Oh, and a question. I need another controller and I really don't want to dump another $375. Is the 16018 enough controller or should I bite the bullet and get another 22418?

Not again Aangel:slap: I don't think there's many people skilled enough to fry a controller rated for 224 amps :whistle:
But something must have been wrong with that controller to start with since it was limiting your speed. Maybe hitting the limiter or whatever it is all the time put extra strain on it?
As for what controller would be better, I'd have thought the 22418 would have been the best bet...obviously not. Maybe try and contact MGM and see what they, because it just didn't sound right. Chances are you'll get they same sort of response as last time (didn't they say you weren't programing right and there was nothing wrong?), but you'll at least need to find out if what it was doing was normal (it couldn't be though) or how to avoid doing it again.

I haven't seen any caps in the mail yet Tony.

Well, that just sucks that you fried another controller!

After hearing you say you now have fried 4 Quarks, maybe I don't want one.

My Compro 16024 has survived! It was the Big MAXXimum that died, less than a hour total run time on it (only 15 min at 6s). I threw my trusty 7XL (first big motor I got) in there and it works great; well, maybe a little less power than the Big MAXX, but esc works.
Guess I got a little more testing/tuning to do today, and a Big MAXX to send out for repair.

I thought that the 22418 would have been the way to go too. I'm really not looking forward to the 3 month wait for my Compro to get back to MGM and then back to me again.

I'm just at the point of indecision again. Do I get a Quark or the Compro. I need a controller for drag racing and the Compro is really well suited to that task, since you can set the time it takes to go from a dead stop to full throttle. When the Compros are running, we've had great success with them.

Our latest project is an XT8 running a Neu 1512/1.5Y on 20/48 gearing with a 5S lipo pack and the Compro 16016 controller and GRP Big Park tires on Axial bead locks. The fastest truck that we raced last night was a Savage running dual Serio .28 engines with the tallest gearing that he could get for the truck and a 3 speed tranny. On every run it was a toss up. The XT8 was moving with the little Neu motor. Anyway, the point is that we had the Compro set for a 1.2 second delay from a dead to full throttle. At the start all we had to do was grab a hand full of throttle and then keep the truck going straight. Racing with a Quark wasn't easy.

I suppose that I could try a 22418 one more time. I just hate the idea of paying that much money for something that you can't send back to the vendor if it isn't right.

Does electronics in general just hate you? I don't think I've seen ANYONE with the problems you have had. Both my orginal Quarks are still running fine. Granted, I'm not pulling ~400A through it, nor am I drag racing. ~1500w seems to be plenty for me. :smile: Gods, 400A would be almost 10hp @18v!

I really haven't drawn any conclusions as to what caused the meltdowns. Both controllers were running fine until I put the Neu 1515/1.5d on them. The motor may have been bad. When I received the Neu, I felt that it had been shabbily put together. The motor lead shrink wrap had breaks in it going into the motor and the leads were contacting the motor case. Although the anodized aluminum should not conduct electricity, I added some shrink to protect the leads. It may have just been built on a Friday afternoon. I'm sending all three components to their respective manufacturers for repair/evaluation.

I guess this is just what I get for trying to run a motor up to 50k rpms.

Now I need a new controller. So...what do I get? Another Quark or another Compro. If I get a Compro, do I get another 22418 or settle for the 16018?

16018 seems to be pretty solid for me. I really dont have any temp differences between it and my 16024. I personally would just go for the 16018.

I dont want to be the bearer of bad news here but.... If you were running that MGM in "race mode" when it fried, they are not going to cover it under waranty. It says so right in the instruction manual. I hope I'm wrong here.:neutral:

Why the duce would they have a 'mode' that when enabled, is not covered under warranty... that's just bad business practice, and plain rude. :tongue:

jhautz,

I wasn't running in race mode when it went, which is why I'm so surprised that it fried. I thought that the internal safeties were supposed to prevent this from happening.

So...what would you guys think of a Neu 1515/1.5d with a Compro 16018 running 5S and geared to move a 7.5lb racing truck? I'm figuring something in the neighborhood of a 18/44 gearing running 3.9" tall GRP Rally tires.

Thats good news at least.


Just Friday night i was running the 1515/2.5D on 5s and 20/46 gearing and the GRP 3.9" tires in my 8.5lb buggy. I was able to run an entire 5000mah pack non stop on a parking lot oval course (Full throttle, hard brake, turn, repeat...) and at the end of the pack the motor was 140F and the MGM 16018 was 99F. It was about 75 degrees outside. So the ESC wasn't even working hard. BUT... I had the spool up speed set the .69 sec If I went less than that I got cut outs every time I punched it. Even at .69 sec I got the occasional cut out. At 1.3sec spool up timing there was no cutting out at all.

You will be drawing more amps with the 2700kv motor vs my 1700kv motor, but I think heat wise there should be plenty of head room based on the very low temps I was getting. The only question I have is the cut out issue. Will the higher kv motor make that happen more frequently?

jhautz, I'll be sure to let you know what Neu says about the motor. I was definitely having problems running the 1.5d, but I was also having problems running the 8L. I'm hoping that it was the controller.

I may just abandon the whole 2700kv thing all together. I may just stick with the 2.5d geared at 20/46 and run 6S lipo. I need to order another pack for the truck anyway. I loaned my buddy my brand new Neu 30C 4.1Ah 5S pack last night and he had a pretty bad cart wheel incident. The spur chewed the side of the battery.

I'm thinking of going with a flightpower evo 3700 6s. I just wonder if the 3700 will have the nuts to run the system.

AAngel,

I think I would stick with the 22418, maximum amps.

Update on my 16024; It would still cut out under hard acceleration in "cut off" mode and less in "reduce rpm" mode running the 7XL. It seems to run great in "race" mode though!

The controller software said I had a max rpm of 56,000 and max 420 amps. Of course it says in instructions that the amps value will not be accurate and is just to be used for comparison, but the rpm is accurate. It also said the temp was about 150, though the heatsinks were only warm. It must measure that at or near the fets.

Now I guess I have to get a Neu.

I just got two 22418 MGM's (one for me and one for a buddy) and both were to be in 1/8 buggy using a Neu 1515/1.5D ... anyway, on 3s Lipo it was doing fine .. but when on 6s .... white smoke and that sweet smell of buring electronics ... So like AAndel there, I said it could be the Neu motor so I used another motor that works just fine with a Quark 125 ..... long story short ... both are fried now :( .. ohh yeah and that was over about a WHOLE 3min of using the ESC ....

I hope to God they fix it or do something .. because those things are not cheap.

Az

MGM is good about repairing the esc. Just mail them back and they will fix them for free. It just takes about 2 months.

Did you change your gearing a lot for when you used 6s?
6s on a 2700kv motor is close to 60 000rpm. That's going to put a lot of strain on most esc's, especially if it's over geared.
What was the other motor? That's some bad luck. Should be a lot harder to kill the MGM than the quark.