Is there a sleave or a bushing that can be used with a 5mm pinion so that it will fit the 4mm shaft. Awhile back I bought a pinion from Mike that had that same kind of deal, a sleave that fits into the pinion which made it fit a 5mm shaft.

What is the proper name for those? And where can they be purchased from?

I believe those are called bore reducers.

I am aware there is a 6mm to 5mm one and a 5mm to 3.17mm (1/8in) but I do not believe there is a 5mm to 4mm one...

Yes, you can get a 5mm to 4mm reducer. I have a 5mm to 4mm and a 5mm to 1/8" reducer.

The only place I know of to get them is Mike. They look like a a PITA to make. I'm sure he can't be making any money on them, but he will make them for you if you request it.

I stand corrected :)

The bore reducer I got from Mike looks like it is aluminum. So, make sure your pinion grubs screws are in tight and use lock-tite because if the shaft spins inside the bore reducer, it will wear it and make the pinion wobble. Trust me, I know from experience...

Brian you are right about that. I wouldnt consider the reduceres as a permanent solution. I bought mine when I first got my 1940/7 and didn't know what gearing i was going to need. I used the bore reducer with my 5mm pinions until I figured out what the right gearing was and then I bought the correct pinion gears with the 4mm bore.

Plus in a pinch if you loose your pinion and need to run a regular 5mm pinon to get you through the day, they are nice to have.

I was talking about race conditions. Just what I found. 40 on 4S works, but 5S is better for those speeds. Just what I found.
Of course you can squeeze out almost any speed of those setups for short speed runs.

I use FPs too.

The 1950 will have twice the power of that little Novak, no worries.

I have to admit, after one hour constant running, temps of 110°F sound like a serious miracle... just look at the efficiency: If you take the amount of energy that it takes to move your revo around for one hour, and only use 5% of this as heat loss, you'll still get a hot motor. Not saying you are wrong, but from what I learned in the world of Brushless, if you run for one hour and your motor is cool like that, you're either taking breaks, or you're crawling, or you have very very low ambient temps.

110° after a one hour race? I'd love to see that in person.

Just sharing my experience, no flames please.

DAF

Like I said in the other thread.. this is excellent news and BK Electronics can officially die and burn in hell for what they've put us threw. Lehner needs to just make Mike their official Lehner dealer for North America.

+1

I agree.

Thanks you two. The info was what I was looking for. It looks like that is the real deal w/ the ESCs. I would really like to just go to 6S when a capable controller w/ good CS+support comes along, and have 3S packs to share between my trucks. 50mph is fun, but its really too much for most things, so my hope is to go 5-6S and aim for ~low 40s and be extremely reliable and cool. Any chance a Feigao (~12XL) could do this as a stop gap? Relaistically I'll be upgrading in stages.

Sorry for the hijack.

& +2 on Mike/Lehner
and Boo on BK.

And just a few years ago, I used to hear that BK has a A+ customer service.

You guys should not depend so much on the " customer service" thing.

Treat it good, treat you good!

Phhhhhh..

Every electronic component breaks eventually, esp under the condits we ask them to perform. CS/support will be one of the big things holding BL back from going mainstream. How many will tolerate (esp nitro converts) a 6mos repair turn-around on a $200+ controller that fried? You'd miss the entire driving season. RCM Mike is awesome, but he can't be expected to fix everyone's controller that breaks (or anyone's really, he a good guy for helping.)

For the various faults of the MMax (which there are few) one of them is not CS. My wife fried mine accidently, I sent it back ($5 shipping), and had a brand new one on my doorstep in 3wks w/ an apology for taking so long. :043:
No matter what I do to it, the repair fee will only be $50 once the warr expires (which is an entire year.) For this reason alone I will be hard pressed to trade it away when it worked so well for me in the 8mos I've ran it.

Just curious guys, why all the fuss about 4mm shafts? Is it gearing? Because I've had no trouble finding the proper size pinions through Mike here on the site. Just wondering what the issue is for my knowledge. Thanks.

No problem. And one other thing . . . when I first set up my system I had a 15t pinion and it was sick. Just too fast for a track. The motor and ESC were getting a little too hot for me so I went down to the 13t pinion. No problems since then, and it seems to work better for racing too. Just FYI.

I understand better now. Thanks!

I've never tried a customer service befor, though. And that does not mean I haven't fried a controller either.

Things I've fried are,

Futaba MC800 Controller.
Kontronik 6-18-40 controller.
Kontronik 10-32-55 controller.