The two designs are radically different. An inrunner is better suited to higher rpms, has a lower pole count, and thus does not require the esc to "fire" as many times per rotation. Most escs are limited to the number of times they can fire, so most cars will use an inrunner coupled to a grear reduction device (trans and/or diff) to produce more torque. The stator is light weight, and drive is taken off the center shaft.

An outrunner usually has more than 8 poles, and more rotating mass. They are spun at a slower rpm, and are generally used to direct drive airplane props. They require the esc to fire many times during one rotation, and thus have a lower max rpm, somewhere arounf 20k rpm for most 28-42 sizes. Drive is taken off the outer can or the center shaft, which is bearing supported at one end. They make more torque, but spin slower, so they have a different gearing requirement than an inrunner.

Inrunners will always be more popular for conversions as their operating speeds are very similar to the nitro engine so similar gearing can be used. 4 pole designs like the neu come closer to providing more torque while still retaining the higher operating speeds, and lightweight rotating components.

sweet, learn something new every day :lol:

Any Updates?

I have a few words for ya

1- GREAT Write up !
2- Great build with pics-n-info
3- Great looking Baja :yipi:

Wow I missed this one metalman, thing looks sick man!! I love it!

Thanks guys!

Much has happened with this truck. For starters, it got a rear sway bar a while back, with a design similar to what is used in CORR trucks.
After repeated use the screw holding the lower links to the chassis (can't see it 'cuz it's hidden by the blue spacers) would bend. So I built a beefy lower link mount.
I messed around with the suspension a bit, mainly just the rear suspension, and now it's riding on XTM white springs and I think 15wt. oil. Up front I swapped the shocks to Traxxas Big Bores with Trinity blue springs (cut down) and around 45-50wt. oil.

The body was painted, and now has begun to fall apart. Let's just say this truck LIKES to roll. However, a coworker of mine who is a great driver suggested I lose the rear swaybar because of oversteer, so this is definitely contributing to some of the body roll.

It's kinda sad that I haven't driven this truck in a good month or so, to work on improving its capabilities. Besides, I've got a belt-drive truggy conversion that has been taking up most of my RC time :yes:

HUGE Redesign/Rebuild
 

Hey all,
This truck underwent an entire rebuild of the chassis, where the CG was dropped significantly. Instead of an outrunner it now has a Medusa 36-60-1600 (from my Jammin' X1-CRT) and a slipper clutch using a MT2 slipper shaft and Revo slipper clutch components. With the redesign the driveshaft angles are much better and the lower link mounting is a lot stronger.

I had already driven it but decided it would be a good idea to tear it down and do a little cleaning, so here are the build pictures:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8505.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8507.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8512.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8514.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8519.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8520.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8527.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8528.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8533.jpg

And some overall shots:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8534.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8536.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8538.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_8540.jpg

On pavement it still traction rolls quite a bit. Might need to lose the rear sway bar and invest in a front one.

Does look somewhat lower/ flatter/ whatever than the previous version.

Q. how tough is that lexan? for making parts like that, cant help thinking it might be brittle and snap if flexed too much?..

with the load being applied on the smaller/thinner faces and not applied on the larger faces. it'll take a HUGE load to snap it. (i hope you can understand this cuz i cant explain it haha)

The polcarbonate won't snap, but it can crack. Part of the reason for the redesign was to distribute the load along the chassis a bit better because there were stress cracks forming around the tapped holes in the vertical plates on the old chassis. This new chassis offers more flexibility where it counts, but is still quite rigid.

Think of how much your lexan bodies can take without permanent deformation.

pretty good work
Any details on how you got the front diff drive to work in there ?

I love Polycarb but you may want to consider Delrin, easy to cut, heat bend, light weight. I like it better than aluminum in many cases.

What kind of suspension does it get ?

Cool creation :yes: