled. Simply cooling the outer cells works on a 2s1p pack, but for anything else, the inner cells would heat up. Maybe if they added an aluminum plate (at least 1/16" thick) between each cell that had coolant tubes outside the pack?

But yeah, water cooling packs to maintain tolerable temps is a band-aid at best. Similar to how I feel about fans in R/C use.

But like Lutach said, lipos are fairly temperature sensitive. Too cold and they run like crap. Too hot and the life is shortened. Much easier to use a proper pack for the application.

But it doesn't apply to motors, does it? What about car motors? Do I increase the efficiency by cooling it with a fan or the magnets still dissipate the same amount or power as heat?


So what's about the perfect temperature for lipos?