More pics......

Also an alternate motor plate with heat sink fins. I'm worried about strentgh though. To get as much surface area as I can the actual meat left to hold the motor is only .100" thick.

With heat sink plate.

I'm really liking the project, myself am still in the middle of something similar.
If you don't like wheelies and want more planted stance, definitely go with motor in front flipped backwards, thats what i did, and it drives really great! still need to update a video in my build.
What esc are you planning on using?
If you are going for mechanical brakes, the motor heatsink you modeled can be thicker to clear the brakes, then you won't be worrying about strength.
planning on machining it yourself or getting it done in a machine / cnc shop?

Thanks man. I'm not planning on using mechanical brakes. My last Savage build had a problem with the brakes being too strong on the 1717. If I tapped the brakes the truck would do a violent front flip. I had to program it out on the MMM. I will use the same ESC again with the 1520.

I plan on machining some it it myself and farming the rest out. I have a bridgeport at work but I'm not the greatest.

I hope with this design, and some programming, I can get on it and the truck just takes off. Before, anything over 1/2 throttle and I was on my lid.

Regarding the dogbone issue. Why not make a custom lentgh cup at the front or rear diff? Obviously you have to have it manufactured properly to avoid unbalance and vibration... but it would give you alot of freedom when playing wit h3D drawings. You can then fiddle with standard dogbone lengths and place motor/batteries as you like.

In my truck I put the batteries far up front and low. like a G-max. works well in regards to the "no wheelies plx" :)

http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/sh...4&postcount=96
http://img.tapatalk.com/186ad8e2-1818-d3b2.jpg

So what all is needed for the 5sc center diff? Will it bolt right in? Anyone done it?