I have been using this successfully for the ~5 runs on my G2R since this mod was done (and since getting my 1940/7). It has held up fine to the 1940, and hasn't caused a single problem. My spur spins respectably true.

Right now, I have my slipper set that the truck can wheelie and handle full throttle launched with no slip, however, the slightest bit more than that (me holding the truck down with my foot) and the slipper gives easily. This is my favorite setup as I like the raw feel of a constantly connected driveline but I don't want to risk the drivetrain.

Thus far, I've been using stock Revo diffs without a problem.

Just curious...in an earlier post you indicated that the spur was too far away from the motor plate. How did you address this issue? I recall that you could address it one of two ways...drilling another hole in the input shaft and adding a small plate to address the gap.

Well, what if you used a RC Monster 18T mod1 steel pinion (they also have a 5mm bore and will fit on the revo input shaft) in place of the stock emaxx 18T gear (its a mod 1 pitch too right?)? Then you wouldn't have to drill any new holes in the input shaft...just break out the dremel and flatten a small spot on the shaft and then adjust to the correct position and then red lock tite. Voila! adjustable input shaft....would it work?

BTW...the reason I ask is because I am on my last two sets of Strobe slippers and I find myself frantically looking for an alternative! What will I use when they are gone!!!!!

I did get two direct drive units from Mike that will allow me to run a center diff in place of the Emaxx tranny, but that only helps me with my FLM Emaxx trucks...not the G3R Gorilla Revo.:tongue:

It works fine, this is what I did to my tranny and have not had any issues, just make sure that the flat spot is just the right size, so that the gear cannot slide down the shaft.

Hey Linc...

Do you have any issues with the motor rotor not being long enough to reach the spur since the slipper is on the back side of the spur?

Here is my setup when I had dual motors on the G1 tranny. The only mod done to the revo input shaft was to cut the end off just like you would for any G1 mod, no additional holes had to be drilled, no weird shimming the motor plate, etc. I have not tried using any mod1 spurs only 32p/0.8m tmaxx/jato spurs. And the spur spins way more true then it ever will on an Emaxx input shaft.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/c...2/PICT0876.jpg
Note the position of the pinions and motor shaft protruding from it.

If your interested in my G1 tranny and slipper I may be talked into a trade for an FLM center diff :whistle:

Thanks for sharing the pic. That pretty much sums it up for me-I'm going to do the mod and get rid of my last two Strobe slippers and sprong.

I actually have one extra gorilla tranny myself...so I am not in the market for another at this moment. FYI...Mike should be offering the FLM Maxx center diff unit soon. I think he was just waiting to hear back from me on shaft length before he went into production on them. I have given him that info....so it shouldn't be long now.

Not really, I run 5mm shaft motors, which are not to sensitive on the pinion placement.

The pic above is slightly misleading due to the angle. It looks like the spur and slipper are closer to the tranny that they will be. I was not happy with the distance that the assy sat away from the motor plate, so I ground a small flat spot and used a 18t hardened pinion.

Good to hear about the flm center diff chassis, looks like I will be building another maxx! That would make 6!

How close can you get the spur gear to the motor plate using the Revo Slipper?

Great idea btw.

Hey sike, take a look at the new emaxx, just the same.

You could mill the cooling fins off and possibly get the spur a few mm closer, the slipperential setup in the revo that metal man made has the fins off and it sits very close, not issues with the motor shaft length there.

Looks like someone beat me to the response with the flat spot - and yes, this is possible. However, in my mind I feel much more secure with a physical pin through a hole than a simple loctite'd set screw. I understand that certain loctites are like cement, but even so, in the end its a screw, and screws eventually work their way loose.

As for the space, I just left it as is. If I turn the pinion around (set screw toward the motor with the gear toward end of shaft) it lines up without a problem. Its a 4mm shaft so I'm not worried much strength wise. 5mm shafts will be even better.

Thought I saw in this thread about the new e-maxx slipper shaft. I don't see it anymore. Does it look like that shaft would be a drop in mod or a better choice? If you can find one that is.

The new e-maxx slipper assembly looks to be identical to the revo.You can find an exploded view on the traxxas website. There are 68,65,and 62 T spurs available.I have one on order from my local modelshop (UK). I think it should be interchangeable with the revo slipper.
Here is a link to the exploded view of the new tranny:http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/3905_tranny.pdf
The shaft looks to be the same as the revo one,although there are no measurements on the PDF.
Cheers P

I just ordered one and the 62t from Buytraxxas to see if it will work. Just missed the 2 day shipping by 15min. so should get it monday. It looks real close may need to cut off some of it but like you said it was made to use the slipper clutch.

What size pinions does it use 32p or mod1?