True, very true! That's like how it's acting...i want to go..um, but i'm too lazy, um maybe i will, maybe i won't.....who knows! It sucks, cuz it runs fine for a long time, then just plain gets finicky! Yesterday, i just walked up behind it and gave it swift kick in the ass(my truck)! off she went! Then died, then went, then died...

Sounds like a low volt cut off issue to me. It sounds like what happens to mine when the lipos are dumped. When my batts are dumped it never cuts out while Im still on the throttle. It cuts as soon as I let go of the throttle. Then it sits for second or until I go into reverse then starts again. It only happens to me when the batts are done though.

Try reprogramming it for NiMH and running it on your 16cell NiMH pack again. If it doesnt do it then you will know its has to do with the lipo cut off.

Maybe there is something not right w/ the low voltage cut off.

Either that, or the lipos can't sustain the voltage under heavy load and their voltage dips below the cutoff momentarily. That's why I intially recommended setting the power level to lower so the ESC would be more gentle on the batts, thereby keeping the voltage up.

I would love too! but i got rid of both sets of 16's tp pay for the LIPOS~! :(

could i try 14 cells with the 10xl?

sure, why not..............

I don't think that it is the lvc causing the problem. I've got the same problem, and I have been using the NiMH setting on the quark.

I think I remember reading in the manual that even though you pick NiMH type, if you have ever set the voltage cutoff, it will still be in effect even though you are no longer using Lipos.

Hmmm.... I remember reading that too..

Try calling Quark Direct. I had some questiions and they were very helpfull on the phone. They will help you figure it out. Im sure of it.

(310) 527-0002

Let us know what they say.

That doesn't make sense, if the LVC is in lipo mode even if you pick NIMH it would almost not run due to lower voltages, unless you run way higher voltages to overcome it. Glad i didn't jump on the bandwagon when they came out, I think i'll stick to castle and mamba at any price

That is the way it reads in the manual, but there has to be a way to return it to stock so you can use the other settings. If not Quark made a serious programing misstake :032: and should make right on it. Hopefully you wont have to send it back to get it corrected. Give them a call they have a good support line. Let us know what they say.

crazyjr: Yeah, there does seem to be a few issues with the Quark. However, if no one ever got on the bandwagon to find these issues, no one would ever know. :) I still love mine and it works great. Even though people have been having good luck with the MM, I feel a little more secure in the fact that there are quite a few more FETs on the Quark to share the current load. Would I buy it again? Maybe not now that I know how the MM works, especially for the price.

smhertzog: Yeah, the manual does read that way. It is confusing. On one hand it does say that changing from Lipo manual (and then setting the manual level) to Lipo automatic won't change the manual setting. It does not explicitly say anything about what happens when switching to NiMH though. Logic would dictate that any NiMH setting would disregard the manual cutoff settings, but you never know. So, to be sure, I'd set the manual cutoff to 2.2v. For 12 cells, the ESC should "see" that as 4s lipo. At 2.2v/cell, it will cut off at 8.8v (2.2 X 4), which is probably good for 12 NiMH cells. You'll surely see performance loss long before you get to that level. For 14 cells, it might see that as 5s, and cut off at 11v (2.2 X 5). See how that runs. If all looks good, you might then try setting the battery type to NiMH normal/high and try it again.

Interesting theory Brain, but unfortunately....no luck! It still does it. I'm almost wondering if it has something to do with the motor. If i let it sit, it'll go longer, but only if the motor gets cooler. The controller gets warm, but not bad at all. i can put my hand on it and leave it there. I can run solid for at least 15 min, then it starts when i take my finger off the throttle. Again, when i bumo the reverse or brake, it will go, and it'll go fast without cutting out at all, but the second i try to let off the throttle, BOOM it dies. If i'm in a mid roll, i bump the brake and BOOM, i'm off like a batt out of hell again!

You don't seem to have much luck with electronics do you? First the Hyperion charger, now your Quark. Maybe you should try Nitro? J/K ;)

Well, it was worth a try. It's probably some simple thing, but like all simple problems; they are only simple when you know the answer! I would take jhautz advice and give Quark a call and explain the situation. WHile you're at it, see if there is some type of "master clear" function to return all settings back to factory.

I can give that a try. Are they 24 hour? Or weekends? I'll call when i can. I just started school! Electronics, yeah. Not sure about the Quark i have though, it ran great on my 16 cells except the heat issues! The hyperion works, if the 5s is half charged already, and i can set it to 4 amps. It charged my girls 4s at 7 amps though. So i kept it. My 989 works like a champ! charges my 5s in 1hr and 32min!

thanks man. Did you talk to them about yours?:032: