Hope they'll sell the clutch adapter as a single part, would make converting a truggy way easier!

What makes it easier? there are hardened pinions.. don't see the 'easier' part.

"easier" on the glue between magnet and shaft!?

A clutch on a direct drive conversion would at least remove the magnet as the weak link.

Daf

Not to get too off topic....but you guys have had great results with the new crop of hardened pinions and metal Spurs? My experience with the Century and early RCM hardened pinions was a disaster.

And I think the Clutch *may* help to shelter both the drivetrain and the motor from moments of over-torque. I had been betting on the RCM slipper-diff-whatever-it's-called as that strain relief but if the clutch provides it, great. I just don't know enough about nitro clutches, when they are fully engaged, will they slip?

DM

the new pinions rule. they seem to last for ever.

I did some weight comparisons, of my lipo's

8000mah 3s 560g
2 5000mah 2s lipo's (maxamps) 500g
3300mah flightpower 4s 370g
3700 4s flightpower 4s 390g
2500 flightpower 5s 335g

I'm not liking his recomendation of a 3s lipo, but if it works for him. I prefer higher voltages, so i checked some weights. I think the 3300 would be the lowest i'd go unless i had a Neu, then the 2500's would be possible, based on the efficiency

I'm actually thinking that the clutch adapter thing might make it a little easier to drive for someone coming from a nitro background. A little less hard hitting on the torque cuz the clutch will grab a little softer than the a direct drive. Like the latest RC Driver 1/8 comparison says "electric and nitro take very different driving styles to be successful on the track". I'm thinking a conventional clutch would help move it toward the more forgiving throttle style used with nitros. I have actually thought about how this would work in the past, but never actually thought about doing it. If they sell the clutch adapter by itself I might pick one up to play around with. It is definitely different and has me a little intrigued.

The conversion kit also looks the most "factory" of all of the kits I have seen. Good to see more and more people getting into the game.:yes: Its only a matter of time before a major brand launches something designed for brushless and lipo from the ground up!

Thanks for the feedback Serum. So, in your opinion, the main issue with the clutch is from a maintenance point of view more so than performance? As I stated I'm the beneficiary of having Tekno run at my local track and having run this setup myself. I did mention to them early on that the clutch setup might be a tough sell to those already converted brushless veterans such as those on these boards. Much of the advantages of clutch tuning can be accomplished now with firmware/software adjustments of the newer controllers (i.e. CastleLink). But I can see where there is an advantage to having the clutch. The first being (not in the case of the REVO) the absence of a slipper in 1/8 applications. And - as you already pointed out - it allows the motor to "spool up" before engaging thus reducing potential for cogging. As far as maintenance - I also asked about that and interestingly enough the truck you see in the two videos I linked are running the same clutch assembly throughout the entire testing period - which I would guess would be about 10 race programs and perhaps a couple dozen packs in between.

since the stock revo has a very decent slipper it makes no sence to add a 2nd one. (in the clutch)

If you think you need a clutch with electric/the brushless motors we use you don't get the point of electric. since they talk about the 'no cogging' part i think they where into brushless 10 years ago and didn't bothered to test the latest setups, since there is 0 cogging. the maintanance is just another negative thing about it.

One thing that no one has brought up is reverse capability with the clutch setup. I think using this setup could be the way to go on 1/8 scale buggies. It will allow front/rear brake bias and still give you rever..... wait, no it won't, because the mechanical brakes will still be engaged while the motor tries to spin backwards. Unless..... nope... adjusting the ABS on the transmitter would affect the breaking servo and the speed control at the same time. Ok, well this was a waste of space:lol:

I have a thought (dun-dun-dun). I have seen (somewhere) a clutch bell that has interchangeable 'gears' (the toothed part I guess), which allows for gearing changes without removing the whole clutch from a nitro engine. Now, say you used the Tekno RC clutch adaptor, fitted the afforementioned clutch, but filled the clutch part with JB weld -welded it up solid basically-. My thinking is that this would allow you to use different sized clutch 'pinions' to alter gearing, the advantage being you didnt have to buy lots of expensive (but brilliant none the less) mod 1 pinions to find your perfect ratio, but instead you could use the no-doubt cheaper interchangeable clutchbell 'pinions', and still have motor braking & reverse. Just a thought anyway...

Had the same thought myself, but you can only use them in forward, cause reverse will unscrew the pinion from the clutch bell. And it will be 3-4 times the weight of a std pinion gear, and longer too. I had an adapter made up to use the nitro 4tec gears on it, so gearing choices would be possible, never used it though.

Hmm, bummer. Back to the drawing board then....

It could be used on a forward only conversion with mechanical brakes.

Aye, I had that thought too. If only there was some way to stop the 'pinion' from unscrewing..... pah, matters not.