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-   -   Modified Tekin R1Pro (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13169)

slimthelineman 09.06.2008 12:47 AM

GriffinRU in your first post in this topic there were some strips of copper? what were these for? if you dont want to say it cool i was just curious, seemed like alot of extra metal.

BlackedOutREVO 09.06.2008 02:00 AM

Heat spreading... They displace heat better then normal.

Try it! Would be a awesome esc, and perfect car to try it in, nice light-ish buggy

Kajman 09.13.2008 12:33 PM

any idea these currents tekin gives for r1pro - how long it can handle it? I want to know how much current it can handle for 2500 or 5000mAh as germans give numbers.

lutach 09.13.2008 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kajman (Post 212098)
any idea these currents tekin gives for r1pro - how long it can handle it? I want to know how much current it can handle for 2500 or 5000mAh as germans give numbers.

They said it was 200A, but those are just from going by the MOSFETs datasheet.

Kajman 09.13.2008 01:16 PM

that won't tell you truth... I don't lnow why in th US there is a funny way of giving info: Current-more than you can handle or no limit ;) Or numbers which are valid for 1s. f.e. Real life is driving for about 4000-5000mAh lixx battery, so there should be mentioned number, how much current can ESC handle.

JeffEmbracedDC 09.14.2008 01:25 PM

Is there any reason I can't use an R1 for the same application or is it necessary to use the R1Pro?

-Jeff

Kajman 09.14.2008 01:28 PM

For what aplication?

tc3_racer_001 09.14.2008 04:27 PM

4s buggy with 1512 2D in texas.

DRIFT_BUGGY 09.14.2008 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffEmbracedDC (Post 212482)
Is there any reason I can't use an R1 for the same application or is it necessary to use the R1Pro?

-Jeff

The R1 has a Motor Limit of 5 Turn Brushless (36mm can)

jhautz 09.15.2008 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffEmbracedDC (Post 212482)
Is there any reason I can't use an R1 for the same application or is it necessary to use the R1Pro?

-Jeff

Quote:

Originally Posted by tc3_racer_001 (Post 212539)
4s buggy with 1512 2D in texas.

R1 has half the fets of a R1Pro. (2 power boards vs 1 I believe) For 1/8 the pro is necesary IMO. I would compare the R1 to the Sidewinder and the R1Pro to the MM as far as power handling. However I like the feeling of the Tekin throtle and brake better than the MM. The MM however is easier to mount a fan on the heatsink to coo it in a heavy load situation. The Tekin controllers dont have heat sinks and arent easy to mount fans on. I sucessfully ran my buggy on the stock R1Pro for quite a while before getting the modified one from Artur. But I only ran it on 5s using a Hacker 11xl, Neu 1512/2.5d and a Neu 1512/3D. I have no 4s data to share with you. I would think the setup you mentioned would be fine for the R1Pro.

cheesecake 09.16.2008 01:23 AM

how would a teken r1 pro do in a truggy on 5s with a neu 1515 2.5d im thinking of getting one for the and i was going to find a way to mount a fan on it

ffactory666 09.16.2008 03:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheesecake (Post 213076)
how would a teken r1 pro do in a truggy on 5s with a neu 1515 2.5d im thinking of getting one for the and i was going to find a way to mount a fan on it

I can't comment fully , but i have run my R1 Pro with 35v cap and external bec in my X2 truggy with no problems , set up similar to yours 5s , Medusa 1600kv motor. However it was winter over here and i only ran it a couple of times for around 10mins each time and heat was no issue .
Didn't want to push it fully as i bought the R1 to run in my buggy which is on it's way ( Hot Bodies D8:yipi:) but while waiting for my MMM v2 to arrive i thought i would give it a little run in the truggy .

If you could get a fan on it i don't think you will have any problems . You could use a piece of thin alloy mount the R1 Pro to it then bend it up to face the solder tabs , then attach a fan to the alloy which is facing the solder tabs ( nearly did this in the truggy while waiting forever for the MMM ) .

cheesecake 09.16.2008 04:11 AM

im going to have to order one and see what i can do

DRIFT_BUGGY 09.19.2008 04:32 AM

Is the power cap in Mikes Store good for the R1 Pro running 5S 1512 2.5D?
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...=35vcap&cat=21

Kajman 09.19.2008 04:37 AM

any updates to relase time of rx8?

DRIFT_BUGGY 09.19.2008 05:19 AM

How is everyone mounting the fans to the R1 Pro?

jhautz 09.19.2008 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRIFT_BUGGY (Post 214158)
Is the power cap in Mikes Store good for the R1 Pro running 5S 1512 2.5D?
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...=35vcap&cat=21

Id run 2 of those I am running a single 2200mfd. I think Mike is using a single 1800mfd.

jhautz 09.19.2008 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRIFT_BUGGY (Post 214164)
How is everyone mounting the fans to the R1 Pro?


Not easy to do. Just find a way to mount it so it blows on the solder posts. It probably wont be attached to the esc itself. More likely attached to something else and pointedat the esc. Not much room to work with mounting on the little guy.

DRIFT_BUGGY 09.19.2008 03:19 PM

Would one of these work?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...Max=&SUBCATID=

ffactory666 09.19.2008 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRIFT_BUGGY (Post 214243)

No good , you need a 35v and at least 1800uf .
I posted a link which i can't find for you :oh:
Get the 35v cap from Jaycar , they only come in 1000uf so buy two and run them in parallel for 2000uf , make sure it's the low esr radial cap when you ask :wink:


Mounting a fan , just bend a piece of thin alloy 90o .Place the esc on it and then face the bent bit towards the solder posts , mount the fan to this and you will have it blowing at the solder posts .

You can make the bottom part of the alloy a bit wider and drill some mounting hole in it while having the esc attached to the alloy some how , maybe double sided tape and a zip tie for security .

Kajman 09.22.2008 03:10 AM

How do you compare MMM to R1Pro? Drive feelings? I can see you have both of them.

DRIFT_BUGGY 09.22.2008 03:24 AM

Alot of people say the R1 Pro has smoother throttle

ffactory666 09.22.2008 06:07 AM

R1 is smoother and has much better brakes going by guys who have used both .

jhautz 09.22.2008 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ffactory666 (Post 215165)
R1 is smoother and has much better brakes going by guys who have used both .

Yep.

The best way I can describe it is the R1Pro just feels more precise.

brushlessboy16 09.23.2008 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhautz (Post 215179)
Yep.

The best way I can describe it is the R1Pro just feels more precise.

wow that says alot, i just ran my MMM, and it is verysmooth at low rpm:yes:

jhautz 09.23.2008 06:06 PM

Low RPM isnt necessarily what I meant. I can drive either one of them around at a crawl. I mean more the midrange power just feels smother. The MMM seems to have a harsher feeling mid range. I just feel like the tekin has a little more refined feeling midrange power band. Which on the track is really what matteres. Not to often I am crawling around the track.

Its possible that you might be able to tune the MMM with the throtle curve tool in the software, but I dont really use that. I just run linear on mne and if I want to add some exponential to soften the bottom end for a slippery track I usually just do it from the radio rather than the esc software.

Dont get me wrong the MMM is still a very smooth esc. No cogging issues or anything like that. Both are very nice. Just not exactly the same.

brushlessboy16 09.23.2008 06:17 PM

ohh alrighty, i run my MMM on 5s, do you think the r1pro is a worthy adversary?

Kajman 09.24.2008 01:14 AM

Yeah, how much power should r1pro take by 6s a123 (19,3v)? Will I be able to run 1000W motor (Kontronik Kira 600) with it (sure without BEC)?

brushlessboy16 09.25.2008 06:43 AM

should be fine :D

Kajman 09.26.2008 03:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16 (Post 216028)
should be fine :D

Should I use any low esr 35v capacitor or f.e. novak has some minor advantages? How big should I use?

Kajman 09.30.2008 02:33 AM

Another question, Will Redline Motor work on 4s A123 in a 2,2kg buggy? Or it will get too hot?

snellemin 09.30.2008 10:56 AM

I had used a 448 tekin motor and it got hot pushing a rustler around running on 4s A123.

Kajman 09.30.2008 11:14 AM

Yeah, thanks, it seems that with 4wd heavier buggy it will not work.

Kajman 10.13.2008 01:16 PM

I just got my firs R1Pro, any ideas when using current limiter how many lamps are how many ampers??

suicideneil 10.14.2008 11:49 AM

An amp is an amp, 1000milli-amps is 1 amp. What is this obession with current limiters- they will only hurt your top speed, and any decent/ accurately rated esc shouldnt need one. If you fry the esc due to excessive current draw, then the setup was all wrong, so that needs looking at rathe than trying to stunt the power the esc/motor can produce...

BrianG 10.14.2008 11:54 AM

I wouldn't mind a current limiter. It would act as a disaster device in the event something went wrong (motor lock, ESC malfunction) and would help to at least limit chances for fire and save the battery. It's too bad there wasn't a fuse available that would be small enough, and not drop too much voltage under normal running currents...

Kajman 10.14.2008 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suicideneil (Post 222407)
An amp is an amp, 1000milli-amps is 1 amp. What is this obession with current limiters- they will only hurt your top speed, and any decent/ accurately rated esc shouldnt need one. If you fry the esc due to excessive current draw, then the setup was all wrong, so that needs looking at rathe than trying to stunt the power the esc/motor can produce...

But a lamp is not an amp. Tekin uses LAMPS, f.e. GM uses AMPS when talking about current limits. So one who buys Tekin has to ask about how lamps correspond to amps :rules:

There is no obsession, this is technology going forward. It is better to have limiter onboard, you can alway turn it off, but when there is none, it won't work even if you ask on on your knees. Current limiter alows you to set your power according to track, not even touching one screw to change motor, gearing and so on. You can influence your power and torque simply using one button, which protects your batteries, engine and esc by the way. Nothing special at all, really. But if you use it for some time you will see how good it is. Somebody who didn't use it won't know it.
Funny (not really) but today my R1Pro put for test on my onroad drove 2 minutes and started to have problems by full power, I am very, very dissapointed with this ESC at the moment. I set limiter half way, some usuall 2s2p liion pack with 60Amps continuos with mild 4.5T motor and gearing 11.5:1 and Tekin dies.... I really don't know what to think....

razo125 11.14.2008 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU (Post 186596)

Any update on when we can order a custom case? And what is that soldered to the bottom of the positive and negative post? I'm guessing it's an extra low ESR cap. What is the rating?

Arct1k 11.14.2008 01:51 PM

The chip underneath is a transient supressor and the the extra leads are for a cap normally a 35v 2200uf or 25v 2700uf depending on voltage

DRIFT_BUGGY 11.14.2008 03:22 PM

Tekin have a Aluminum Case for the R1 coming out, not sure how far away though


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