ON that motor 5s lipo is not enough. You have not seen the power and torque of the motor yet. with the 10s it will be a monster. You got to love brushless.

Etraxxer- what is they kv rating on it also how much do one of those beasts cost(maybe i dont want to know)

2240 14 t is 1057 kv and price is about $400. Mike can get it a little cheaper I think. You have to make your own mount and it take 4 mm screws to attach it to mount.

then the price is not as bad as i thought and how hard is it to make your own mount for an emaxx(sorry im i getting off topic)

its not to hard really...

could someone send me a few pics of there setup after hearing the price it might become a possibility

I know this topic is not fresh, but anyway:

This is One Nice Savage! My favourite Savy conversion so far!
The shocks, the FLM stuff, the MOTOR, the LIPOS, everything! I love it!

we all must see a viid of that beast:043:

i cant wait to see it in action

What are you doing for a steering setup? From the looks of it your batteries are where the stock steering servo once was...

if you read the thread, it was brought up that he had the batteries in the front but there really in the rear were the engine use to be.

Etraxxer Have you got that video yet? I haven't heard what you think of the truck yet. How has it been holding up for you?

it is possible that he tore a hole in the universe and was sucked into a blackhole upon full throttle 10S acceleration...

Sounds like a reasonable excuse to be late at a date..

as i read on this thread that savy just getts better and better!
VIDEO PLEASE
WHERE ARE YOU!!

Time to Ressurect this thread, as well as my passion for this hobby. I suddenly quit 2 years ago and don't really know why, I sort of just got sucked into black hole! I have an HPI Baja 5B now (which is awesome) that I run occasionally, but I really want to see this project finished. The way I went around making this, I cut a few corners. This time around I'm not going to do that. The motor mount won't have any plastic incorporated into it like before, and I still have to find some way to protect the spur from being ripped in two. Finishing this is part of my new year's resolution. I have to finish it, I just have to! Since I last posted, it hasn't gotten a single run, it's still just a baby.. THE POWER MUST BE UNLEASHED! :surprised:

Overall, the concept, general layout, and idea is great (in my opinion) but I have to improve the execution. From the top of my head I have to:
-Find a better way to mount the LST shocks, the current way is much too loose and weak for my liking.
-Give it the full stainless steel screw treatment
-Create a new motor mount system that is more sturdy
-Create a better center slipper and mount (diff maybe? probably not)
-Tighten up the suspension in general (the top A-Arms are needing of adjustment particularily)
-Figure some way to protect the innards of the truck (I'm thinking of a thin sheet of lexan)
-Refamiliarize myself with the electronics and tech behind the project in general.

I'll be revisiting this project and thread soon enough, my first agenda is to design a new motor mount, possibly getting it machined professionally. I'll try to keep you updated.

Well, I have good news, and bad news.
I designed a somewhat simple motor mount on some free CAD software (eMachineShop), and I got some quotes. Lowest I can seem to get is around $150-$200 US for a single production. So, it seems that getting it milled is pretty much out of the equation. I think I will just have to try and fabricate it myself (grrr), unless somebody knows somebody/someplace that could do it for cheap. It's not too complex of a piece, 1cm thick, milled out to 5mm around the motor, with 9 motor holes. I'll post some pictures of it when I get home.

I would have said Mike normally, but since he is permanently busy... maybe Dafni or the Candyman even- he has verical mill & rotary table, and makes awesome stuff from lumps of metal.

Well, here are the pictures. It's a pretty cheap program, but this would be a basic mockup. I think I am going to purchase Solidworks or Autocad, and then I can draw in there. The mount is 10mm thick, and the place where the motor would be placed is milled out 5mm.

Front:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...untSSFront.png

Back:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...ountSSBack.png


I think I may, after the purchase of a better CAD program, just create my dream of a project, my own TVPs, slipperential, battery mounts, etc through CNC. I think I may just go with a simple motor mount for now untill then though, just to get it running.

Thanks!

Edit: You also may notice that there is 0 adjustability on the mount itself. I have a way to adjust it, but it is a surprise!
Edit 2: Uh oh, I just bought Solidworks Student Edition for $90! Looks like I'm going to end up designing my own TVPs, TVP braces, Slipperential, ESC/radio tray, etc. Might as well continue to go full out on this project, right? This is going past insanity.. I think..

Solidworks finally came in the mail, I just have to learn how to use it! :oops:
I have some good ideas in my head that I can't wait to draw down for everyone to see, I just have a few questions..
In a slipperential setup, will a Revo slipper be able to handle the abuse I'm going to put it through, or should I try a sprong slipper sort of setup? I've also seen that new single piece slipperential, which looks promising.. but would that be able to handle the power?
I'm also planning on extending the chassis even more than the FLM one is (probably another 30-40mm), does anyone know of any bodies that won't look goofy?
Thanks!

The Revo slipper worked well on my "slipperential" with a 7XL and 5s2p, when I had that Revo. To my knowledge noone has used a slipperential with much more power than that, and few people have them (since they are designed for racing).

Hmm.. I think I'm going to give it a shot then. I can't see the diff being the weak link.. the slipper would probably go out first, wouldn't it?

I can say that the revo slipper is pretty tough. If you are going use it for acceleration limiting like 10th scale it will wear quickly. But if you are using it for gear/drivetrain protection you should be ok (slipper set reasonably tight). I have metalman's old revo with the slipperential and it works fine for me. I am actually going to hold off on my other revo project until the center diff with the integrated slipper is released. That looks like the most promising method to me!

Thanks for the input. I'd like to be able to use that new slipperential, but I fear that the lack of extra spur gears/gearing options could cause a problem for me. I may just hold off to see how durable/how well it works though.

The lack of gearing is a good point. I will use an outrunner so I will have a slower turning, higher torque motor. The lack of gearing will not cause me too much of an issue due to that motor choice. The std slipperential with the added gear reduction works well. If I made one for myself, I would use a 46t diff gear, as it would affort more space for a similar sized spur gear, that would not contact the diff output on the slipper side of the assembly. I usually run 46t spurs (modified mgt spurs to fit the revo slipper).

I think I'm going to first go with a standard slipperential with a revo slipper, this will allow me to put the motor in a good distance above the driveline. It will also allow me to use a somewhat crazy idea to adjust the gear mesh (not having to move the motor to adjust it). I wish I could explain it with words, but I'll have to draw it to explain. On to Solidworks tutorials! :party:

Just doing some gearing calculations, and I was wondering what I should aim for to be the final reduction ratio with my setup?

Not sure, what motor, batterys, etc are you planning on using. I usually aim for around 35k rpm motor speed, and 40mph vehicle speed. You are going to use the revo spur gears, correct? So you have 36, 38, 40t spurs and pinions from 25t down to whatever will fit without having part of the gear reduction assembly contacting with the motor.

I'm using an LMT 2240 14t (1057 KV) on either 8s or 10s lipo, 40 series Moabs. Using BrianG's calc I can get anywhere from 10:1 to 20:1 fairly easily, but is there a way to calculate the optimum ratio for my truck?

Somewhere between 15:1 and 17:1 looks good. That would be pinion/spur of 18/40 (primary) and secondary of 20/46 for 10s lipo. For 8s lipo you could do 20/40 primary ratio

Alright thanks! I think I have a good pinion selection for the 14:1-17:1 range if I go with a Revo-style slipperential, which is probably going to be my route.

I now have another question (which is somewhat unrelated), but does anyone know if Brushless setups have regenerative braking like Hybrid cars do? Reason I'm wondering is because I'm thinking of using mechanical brakes for the bias (and to have less strain on the motor/esc), but if there would be a noticable decrease in runtime, I'd veto it. I'm assuming that regenerative braking hs something to do with mechnical brkes on a hybrid car, and wouldn't be applied to this scale of a system, but just wondering.

Also, how many amps does a normal radio setup pull? By "normal" I mean dual steering servos and a reciever. And if I use an external BEC, wouldn't it put a bit more strain on the batteries than if I used a seperate reciever pack? (might seem random, I know, but I just want to know if I should get an external BEC or not, rather use a reciever pack if there is a difference).

:neutral:

They do have a form of regerative braking. I would say that you may have issues finding a car esc that can handle 10s lipo? Do you have one in mind?

You may have issues fitting the brake disk on the end of the slipperential assemble that the slipper and spur is on. You may have to put that disk on the diff case.

I would suggest a castle creations bec. Very light, and small, and adjustable with the castle link, plus it has plenty of power to run a pair of servos (or 10 if you want). It works alot better than a rx pack, as the voltage is rock solid all of the time. Plus you never need to charge it!

I already have the Brushless system. The ESC I have that I'm going to use is a BK 36120 Car. It was top of the line when I got it 2 years ago! :oh:

This is true, I'm sure I'll find someway to make it fit though.

Alright, I'm sold! I'll pick one (or two) up on my next trip to my LHS. Hopefully they'll have em. If not I'll get em from Mike! :yes:

The castle bec has a maximum input voltage of 26v, so if your going to use more than 6s I'd look for a different one.
The UBEC Mikes sells can take 40v, so I don't know if 10s right off the charger will be too much. http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...=6vubec&cat=21 Out of stock of course.
I think dimension engineering makes some even higher voltage ones, but I've never looked into them.

Ah, thanks for the heads up. I'll still pick up one for my CRT though.

So it looks like I'm going to get a miniature mill next month. I'm now planning on doing all/most of the drawing in Solidworks, then printing out templates for me to mill the pieces manually. If I was going the CNC route like I originally intended, I'd spend a comparable amount of money for a one time deal, so I think that this is the better choice. Sure the CNC parts would look nicer, but getting a mill would allow me to expand on the design/repair/change the design(s) without costing me a fortune.
I have a question though.. does anyone know which parts are used in the Slipperential that Mike used to sell for the G3 Revo. I see it has the revo slipper, then an idler gear of sorts? If anyone knows, it'd be helpful.

Thanks!

I am going to guess, that unless he made his own slipper shaft, it is a revo input shaft, al of the revo slipper components, a 20t pinion that is affixed to the shaft somehow.

My revo uses the input shaft, I ground a flat area on the shaft, where I wanted the pinion to stay. I then used an al tube to keep the shaft centered between the bearings. It just fits between the pinion and the rear bearing.

This might prove useful possibly.

That is very helpful, thank you!

My birthday is tommorow (or today by forum time, I think, :lol:) and I think I am going to have enough money from presents and such to get a miniature mill so I can get started on finishing this thing. I haven't been learning as much Solidworks as I'd like to, but I've been really busy this month. I am going to have a lot more time next month, and can really start bearing down on this project to get it running! :yipi:

I'll be watching this thread.