I have a few items in already (the distributor was out of stock on some stuff). I will get some stuff listed today.

Hey Mike, I found something a lot of REVO guys may need(A little off topic but it does involve the diff) for some reason i can't do a link, but at (www.gpmracing.com.hk) i found a set of hardened steel diff gears it is (part#STRV1200) it is a 5 piece set that includes a pinion gear.I just found it and thought i would it here, if i find a place in the US that carries them i will let you know. I was wrong that is a link i didn't think it worked

couldn't find them anywhere in the US. May have to go through a distributer.

I am pretty sure the stock gears are hardened, actually(the t-maxx ones are).

Mine look like their made of brass. I stripped mine out and all i see is what looks like brass all in the diff carrier.

They are definately not Brass! O good shimming will cure your stripping diff woes!

Shimming and aluminum diffhousings will solve the diff issues (the part that houses the entire diff)

Thanks, I was refering to what it looked like. I got new diffs on the way and they will be shimmed and upgraded before going in.How much play or backlash should i shim for? Also, Which diff cups would you recomend? And what mods are nessary?

With proper shimming, the gears must not engage, they must run smooth, without resistance and with the lowest play possible to keep them smooth running..

Aluminum diffcups and housings.. Integy makes the housings, and Fastlane or the Maximizer (maximizer is the better choice, they are 7075 aluminum and are a 1 on 1 fit.. (the FLM needs some work on the shaft to make it a perfect fit)

Rene, I think it was about Revo diffs..

However, do you shim the spiders and the input pinion?

Whoooooops... My bad....... must be the time..

With my savage, i do put .2 mm thick spring metall behind the spiders.. Try it.. They engage a bit too much, but after they ran in, it results in a very strong diff (the spiders don't eat their way thru the cup that way (works with both aluminum and plastic cups)

I use shims behind the ringgear/bearing and the input pinion. (it takes some time, but it works like a charm...)

thanks alot for the help

Off topic, but FLM is including a modified spider cross pin in the diff cups now, to address the "needs slight modification" issue.
For the Revo diffs, I have only tried the Maximizer diff cups so far. I will try the 3racing cups in the near future, and FLM is making some diff cups with 3mm screws attaching the ring gear (stronger than the 2.5mm stockers, and the screws are easier to come by). Serum described shimming as I would have. As tight as possible while still being smooth. This applies to building any diff.

Good to know thanks

Okay Mike, good to know, FLM now includes the shaft!